150mm road stem

[tinozee]

It's weird they don't make him a custom frame with short Ht. Good point above about the Sram vs Shimano setups. I also think HT angle can be a big factor like I said above. Some frames like BMC have slack HT angles. And finally, yes it's totally individual preference. I know a lot of people swear by 110mm stems.

[Max Gravity]

Taller rider longer stem and seat-post that's just how it works normally.
I'm always on 135-140 nowadays but long time ago when trying to
squeeze in on a 58 frame (Italian fitting) I used 150 mm Ti stem with custom angle
that I had ordered from an Spanish company EDR (that is long gone).

But the steering got sluggish and when standing up for a sprint or steep climb
the weight balance got to far forward and rear wheel would slip.
Others that have tried the same length have the same experience.

Only go for extremely long stem if you are stuck with a overly short frame.
I know that Canyon used to have ridiculously short frames in large sizes
and the new "comfort-endurance-roubaix" bikes are really short to with TALL headtubes.
So I can see a need for a long stem with negative angles for sure.

[mythical]

I also wish to suggest handlebars with longer reach for those who don't already have this. I ride a ‘short’ 130mm stem because my bars are 100mm reach instead of the typical 80-90mm. I find it looks better as well.

[eric]

I prefer short reach compact bars. When positioned by the drops, the bar top is lower and farther out. So when I am on the bar tops on climbs my torso is a little lower.

[timtak]

150mm -30 trial bike riser stem flipped and now slammed (7.5mm headset cap)



I would prefer to be a little lower but I can use my drops for that I guess.

[Oswald]

I have a long torso with short legs and could get away with a 130mm stem on a Giant TCR medium frame with a 55.5cm top tube. Last year I bought a BMC GF01 with a 54.2cm top tube and even with a 140mm stem, I feel cramped. So I can understand the need for a 150mm stem. I should have searched for a comfort bike with normal geometry instead...

[kdawg]

150mm -30 trial bike riser stem flipped and now slammed (7.5mm headset cap)



I would prefer to be a little lower but I can use my drops for that I guess.

Crimmey, is that you?

[Pokerface07]

150mm -30 trial bike riser stem flipped and now slammed (7.5mm headset cap)



I would prefer to be a little lower but I can use my drops for that I guess.

Crimmey, is that you?

That was my first thought also.

[timtak]

I am not Crimmey.

Tim Takemoto.
http://nihonbunka.com

[Lucas1234]

3t now offers the ARX II Team in 150mm in 6 and 17 degree angles.

[AGW]

Tim, your bike is whack. It's not Felt's fault that you picked their Z-series frame. I'm stunned that you say you still can't get a flat back with this set-up...

[timtak]

My bike is great and I am grateful to Felt and not blaming thm for anything(?!)

I can get horizontal bending my elbows and or using the drops but consider even more negative drop to achieve a "lanced hybrid" : a TT bike position on road bike bars. TT bike bars are whack for cycling in traffic, but the position is good.

> 3t now offers the ARX II Team in 150mm in 6 and 17 degree angles.
But at about twice the price
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Trial-Bi ... 71029.html
(no affiliation) not factoring the cost of the 60 degree spacer that you'll need to make.

Since most headtubes are at 71-14 degrees, even a - 17 degree stem will be horizontal stem. My stem is only sloping down at less than 15 degrees. It looks horizontal from above.

[dogg]

is there a reason you run compact bars and not something with deeper drop and a lower hood position?

[timtak]

is there a reason you run compact bars and not something with deeper drop and a lower hood position?

No, reason at all. Thanks for pointing that out, I was unaware of it.
I like using my hoods about 90% of the time, since I am on my gears and brakes, so I don't want a deeper drop but perhaps I could get my hoods further down - by rotating them around the front, on these same bars.

Looking at pictures of hoods
https://www.google.com/search?q=hood+ro ... B210%3B729
it looks that mainly, the first part of the brake hoods in line with the top of the bars, whereas mine are pointing up slightly. I will see if I can have them put in line with the tops of the bars next time I get new handlebar tape.

Hmm, that will mean though, that since I like the place I have my hands to be horizontal (after I took the above photo I lowered the brake hoods another couple of degrees to make them dead level with the ground) if my brake hoods are level with the tops of my bars, then I will have to raise my handlebars to level instead of the downwards slope that they currently have. That will bring my riding position up. At the same time it should make the drops easier to use since it should be easier to access the brakes when using them. But I don't have much of a problem now.

So I think I will keep the hoods "high" (which means I can set them low).

The article below makes the point that people are setting up their bars so that the drops are useless, when ideally the drops should be used too. The article blames Lemond (who was advised by Cobb)
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/fitness/ ... u-go-31795

Thanks again

[KWalker]

Funny, since you say you use the hoods 90% of the time ergo your drops are useless.

Post a picture or video of you riding this under a hard effort. If anything, just for laughs.