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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:03 am 
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Quick question. On the Campy BB30 cups for the SP UT Cranks, are you guys using grease, loctite, or nothing at all when pressing them into the BB Shell. Instructions are kinda silent on this point. I know Campy recommends Locktite 222 on the screw in English and Italian cups, but the BB30 are not threaded and have a rubber ring around the inside - like a seal. I used a hit of grease and they pressed right into the BB Shell, but now I'm wondering if they are gonna move around.


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Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:03 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:06 am 
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I installed mine on a Cannondale SS frame absolutely dry almost 2 years ago now. No problems at all.

I suspect that the quality and tolerances that the BB shell is made to, will have an impact as to how well the cups will seat and last.

Definitely, no lubricants. You made a mistake.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 3:52 am 
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i'd go with loctite 609 or 603, 603 being slightly stronger and oil tolerant. be sure to clean the surfaces very well first. ideally, a loctite primer would be used as well, but it's less necessary with the 603.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 5:21 am 
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Location: Insjön, SWEDEN
I always use any form of assembly lube and read the manual if I´m unsure how it should be.

It don´t matter if you are a pro mechanic or not, new technology are coming and the engineers instructions are the first to follow, then listen to known problems and solutions to them.


In this case, BB30 shell, assemble the bearings dry is fine first time, the problem comes when you want to dismount them, the aluminum interface will oxidize and leave the bearing stuck there, the aluminum shell is very thin (my 2011 SSix HM is).

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 5:38 am 
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So what is the best way to get them out?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:27 am 
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With right type of press as they are removable, otherwise buying new cups are of least hassle.

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Last edited by Powerful Pete on Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Deleted quote PP


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:53 am 
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A little bearing set loctight is a very good idea
They push out and creak more often than not
If you wana take em out then just grease em and gently tap em out with something blunt..
Eg a 10mm Allen key, dowel, anything really but not a screwdriver
You don't want to damage the shell
Like wise I wouldn't mount em dry. If they galvanize to the frame you've F'ed the frame.
Loctight will make them harder to remove but with the help of a hairdryer it won't be a big deal..
Make sure if you use loctight you use the right one..
A bearing seat compound is the best or a light hold, the red stuff will require lot of heat and lots of force to remove not very frame freindly

Campags bb30 solution is not the best. It works but it can require frequent maintenance

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:35 am 
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I just ordered new ones - no big deal - only about 50 bucks - would prefer to start from scratch once I get these out.

Ive got a Park Tools RT-1 I think should help me get them out pretty easily - especially since they were greased on the way in.

That said, from what I am reading above, the correct method is - clean the BB Shell - maybe use some loctite primer as well, then use 603 or 609 when I repress them in with the campy press tool. No grease at all in the shell when I press them back in - only loctite - correct? How much loctite should I use. And park tools recommends loctite 680 for this - seems like a similar product - anyone use that before?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 10:03 am 
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Any kinda press will do. I use a parks headset press.. If they were greased you should be able to get em out tOtally undamaged with a length of 10mm dowel and a hammer just work around the lip of the cup inside the BB shell


Last edited by Powerful Pete on Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Removed the quote. Please don't quote immediately previous post. Thanks. PP


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 3:48 am 
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JWolf wrote:
How much loctite should I use.


fully coat the cup's sleeve that goes in the frame.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:20 am 
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Interesting. I'm potentially about to install Campag on a PressFit30 frame. To me the Campag press-in cups don't look like they go deep enough to prevent them moving around and coming out - these comments seem to qualify that thought.

I plan to use a threaded PressFit30 to BSA adaptor (see pic below), install the cups before mounting (taking advantage of the flat sections on each side to use an adjustable spanner to oppose the BB cup installation) and then press the adaptor with cups into the frame.

Image

Afraid it doesn't help you with your BB30 option, although then I'd be inclined to run a standard BB30 bearing setup in the frame and use the Wheels Mfg Campag UT adaptors - means running 2 sets of bearings unnecessarily, but also means your crank bearings will never wear out and it'll probably be creak and problem free.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:02 pm 
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Cool idea...

But with the BB30 to BSA adapter, aren't you facing the same issue as the stock Campy BB30 adapter. You still end up with 2 cups pressed into the shell and they can move around just the same. Are you going to use loctite on the cups as well when they go into the BB Shell on the bike.

Do you think the connection inside the BB Shell makes the whole unit stronger.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 1:08 am 
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If you saw the effort it takes to remove these PressFit cups (at least on a frame with the right tolerances) you'd know there's no need to worry!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 8:27 am 
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no grease! I use a VAR tool, works fantastic. Never had any problems assembling and dissassembling


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Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 8:27 am 


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