Are you the person coming back from deployment? If transitioning from a period off the saddle, I would tend to say put in 2000-3000mi to regain your cycling legs, balance, flexibility. You would then be in a much better postion to choose a frame, and can respond better to any unexpected fit changes that might come up.

Otoh a little consumer consumption can go a long way to increasing motivational factors. In that case get the totl component set, put in the miles and then choose a frame.

Im just the opposite! I will never buy a cheap chinese carbon frame again - Bad experince with my Neo Exile, which at the time I bought it got many praises

My Parlee Z5 is the best thing Ive ever spent my money on.. Proberly not the right frame for all, but for me its just perfect - Have 2010 SRAM force with a red crank, Except from the crank I moved everything else from the neo.. Will most likely upgrade my group next year!!

_________________
Parlee Z5 ML

I always think carbon frames with cheap components look goofy. On the other hand, Cannondale CAAD10's or PedalForce carbons or other quality, low-cost frames with good components look cool: like the user knows what's important to him. Super-high end frames with super-high-end components are also nice, of course, but the rider had better be up to his equipment to some degree.

On SRAM, Rival, Force, and Red are all fairly close. Apex is the first group which looks cheap, but it still works well. Same deal with Campy: top 3 groups are all quite good. On Shimano, I find anything below Dura-Ace seems like a compromise. That's just my perception.

But you can also look at it from a $/gram standpoint. Frames are an expensive way to save weight.

_________________
http://djconnel.blogspot.com/
Fuji SL/1
Send your data to Weight Weenie listings!

100% agree with the above comment re group sets. DA is ok. the rest is.... lack lustre. (obviously Di2 is out of the question) 78 is in a lot of ways better than 79 but the shifter ergonomics are terrible.

in your situation i would go mid level full build using a 2nd hand frame.

rival is a good option in your situation, the crank is the only really heavy part, if you switch to a nicer frame at a later date with a different BB type you can use it as an excuse to do an after market crank as well and save ~200g. same can be said for athena really. if you buy a BB30 bike though just go with force.

Merged.

As you simply do not need two threads on the same topic.

_________________
Baum Ristretto, Baum Mondrian Corretto & the '89 Merckx! | "If you could eat it in one sitting, hold your line." | twitter.com/Tinea_Pedis

yes I am, and That is exactly the plan.
I might even wait until i have more money.
Im not expected to return until winter, (in SoCal do ill be riding right away) And might wait a few months to get my legs back.


I REALLY do appreciate all you guys' opinions and suggestions.

Trends:
Bike Fit. Several have said to get a good fit.
I have, i have had my Cervelo fitted several times by 'better' shops in NYC and SoCal (the last one barely rotated the bars, so its safe to say the fit is close to perfect) and am extremeley comfortable with its fit.

I had the felt fit at the shop i puchased it in, and then 700 miles later at a 'better' shop (again, barely any adj, perfectly comfortable)

Keep it up though i have nothing but time to think and ponder.

Thank you Sir.

_________________
http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/ ... ee-z5.html

Sell your F5, use your $2300 in conjuction with the money you made selling your Felt and buy a bike you really wanted with the right gruppo. If you don't plan on racing, forget the powertap. It's not worth the money. Buy some bling parts. Like wheels, you'll feel that instantly. Or if you want to get better shifters upgrade to 6700 Ultegra shifter and get a Ultegra rear derailuer. I wouldn't buy a sram group ever, after riding several red and force equipped bikes, I have come to the conclusion that Sram sucks and shifts like crap. ( the crowd was right!!!)
Shimano and Campy forever!!