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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:55 pm 
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I just had my 2007 Orbea Orca soda blasted. I was going to chuck it in the garbage. The frame has 72,000 miles on it. Winter/poor weather riding. Clear coat would come off just with a finger nail, but where it was painted even the razor blade was taking forever.
I found a local guy who has a mobile sand blasting company. He soda blasted frame and fork for $50 cash. It took him about 30 minutes.
If it was a frame important to me I would say don't do it. lots of little imperfection. I will get some resin to fill the little spots and try to get a few more winters out of it.

I have stripped carbon cranks, seatposts and handlebars and been riding those bare carbon for years. No issues. The look the same. I don't think you need to worry about any kind of a clear coat. I do put a car wax on it 4 or 5 times a year

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:21 am 
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Having worked with carbon fiber for years now, I can tell you that blasting carbon items can be done. What is crucial to getting a decent look is how much resin is remaining on the exterior surface from the initial production. It partly determines what the finished post-blasting product looks like.

If you choose to blast the frame, make sure to use a very low air pressure setting at first. You don't want to remove too much resin exposing too many fibers on the surface. I would probably take it in a multi-stage process, removing thin layers at a time. As soon as a large number of fibers are freed from the resin, stop the blasting.

I have blasted many carbon items over the years, primarily just to see what the effect would be. It was never good. I could never sell any blasted items on my website.


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 12:54 pm 
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After adding the epoxy to fill little imperfections and then sanding, sanding and sanding those areas. If you do this take great care in that step as the epoxy is much harder than carbon and sanding the epoxy took quite a while. And be sure to get the clear if you are not painting.
I used a matte black spray paint and blacked out. All of the polished aluminum. Orbea 'O' on the head tube, drop outs and the seat post clamp.

Then what I did was take a rag and spray some of the paint on the rag and wipe it over the carbon frame and fork. This just darkened the carbon weave a little bit and kind of eliminated that greenish/yellow tint that the bare carbon had. I like it.

I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Not perfect but good enough for bad weather training.

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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2003 1:16 pm
Posts: 513
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veloflyte wrote:
What is crucial to getting a decent look is how much resin is remaining on the exterior surface from the initial production. It partly determines what the finished post-blasting product looks like.

.

yes, this seems to be the key-point.


my experience:

Soda blasting does not injure the frame, but the surface looks really ugly afterwards. all the surface illeguralities, filled with resin, appear again.
holes für the tubes:
Image
Image

Image

Image

Image

Frame (weight now 804 gramm, frameset as pictured 1211 gramm)) after repair and repaint.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:12 pm 
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Started rubbing my old Calfee Tetra-Pro with some 400 grit...looks good but OMG this is going to take forever...

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 1:22 am 
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Wingnut wrote:
Started rubbing my old Calfee Tetra-Pro with some 400 grit...looks good but OMG this is going to take forever...

Image


I did it with the blade...also takes forever but less risks to remove carbon.


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