BOR vs. Rotor 3D+ vs. Tune Smart Foot

[Dammit]

So, the time has come to look at the CX bike.

I've had power (an old wired SRM) on my road bike for a year or so now, and wish to train with power over the winter.

In terms of power meter I'd love a new SRM, but I cannot justify the cost of one.

So, after due consideration of the "wandering zero offset" issue that the Power2max suffers from, I've decided that I can live with it.

The Power2max can come with any of the cranks listed in the title of this post, and are covered by a spread of ~£70, so for all intents and purposes are the same price.

I'm tempted by the huge range of BB standards which the BOR/Tune are capable of using, but would the Rotor 3D+ be a better crankset?

I'm considering future resale value in this judgement as well as function.

(If anyone has a compact Hollowgram SRM for sale please let me know!)

[xsnailx]

I do have 2 power2max units and use them more than one year. the zero offset problem is not a gripe for me. i douse one with rotor and second with sram. considering resale value and overall functionality if i were you i would choose rotor. bor is unproven and tune is flexy

[boots2000]

I have been using a rotor 3D+ on my MTB- I find it to be way better than a Cannondale Hollowgram.
With the Cannondale crank and bb I constantly had noises, creaks, and bearing issues. No such issues with 3D+.

[Dammit]

I've got one pair of SiSl's on the road bike, and a set of Si's on the Cross bike.

I would get the P2M unit for the Hollowgrams if such a thing existed, but sadly it doesn't- I really like the Hollowgrams, and have had no issues with either pair.

However, if you say the Rotor 3D+ are better, then that's a strong recommendation for them.

So- the cranks will definitely be the Rotor.

Final question is whether the P2M is the right choice, I'm concerned about it's known issues when doing steady state session such as a 2X20 on the turbo- if you don't freewheel then it cannot auto-zero, so the zero offset drifts considerably.

This is not such a problem when out riding as there will always be moments when you coast briefly, so it can account for the drift.

Having thought about it overnight I am concerned that I am basing a fairly major purchasing decision on cost more than function.

I guess it comes down to being able to buy the P2M today, whereas I'd need to save for a couple of months for the SRM.

[LarsEjaas]

I have ridden a set of SRM cranks on Rotor 3d+ CRANKS since april.

Seems just as stiff as my former Dura ace 7800 cranks, and really not much to say than it works really well

As long as you DON't use a frame with BB80 (or similar) press fit BB, The Rotor cranks can be used on both BSA, BB30 and BBright frames. I am on a old style BSA frame, and the special Rotor bearings works really well for this

EDIT:Sorry looks like I was wrong here. Rotor 3D+ should also be compatible with press fit BB80 frames. Press fit bearings are actually listed on Rotor's homepage.

Well, then I guess I would choose the Rotor over BOR: The weight of the Rotor is quite a bit lighter...