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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2003 1:37 am
Posts: 270
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Damn close to my weight goal finnaly, I would like to be at 10.9 with bottle cage and GPS mount, im about 160 grams off.

daily use weight(real tires BTW!)
Image

Magazine weight, no pedals or bottle cage:
Image

_________________
Curt Brown

2016 Cannondale EVO Etap 13.8#'s
2012 Cannondale Supersix EVO etap 13.7#'s
2015 Cannondale SUPER X 16.0#'s
2016 Cannondale FatCad2 28.1#'s
2011 Cannondale Carbon Flash 1 17.9#'s


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Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:51 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:41 am
Posts: 83
Location: Melbourne, Australia
powercordz and ilinks.
you'll be there for sure!

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Colnago C59 Italia GLBK
Up coming custom steel cyclocross :D


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 6:48 am
Posts: 1222
Location: Central USA
A weight goal can drive us to do unreasonable things.....forget that weight goal - as it can get in the way or real world consideratoins. Instead consider getting a setback seat post and then moving the seat back about 50 mm - if done right you could look past the issues of those grams and recoup it via much greater performance gains :D

Just suggesting............ :beerchug:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:25 am
Posts: 575
Location: Gold Coast Australia
Gotta call you on the real tyres mate... they'll not last to the end of the drive way.. and we're off .... :popcorn:

Nice work though.. bar tape seem overly luxurious, and extending up the bars a fair way....

@ Tomassini... how can you possibly know Curt needs greater saddle setback without having perfromed a fit on him yourself and observed his form on the current dimensions? If it was a piss take then pls ignore my confusion as to the advice... :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:44 pm
Posts: 72
Wouldn't adding a setback seatpost make the need for moving the seat forward even worse ? As it is, the saddle is already mounted far forward - adding a setback would push the whole saddle back which means he would need the saddle moved further forward. That is of course assuming that the saddle as it is is already the proper fit for him.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 6:14 am
Posts: 1328
Location: by Crystal Springs (Sawyer Creek Trail)
quaman26 wrote:
Wouldn't adding a setback seatpost make the need for moving the seat forward even worse ? As it is, the saddle is already mounted far forward - adding a setback would push the whole saddle back which means he would need the saddle moved further forward. That is of course assuming that the saddle as it is is already the proper fit for him.


Well Tommasini is eyeball fitting the bike without even seeing the rider on it. If one could just eyeball the perfect dimensions on every bike, nobody would ever have fit problems. Lol at suggesting setback 50 mm (50 mm is HUGEEEEE) with no friggin clue as to what the rider really needs. Just ridiculous. You don't even know any of his body dimensions such as his femur length, not to mention weight distribution on the bike and a dozen other things


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2003 1:37 am
Posts: 270
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
justkeepedaling wrote:
quaman26 wrote:
Wouldn't adding a setback seatpost make the need for moving the seat forward even worse ? As it is, the saddle is already mounted far forward - adding a setback would push the whole saddle back which means he would need the saddle moved further forward. That is of course assuming that the saddle as it is is already the proper fit for him.


Well Tommasini is eyeball fitting the bike without even seeing the rider on it. If one could just eyeball the perfect dimensions on every bike, nobody would ever have fit problems. Lol at suggesting setback 50 mm (50 mm is HUGEEEEE) with no friggin clue as to what the rider really needs. Just ridiculous. You don't even know any of his body dimensions such as his femur length, not to mention weight distribution on the bike and a dozen other things



I find that im faster sitting at the tip of the saddle, so if I set it back I would not have anything to sit on? Or should I just try moving it all the way back and change pedaling style?

_________________
Curt Brown

2016 Cannondale EVO Etap 13.8#'s
2012 Cannondale Supersix EVO etap 13.7#'s
2015 Cannondale SUPER X 16.0#'s
2016 Cannondale FatCad2 28.1#'s
2011 Cannondale Carbon Flash 1 17.9#'s


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2003 1:37 am
Posts: 270
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
simonanks69 wrote:
powercordz and ilinks.
you'll be there for sure!


What would I save? I will do it if it's worth it, those are just cheap bike shop cables thats on it now.

_________________
Curt Brown

2016 Cannondale EVO Etap 13.8#'s
2012 Cannondale Supersix EVO etap 13.7#'s
2015 Cannondale SUPER X 16.0#'s
2016 Cannondale FatCad2 28.1#'s
2011 Cannondale Carbon Flash 1 17.9#'s


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:41 pm
Posts: 115
hi Curt!

i should have my ilink / mini ilink / powercordz setup in less than a month, and the new Red stock cables as well. I could weight everything and give you details on actual weight savings you should expect, if you don´t mind waiting.


note 1) if after seeing the actual savings figures you dont want to change cables, I'd suggest Berk combo, might save something close to the 160 gr you need. can't wait for mine, but he needs to find a toupe he can borrow in order to copy the shape for my combo.. I think price/grams saved would be much better than swapping the cables, and there are plenty good reviews of his combos around..

note 2) I still find your total weight faboulous! my build when finished will be very close to 12 lbs and it is so similar to yours.. I still think I can explain maybe 1/2 a pound difference, not a full pound though. hopefully I made some wrong calculations and might turn out a bit less than 12 in the end..

note 3) in all, Im much likely not using the powercordz on my build. reason? Im aware powercordz dont go well with mini I links, Ive seen people here stating they use this combo, but no one replied me about installation/performance. there is some deburring issues in place, Pcordz aknowledge this in this forum and to me by mail. i THINK Ive seen people using Pcordz with ilinks (not mini) both for brakes and shifters. however, I believe the weight savings are lesser than "regular" gables in the minis. finally, why not use regular cable + Pcordz where I can? Id have a bike with one silver cable and one yellow cable, the only colour I could get the cordz in time to ship to Brazil. that would be just too much to take lol... I could get away with both yellow cables, but this... hopefully Im making sense!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:27 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 2689
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Well you won't save a massive ammount of weight with powerordz and bits. If you do that as a programme of weight reduction which will involve changing many parts and spending a small fortune, then it might "be worth it". If you do that you will wish you just bought a frame and built a bike up. If you are going to keep it standardish spec then don't bother and just fit good quality cables (and worry about the weight) when the time for a change is due.

I presume that weight is in kg.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2003 1:37 am
Posts: 270
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
leosantos wrote:
hi Curt!

i should have my ilink / mini ilink / powercordz setup in less than a month, and the new Red stock cables as well. I could weight everything and give you details on actual weight savings you should expect, if you don´t mind waiting.


note 1) if after seeing the actual savings figures you dont want to change cables, I'd suggest Berk combo, might save something close to the 160 gr you need. can't wait for mine, but he needs to find a toupe he can borrow in order to copy the shape for my combo.. I think price/grams saved would be much better than swapping the cables, and there are plenty good reviews of his combos around..

note 2) I still find your total weight faboulous! my build when finished will be very close to 12 lbs and it is so similar to yours.. I still think I can explain maybe 1/2 a pound difference, not a full pound though. hopefully I made some wrong calculations and might turn out a bit less than 12 in the end..

note 3) in all, Im much likely not using the powercordz on my build. reason? Im aware powercordz dont go well with mini I links, Ive seen people here stating they use this combo, but no one replied me about installation/performance. there is some deburring issues in place, Pcordz aknowledge this in this forum and to me by mail. i THINK Ive seen people using Pcordz with ilinks (not mini) both for brakes and shifters. however, I believe the weight savings are lesser than "regular" gables in the minis. finally, why not use regular cable + Pcordz where I can? Id have a bike with one silver cable and one yellow cable, the only colour I could get the cordz in time to ship to Brazil. that would be just too much to take lol... I could get away with both yellow cables, but this... hopefully Im making sense!


Yeah I don't think there is enough cable on the bike to make a differance, I could be wrong. Nanogram pedals are next, I can justify them as I need pedals for my training bike im slowly putting together, I will through the SP Ti's on it. My brakes are at 228 grams a pair, there could be an easy 50gr saved, my seat at 148g, but what else will work that is lighter(post is at 105g cut now).

_________________
Curt Brown

2016 Cannondale EVO Etap 13.8#'s
2012 Cannondale Supersix EVO etap 13.7#'s
2015 Cannondale SUPER X 16.0#'s
2016 Cannondale FatCad2 28.1#'s
2011 Cannondale Carbon Flash 1 17.9#'s


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 9:58 am
Posts: 601
What's so significant about 10.9 over 11.1 lbs? Your bike is super light already at 11.1.
If you really want to go below the 11 mark there are a few items that you can change that can bring it even lower than 10.9, but it's going to cost you.
Custom tubulars, cranks and the cassette.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:25 pm
Posts: 169
bm0p700f wrote:
I presume that weight is in kg.


:thumbup:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:41 pm
Posts: 115
cbre, the berk combo goes from 120-140 gr these days..
again, I agree that you wont save a lot in cables, and moneywise, there are better options.. I should post on my findings anyway when I get my stuff here
I too, am going with heavy brakes, the 2012 red in my case, at 250 gr I believe.

but nanograms... I truly believe you can cheaply customize a cromoly speedplay to weigh just as much or less (see the bike from steff from France, it's a cervelo r3sl on the introduce yourself session)..


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Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:14 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:23 am
Posts: 662
Location: so. cal.
I do not know how much you are willing to spend but going for some hologram cranks or thm cranks might save you around 50-80 grams; the brakes could be changed to planet x and save 25 grams for less than $200, our if you want to go all out kcnc cb1 will save you over 50 grams. Brakes and crank are the only areas that you could save a considerable amount of weight, but it might cost you more than you are willing to spend and or sacrifice performance.
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2


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