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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:22 pm 
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I have a set of Campy Bora Ultra's (I think they're either 2008 or 2009). Towards the end of my long ride today I noticed that the front wheel is a bit wiggly, probably about 5mm room to move it by the front breaks. I re-tightened the QR, but didn't help...
Since I had no tools on me, I stopped by a small bike shop where they quickly opened the hub and the guy tightened something inside the hub and that seems to have solved the problem. The wheel is now as tight as it used to be, there's no wiggle, but I think something is off with the bearings. If i spin (by hand) my rear wheel, it keeps spinning for over 2 minutes, whereas the front wheel comes to a stop after 30 seconds or so.

I've read that people put over 10000km on these Boras before overhauling the bearings. My wheelset has at most 1500km or so. Any ideas what happened here and what shall be done to fix it? Do i just need new bearings/retainer, or also new cones/cups?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:31 pm 
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Sounds like you shot the bearings by riding them with too much play.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xM9SiZVYe_g

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Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:31 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 11:48 pm 
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Location: Belgium
Hi,

Or the bikeshop just overtightened it which is easily fixed with a couple of hex keys.

Ciao, ;)

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:46 am 
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Most likely the first part of the problem was that the bolt for the bearing adjusment collar (under one side of the plastic endcaps) was not tight enough causing the collar to loosen. The shop likely then slightly over tighted the adjusting collar to get you on the road.

Pop off one cup (you won't know which side until you try one , and maybe the second) and when you see a collar with small allen head bolt that's the start of making your Bora's spin and spin for ages again. Just remember that a small allen wrench/bolt head suggests lower torque values (I have no idea if Campy specs a torque for that particular bolt) so go firm when you tighten it but not aggressive.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:17 pm 
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Location: West Yorkshire UK.
Yeah, i second that the shop just tightened it a tad too much. slacken it off a mil and it will be fine.

Lig.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:37 pm 
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You guys are probably right, I assumed the shop would have done a proper job. I've seen shot bearings from a single ride with that much play. Do the bearings make any sound while turning or is it silent like before ?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:24 pm 
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Location: Belgium
Hi,

Quote:
(I have no idea if Campy specs a torque for that particular bolt)


Since the bearing play is set by the collar the only function of the bolt is to keep it in that position. Campa suggests you tighten it untill the gap in the collar closes.

Quote:
I've seen shot bearings from a single ride with that much play.


The play was probably caused by excess grease being pushed aside. Most LBS and even the factory itself stuff way too much grease in the hubs making it nigh impossible to adjust the bearing play in a single run. 2.5mm play l/r is often the result of it after the first ride.
That said I can't really fathom how a single ride with that amount of play (any amount really) can ruine a set of cup and cone bearings. But...If you say so... :noidea:

Ciao, ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 4:45 am 
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Location: NoVA/DC
just a note, the preload collar pushes on a compression ring that sits in the bearing "cone". it will wedge itself in, adjustments will seem to do nothing. so back the preload collar off a couple full revolutions and tap the end of the axle (the side with the collar) with a plastic faced hammer. this will unseat the compression ring and make hub adjustment possible.
ideally, at this point, you should reinstall the wheel in your fork and close the qr, then make your adjustment. it's the only real way to know that youre accurately compensating for qr compression.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:00 am 
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Hi,

Quote:
it's the only real way to know that youre accurately compensating for qr compression.


Indeed, that's the correct way to go about it.
QR compression can amount to a few tenths of a mm IIRC, enough to turn even the finest bearing into a gritty one.

Ciao, ;)

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Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:00 am 


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