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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 3:51 am
Posts: 34
This may help...
http://secondnaturecycling.wordpress.co ... eur-setup/


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Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:01 pm 
  • 14.90 € (including 19% VAT)
  • 59 components


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:57 pm 
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Posts: 202
Thanks for the link

I found the dealers manual eventually, and the set up for the FD has to be one of the most complicated things I've seen! Having to use that tool to turn the 'converter' on or off. I'm sure it helps the functionality of the FD, but I'm sure they've over complicated a simple item!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 7:01 pm 
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FourRings wrote:
This may help...
http://secondnaturecycling.wordpress.co ... eur-setup/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Right......it will help you do it wrong! He talks about adjusting the FD using the barrel adjuster instead of the upper and lower limits! Probably a typo, but why bother have someone else read the manual, and then transcribe it incorrectly into his blog for you to read. Just use the actual Shimano manual:

http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-FD0002-03-ENG.pdf


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 7:23 pm 
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Even better :D


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 7:25 pm 
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Bet me to it, I was just about to post the link!

If it helps anyone else here's the link to the manuals for all things Shimano.

http://si.shimano.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 2:18 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 8:25 pm
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Location: UK
The 9000 / 6800 front mechs are a step back IMO. I had 7800 / 6700 set up with no rub in any gear in the big ring, this is impossible with 9000 / 6800 and you are forced to use the trim function. Also the cable tension has to be very high for it to work. Yes the action is lighter than before, but Shimano could have easily solved no trim... A deliberate push towards electronic I feel.

Shifters, brakes and rear mech are nice though.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 2:54 am 
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Then you haven't set it up correctly. I've installed a bunch and if you follow the manual to the letter there is no rub and shifting is amazing.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:04 am 
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^ +1

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Cervelo R3

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=125962


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 5:05 am 
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Location: UK
I have followed the dealer instructions, including trying both cable positions, on two different bikes. The cage looks very narrow where it rubs and the manual does show (need for) trim.

Any advice appreciated.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 5:57 am 
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It requires the cage to be absolutely parallel to the rings. To check run your finger along the surfaces. As well, the spacing above the rings is important. It did take me a few tries before I got it right on my first install. It requires very precise positioning according to the manual. That all I can tell you.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:29 am 
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Berg wrote:
I realize some brand purist frown upon such as mixed marriage, but for me it makes sense to pick the best from each brand and combine if possible. And IMHO the weak link in Campa group is the FD, which is why I decided to try the Shimano FD9000.

In any case, after about 2200 km, here is my conclusion:
It works absolutely perfectly! Best front shifting I have ever had. Period. :thumbup:

Every shift has been smooth both up and down, and have not had a single missed shift or any other issues.
This is with Stronglight 11 chainrings, in 34-50 and 36-50 combo. The 36-50 is of course a little smoother, because of the smaller jump, but 34-50 also worked perfectly for a week in the Mallorca mountains.

As I wrote in the original post:
It takes 3 clicks to shift up, and the first click I can use for trim while on small ring.
On big chainring, there is only a bit of rub on derailleur when chain is all crossed up - a gear I would never use anyway.

One thing though: I removed the small black plastic piece inside the derailleur cage (as "DMF" has pointed out, it is low quality and fits very poorly!) as it didn't do any good at all!

Hurray for good FD shifting 8)

Weak point?? I would have agreed with you a while back as I was using SR11 with Extralite cranks & TA Rings. Having ditched the crankset in favour of a SR11 I have to admit it was the chainset not the FD that was the weak link. My SR11 works exactly as you describe now. So I can only surmise that your set up is compensating for your choice of rings. Nowt to do with Vicenza's FD!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 8:18 pm 
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Barrel adjuster is critical because ideal cable tension is needed to get trim to sit in the correct positions.
I have fiddled around with this quite a bit.
I found it easy to get it right with a 34/50 chainring setup, not as easy with a 36/52. Once I got it right with the 36/52 I found that I could get all 11 gears on the big ring to work quietly and not rub.

goodboyr wrote:
FourRings wrote:
This may help...
http://secondnaturecycling.wordpress.co ... eur-setup/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Right......it will help you do it wrong! He talks about adjusting the FD using the barrel adjuster instead of the upper and lower limits! Probably a typo, but why bother have someone else read the manual, and then transcribe it incorrectly into his blog for you to read. Just use the actual Shimano manual:

http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-FD0002-03-ENG.pdf


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 8:55 pm 
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Agreed. But if you read that link, there is no mention of setting the limits. He immediately starts playing with cable tension to get the upper and lower limits set. There is an appropriate point where tension is set, but its certainly after you set the limits correctly.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:32 pm 
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I did not read the link- but I read in one of the Shimano PDF's that you set the limits between .5 and .0


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:36 pm 
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.5 and .0 what?


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Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:36 pm 
  • 14.90 € (including 19% VAT)
  • 59 components


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