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 Post subject: Debadging 3T seatposts
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:45 am
Posts: 8
Hey guys,

I just upgraded my frame (cervelo R5) and due to its 73° seat tube and my short legs, I need a zero offset post to get me in a proper position relative to the BB. It also has to be able to fit oval rails, as I ride a fizik kurve snake, which has 7x9 rails.

I'm currently looking at a 3T Stylus 0 LTD, which seems like an attractive option at around 150g which (I'm told) will fit my saddle.

Unfortunately, that light grey stripe doesn't look like it would go well with the rest of my build, so I'm looking to get rid of it. I've done a bit of research and have found that a lot of people debadge 3T stems and handlebars using acetone, but haven't found nearly as much information about removing the graphics from their seatposts. Anyone have any experience doing this?

I figure if anyone would know, it'd be someone on this forum.

I'm also open to other seatpost suggestions. I don't want to spend more than $250 or so USD, I'd like it to be carbon, and I'd like to be at least in the 150g or below range. The primary reason I'm looking at 3T is because my current bars and stem are 3T, but I'm going to have to replace the stem with a longer one anyway, so I'm not necessarily committed to the brand.


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 Post subject: Debadging 3T seatposts
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 11:12 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 11:44 pm
Posts: 59
3T makes a stealth version of that seatpost I am pretty sure, black graphics on black so you wouldn't have to remove anything.

I have removed logos on a previews 3T team stem and worked out ok, my buddy has it now and I now have a stealth version.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:45 am
Posts: 8
They do make one, but it appears to be sold out everywhere. I've see a couple from a german seller on ebay, but I'm not 100% sure it'll fit my rails so I don't want to get one I can't return just in case.

I suppose I could always buy one from somewhere I can return it, check to make sure it fits, and then pick up one of the ebay ones.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 11:44 pm
Posts: 59
be careful with the ebay 3T stuff, I have heard that a good bunch is fake. I would think that German seller wouldn't be a problem.

However I would probably pick one up from here over ebay:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/e ... lsrc=aw.ds


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:50 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:45 am
Posts: 8
Yeah, I'm always a little wary of ebayed bike parts. I'll do a bit more digging and see if I can find it anywhere else.

EDIT: Apparently they're only hard to come by in the US. Found a few from UK retailers, so I ordered one. Hopefully it fits the rails. Returning it I'm sure would be somewhat of a pain in the ass, but better than some ebay seller from germany.

Unfortunately they didn't have the 280mm size, so I had to order a 350 and then I'll have to cut it down.

EDIT 2: Yep, that's the one I ended up buying. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:37 am 
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Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm
Posts: 555
Just sand the post down and re-clearcoat

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:35 am
Posts: 102
^ +1

Image

- Sanded the carbon, re-clearcoated
- Paint remover for the stripe on the metal head part

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:45 am
Posts: 8
FilmAt11 wrote:
^ +1

Image

- Sanded the carbon, re-clearcoated
- Paint remover for the stripe on the metal head part


Love it. If you don't mind me asking, what grit sandpaper did you use, and what kind of clearcoat did you put on? The stealth one I bought does have some graphics on it that I'll probably want to take off.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 10:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:35 am
Posts: 102
I think that I started with 220 grit. You can wrap the sandpaper around the tube and make progress quickly and evenly. Then move to a finer grit (400/600) to smooth it out and finally a steel wool-like sanding pad to finish it off. Matte Krylon (or Rustoleum...can't recall) clear-coat was used - about (3) light coats. Super easy - if you botch the clear coating by spraying too heavily and getting drips, etc. - simply let dry, sand again and repeat.

BTW - After removing the stripe from the metal head part, mask the head with tape prior to sanding so you don't nick the anodized finished while sanding the tube.

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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 10:53 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:45 am
Posts: 8
FilmAt11 wrote:
I think that I started with 220 grit. You can wrap the sandpaper around the tube and make progress quickly and evenly. Then move to a finer grit (400/600) to smooth it out and finally a steel wool-like sanding pad to finish it off. Matte Krylon (or Rustoleum...can't recall) clear-coat was used - about (3) light coats. Super easy - if you botch the clear coating by spraying too heavily and getting drips, etc. - simply let dry, sand again and repeat.

BTW - After removing the stripe from the metal head part, mask the head with tape prior to sanding so you don't nick the anodized finished while sanding the tube.


Thanks for the tips. Looks like I have some supplies to pick up.


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