Need advice: Sram Red front derailleur
Moderator: robbosmans
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It means the front mech changes angle as you go from big to smal to big rings...
Old ones stay straight front to back where new ones both rise up (going to big) and actually angle a little to match the chain line virtually eliminating chain rub when crossed over.
Old ones stay straight front to back where new ones both rise up (going to big) and actually angle a little to match the chain line virtually eliminating chain rub when crossed over.
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CharlesM wrote:It means the front mech changes angle as you go from big to smal to big rings...
Old ones stay straight front to back where new ones both rise up (going to big) and actually angle a little to match the chain line virtually eliminating chain rub when crossed over.
Now it's all clear. Thank you very much!
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Are the Hi/Lo limit screws M4 or M3 ?
My calipers are reading 3.5mm
I would think that they would make the hi/lo limit screws interchangable with the RD's hi/lo screws which are M4
???
My calipers are reading 3.5mm
I would think that they would make the hi/lo limit screws interchangable with the RD's hi/lo screws which are M4
???
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
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So I took care of the FD installation today. Thanks timzcat.
I pretty much followed this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEb8qjWILnY
It was pretty easy and the result is pretty incredible. Just as everyone says. I am using 2011 old red shifters. I literally took the old one off and just put the new one on with the same used cable. It feels like my life has changed with this derailleur. I might be exaggerating, but it really is better than anything I have ever tried.
I pretty much followed this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEb8qjWILnY
It was pretty easy and the result is pretty incredible. Just as everyone says. I am using 2011 old red shifters. I literally took the old one off and just put the new one on with the same used cable. It feels like my life has changed with this derailleur. I might be exaggerating, but it really is better than anything I have ever tried.
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@cervelobert: can you post some pictures? Does the Yaw look good with the "old" Red parts?
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I only took one picture after the installation. It has a chrome finish and it is obviously newer than all the parts. I'm sure as things get dirtier, it will all start to look more uniform again, but it looks fine to me. Imagine this on a Cervelo S2 with a 2011 Red Group. Chain catcher is great, but I forgot to weigh all the parts before installing due to my excitement.
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Great..thanks for the picture. Did you use the cable tension barrel adjuster?
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Greetings from the Netherlands
Specialized Tarmac S-works SL6 (Green Cameleon)
Specialized Tarmac Pro SL6 Disc (Blue/Teal Sram Force AXS)
Specialized Epic Elite 29
Greetings from the Netherlands
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Nope, just a straight on, and forgot about it. I think next time I change out my cables I'm going to put the adjuster in, but... why?
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I was wondering if I needed the barrel adjuster that comes with the yaw FD.
Specialized Tarmac S-works SL7 (Satin carbon spectraflair tint)
Specialized Tarmac S-works SL6 (Green Cameleon)
Specialized Tarmac Pro SL6 Disc (Blue/Teal Sram Force AXS)
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Greetings from the Netherlands
Specialized Tarmac S-works SL6 (Green Cameleon)
Specialized Tarmac Pro SL6 Disc (Blue/Teal Sram Force AXS)
Specialized Epic Elite 29
Greetings from the Netherlands
It's going to make fine tuning very easy. I would use it versus a bunch of fiddling with trying to perfectly tension the cable.
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CharlesM is right I guess. Like I said, I was just so excited I even forgot to weigh it.
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Last week I set up the new Yaw FD with new Red Clamp Adapter with the following:
Old Red Shifters
Force Compact Cranks
Rotor Q-Rings 50/34
Force RD
KMC Ti-SL Gold Chain
On my PedalForce CG1
Prior to the change I was having trouble dropping the chain OVER the big ring using the 1091R Chain. Reading the WW forums, I decided it was better to swap the SRAM chain for the slightly wider KMC Chain.
I'd never completely set up a FD before (always leaving the adjustment to my LBS), and this was pretty easy to do after I got the height correct.
In practice, it works a hell of a lot better than my Force FD did. Shifts are confident, solid, and very accurate.
Old Red Shifters
Force Compact Cranks
Rotor Q-Rings 50/34
Force RD
KMC Ti-SL Gold Chain
On my PedalForce CG1
Prior to the change I was having trouble dropping the chain OVER the big ring using the 1091R Chain. Reading the WW forums, I decided it was better to swap the SRAM chain for the slightly wider KMC Chain.
I'd never completely set up a FD before (always leaving the adjustment to my LBS), and this was pretty easy to do after I got the height correct.
In practice, it works a hell of a lot better than my Force FD did. Shifts are confident, solid, and very accurate.
CharlesM wrote:
Guy's I'm not guessing at this or asking SRAM... I have a new front mech on an old group set and it just plain works better.
I think Velonews covered most of the combinations and they also found that putting the 2012 Front der on the old SRAM group simply works quite a bit better.
The steel cage Force is a slight improvement, The 2012 RED is a substantial one, but I wouldnt change from the steel just to change... Frankly, any bitching about the steel one is mostly hot air. It works well. The Ti ones worked OK, but when you get the new one it's simply bang on.
That said, the entire new 2012 group is not only a breeze to set up, the whole thing works extremely well.
^all of this.
I'm not sure why you'd change the FD if admittedly you're not unhappy with your current steel cage.
I'm also not sure why you'd start another thread because because you didn't like the answers in the previous/current thread about the same topic.
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