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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 2:01 am 
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Posts: 1200
Been using em for quite a while.
I used I-links before.. The aican system is much better!
I wouldn't bother with I-links for shifters as the cable friction drop using aican cables for shifting totally out weighs the small gram difference

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Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 2:01 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 7:37 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback, how do you guys like the braking performance though?

Out of curiosity, anyone have luck with getting these from an ebay seller?
Such as these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/blue-SHIFT-AICA ... 3f238f1c5f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-AICAN-Bun ... 4d0b01d567

Only reason I'm considering these because they offer a color I like and Fair Wheel Bikes does not have the color I want in stock, they also don't have the color I've listed on the above link.

Bit worried about purchasing form ebay is because I see three different shades of blue, the one I listed, Fair Wheel bikes, and this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AICAN-Bunga ... 20d0944ed6
Kind of worried about them being counterfeits.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Location: Tucson, Az.
the first generation of b-link blue, is a teal color more like the Yeti blue. The newest generation is a deep blue similar to Kings Navy color.

Also this seems like a good chance to update this thread. I've recently finished a build for interbike where we paid attention to every gram on the bike so I have a very accurate cable and housing measurement. The bike was a 55cm with stops in all the standard places. I used B-link for the housings, power cordz for the shifters and Kcnc titanium cables for the brakes. Weights were as follows.

Shifters (full kit w/housing, cables, ferrules and cable tips.) 30.6 grams.
Brakes (full kit w/housing, ti cables, ferrules and cable tips.) 38.2 grams.

So the complete bike was 68.8 grams.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:01 am 
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Installed the brake and derailleur kit of these yesterday.

Brakes and rear derailleur action, feel, still the same. But, my FD shifting is much easier and smother now. Knew the FD was getting a little stiff, but no cables, SRAM or Jagwire operated this smooth and easily as the FD on this kit. Big upgrade for that portion of this kit.

Install, very flexible, very clever and much better and easier to setup than any other kit. Lower profile under the bar wraps, much appreciated and noticeably lower profile.

Great cables set for sure and worth the money. And plenty of weight savings.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:35 am 
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@madcow
Are you guys carrying or will be carrying the blue/silver combinations that I listed from ebay on the above link? This is something I didn't get to call in and ask earlier today at work, would prefer buying from you guys over ebay.

Also, mind sharing the full bike spec and it's weight? :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:55 pm 
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Location: Tucson, Az.
We can order the dual colored kits, but so far have chosen not to stock them due to the sheer volume of different color combinations. On our next order we may bring in a few of them. Since the housing is the same in the brake and shift kits, what some people have chosen to do is buy a brake kit in one color and a shift kit in another and then mix the pieces to make their own two color kits.

As for the project, I can't really give many details on this one yet but can say it's sub 9 pounds. Full details and pics in 3 weeks.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 3:40 pm 
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Alright, I'm in "DIRE NEED OF HELP".

Anyone have any issue with shifting in the rear with a SRAM drive train(I'm using Force, 2012 10 speed) and a KMC X10SL-DLC chain?

Is a ridiculously high cable tension needed to have it to work properly?

Reason I'm asking the above questions is, I can't get it to down shift to the smallest cog, but I can upshift and down shift on the other 9 cogs smoothly. Already tried it with another SRAM Force rear derailleur, same model, that I borrowed from a friend. Still no luck.

Brought it to a very well reputed mechanic and his first reaction was that it's the type of housing I'm using that's causing the problem. He did fiddle with it for half an hour and still couldn't get it to work, then advised me to just go back to normal housings. He also mention that my KMC X10SL-DLC does not work well with SRAM.....

Funny thing was, this setup worked fine with my Ultegra 11-28 cassette with a KMC X10SL-TI and once I put on the new chain and Red XG1090 11-23 cassette, this problem comes up. Brought it over to another mechanic and he has no idea. Worked on it for about 5 days with at least 4 hours each myself and brought it to two different mechanics..... I've completely ran out of ideas, hoping you guys can help me out.

P.S. Sorry for the caps, I'm just frustrated and just need to seek some sort of guidance. Been off my bike for two weeks because of this since I only have one bike.... :(


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 4:34 pm 
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A ton of people here use the housing on a variety of shift systems, you shouldn't have a problem with the nature of the housing. May be worthwhile to make sure the housing is fully seated and the cables moves through it smoothly.

Also I ride with dozens of people who use X10Sls with sram drivetrains of various types, no issues.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 4:42 pm 
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@Danza

Yeah, that's the thing, I've been using KMC chain for so long, doubt that's true. Just asking since this is causing me a lot of headache.

Just to be sure, what do you mean by having the the housing full seated? As in all the links are connected properly and no slacks is present? If so, then my housings are fully seated.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:04 pm 
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Troubleshooting problems like these can be tough because there can be so many causes. (derailleur, limit screw, hanger, cassette spacing, cog problem, chain, cable, housing and even the shifter itself.) You need to narrow down where the problem is and there are some ways to do that.

Put your bike in a stand with the chain in the 11t. Unhook the cable from the rear derailleur at the pinch bolt. Pedal the bike and with your hand move the derailleur up to somewhere in the middle of the cassette. Continue to pedal and let go of the derailleur and watch what it does. Does it go straight back to the 11t when you let it go, or does it hesitate in the 12 before dropping, or does it not drop into the 11 at all?

If it drops to the 11 with no problem, you know your problem is somewhere in front of the derailleur.(not the derailleur, hanger or limit screws) Next hook the cable back up, check your shifting. Then do the same test you just did but this time do it with the cable installed. Does the derailleur do the same thing it did with the cable unhooked?

If you report back after doing these tests we can either figure out where the problem is or give you another test or two to try and further narrow the possibilities.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Just to clarify on the second test. Have the derailleur position somewhere in the middle of the cog, then keep downshifting to 11t?

To detail my problem. I can get it to down shift from 12 to 11 if I relax the cable tension. The result of that, the chain doesn't get seated properly on each cog as I up shift and I can't get it up to 23.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 6:41 pm 
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For the 2nd test hook up the cable as you normally would and push the derailleur up the cassette by hand and then let it go while pedaling to see if drops to the 11 or if it does not.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 7:19 pm 
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What about the tension on the cable, do they need to be properly adjusted or any tension is fine?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:28 pm 
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First test, it goes back down to 11t, but not the second test. Though, a couple of time it does go down to 11t. The second test was done with cable tension that allows shifting.


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Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:28 pm 


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