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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:40 pm
Posts: 231
Location: England
A few questions on building this frameset.....

1. The internal cable housing that runs along the rear chainstay to the rear mech......does this stay in place and cut to the correct lenth or is it simply there to act as a guide/route for the rear mech cable? It seems their's a lot of surplus inner cable housing on display.
2. when inserting the triloble threads and face washer to the zed crank do you tighten the pedal to press the formentioned items into the crank arms, also im guessing these are meant to be quite a snug fit, and wont be as easy to remove by hand, as seen on the look demo video.
3. Any other tips for building this complex frameset.

Cheer guys and girls......


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Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:46 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:40 pm
Posts: 231
Location: England
I'll get my coat....... :|


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:42 pm 
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Posts: 133
there's lots of excess cable guide but it's useful.

i trimmed what came out of the chainstay so it ran just past the under bb cable guide and what came out of the downtube to about 1cm away from that - i then used a mtb cable housing sleeve (kind of like what is shown on the barrel adjuster here: Image) to join the two - thus the cable isn't exposed until the rear derail.

yeah, the trilobes are held in place by the pedals - they need a good bit of torque and i recommend liberal application marine grade anti-sieze on the trilobes themselves - you DO NOT want them to get stuck.

also be aware that there is no metal prep on the bb - i'd pull it out and grease up what you can (assuming you don't have the custom tools for extracting/inserting the bearings).

the bearings also seat - so after the first 100 or so miles readjust to take out any play.

headset is amazingly complicated for what it is but it really is easy to deal with and completely ignore-able once set and it's kind of nice not having to worry about centering the stem since it's keyed.

oh - no the stem the side covers are VERY VERY fragile, use a very light hand when tightening them.

enjoy your ride!

_________________
thanks,
nick


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:40 pm
Posts: 231
Location: England
Cheers.....thanks for the reply, it's certainly shaping up.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 8:47 pm
Posts: 882
Location: durp durp durp
Steve_W wrote:
I'll get my coat....... :|


Come on play nice, its not like your paying for the info is it....

If you search on the postings you will quickly see there are only a handful of 695 owners on here, mostly with English as 2nd language. You would get more response if it was a r5 or c59... but hopefully that's part of the thing your buying into.

If you have a concern over building a 3k+ frame frankly you should let a professional do it for you, its a fraction of the purchase cost & that way it will be done correctly.

If they are cutting the ISP for you, pls do check that its left flush, every frame I've seen with the E-post ISP has a non-level cut line which just isn't right if you want the e-post to sit right. They usually need levelling off with a file to get it so it sits snug, but its something everyone seems to miss.



As for the cable guide length query - I recently replaced the guides on a 595. Decided to leave the guides as long as possible (1cm clearance before RD cable slot at c/stay) to help keep crud out. I would recommend you don't lube the cable guides as this attracts & slows cable movement - if they begin to slow, just replace cables - you should be good for 10-15k kms at least before that comes around though.

On the stem cover as noted in the last post, you will see from earlier ww posts that it will easily crack. 1NM tension at best, just enough to hold it otherwise it will / does crack. If you are on friendly terms with your frame seller / retailer perhaps consider asking for a spare now just in case & so you have it on hand when the inevitable happens.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 12:19 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:25 am
Posts: 573
Location: Gold Coast Australia
Tim's right, re us foreigners owning 695's, I'm Welsh, living in Australia, so by that token English is my third language (and if you take my inability to type in account, arguably not even that...)
Re the 695, i lft a small gap between the down tube gudie and the chainstay guide to allow or independant movement, i did not want a flexible cable outer impacting the effective length of the inner and impacting the shift quality.
Speaking of which ensure the down tube guides ar not crossed over in the frame as if they ar when you shift one mech, the tension of the outer across the other line effects its shift buggering up your gears... a prick to find and an incorrect fit from factory on mine, 10 second fix when you know whats caused it...
Re the stem assy, i'd recommend a strip and grease around the bearing preload collar and bearing assy as it is a trap for sweat and ten corrosion which then lifts the paint off the aluminium bearing seat cup... not pretty, also worth stripping and cleaning a couple of times a year if you ride in the wet or a sweaty climate (Tropical queensland has proven a good testing ground for this...)
RE the Stem clamp area, i'd suggest some carbon paste on the expander wedge faces and the steerer tube, helps it torque down and then reduces likelihood of creaking when it beds in /gets loaded up later.
All good info re the cover caps, gently...
Re the seat post, when you cut leave a mm above the height you need, fit the e-post and then as stated either file of dremmel wheel the high points off to get a flush fit.
Again do not over torque the e-post expander bolt, it ony needs to create a little load on the elastomers to create grip, no more...
The Saddle clamp in Carbon, its worth roughing he saddle rail channel contact points and using grease on the clamp bolt , tighten to recommended torqre, but don't be surprised if the saddle slips as the clamp beds in.. mark your saddle rails and inspect every couple of rides for the first 1000kms of so, (2 weeks say..)
Re the lobes, i couldn't get the rear of the lobe (on the insdie face of the crank arm to st flush as per the instructions anywhere near the recommended torque, i did grease the threads, and carbon paste the crank inner face, but still have 0.5 - 1mm sitting proud on the rear, ( I am close to 80kgs, and these have never loosened or squeaked.. so stick to the torque rather than the physical fit condition here...)
Re the BB agree re the full strip and grease, the factory condition is a joke, and it will corrode if you do not protect it..... (Do a search on my posts and 695 BB ) and you'll get plenty of detail in fo here...
AGAIN DO NOT USE KERO / AGRESSIVE DEGREASR AROUND THE BB BEARINGS, the seals are low friction and consequently low tolerance to degreaser, you will kill your bearings and they are not the cheapest to replace... again bearing details on my other posts....
BE careful with the LOOK supplied chainring bolts, 4 of the 5 of mine popped the shoulder off the alu nut as i approached the recommended torque, (after the second one i even reconfirmed the calibration of the wrench... , seems they had a bad batch.. ) i replaced with Dura-Ace, heavier but they work...
Last point, the gear shoft cable outers where they enter the down tube seem to be acollecting point for water, and as a result if you do not flush with wd40 or similar, crud and corrocion can build up here reducing rear mech performance in particular, flush it after every wash, and on occasion dump the tension (chain on bigg ring rear,, shift to smallest cog without rotating rear wheel etc etc) and lift the cable up and out wiping and lubing this area...
Other than that, watch for the paint, which seems to be a remarkable combination of soft ebnough tto mark, yet flaky enough to chip off also... (good work LOOK...)
Crank arm ends in particular are prone when front wheel is out.. (I noticed COFIDIS were also like this... )
Hope any of this helps...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:40 pm
Posts: 231
Location: England
Great info from you all, many thanks.....I'm a more then confident building this frameset having built and cut 4 look 595's now, it's just easier/safer to ensure you've got all areas confirmed or explained.
I'll keep you all updated with the build progress.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 1:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 8
Epic thread resuscitation here!

There was mention above of using DA chainring bolts because of snapping the fragile Look ones...yeah I've done that too but being a doofus lost a couple of the washers in the process. Anybody found a suitable replacement?

Another question - I thought I might play with the stem angle...removed the (yes fragile) covers and ...do you think I could make any sense of the instructions? Nah...

Is there more than one model of the C stem out there?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 3:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:03 am
Posts: 67
Welcome to L@@K 695.

I hate the BB as it is always giving me the click click sound when I stand up to pedal and the next thing for me is to install the DA crank with BSA BB.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 4:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 8
haha...I removed a DA crank that was installed on mine (bought it second hand) and reinstalled the Zed (which was also provided).

Haven't had clicking though. I actually like it..stiff and light and looks hot (I'm shallow!)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 5:04 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:47 am
Posts: 713
Location: Albuquerque, NM
schroeds wrote:
Epic thread resuscitation here!

There was mention above of using DA chainring bolts because of snapping the fragile Look ones...yeah I've done that too but being a doofus lost a couple of the washers in the process. Anybody found a suitable replacement?

Another question - I thought I might play with the stem angle...removed the (yes fragile) covers and ...do you think I could make any sense of the instructions? Nah...

Is there more than one model of the C stem out there?

Thanks!

Yes. There is an older C-stem that has a spacer you can flip around to make your stem 110 or 100mm. There is a newer Aerostem that is coming with 795s and 675s (I think). If you go to Youtube, there is a ton of videos Look made that show you how to work on the Zed BB, stem adjustment, and cutting the seat mast. Good videos.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 11:33 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:40 am
Posts: 23
Location: Slovenia, Europe
madonna wrote:
Welcome to L@@K 695.
I hate the BB as it is always giving me the click click sound when I stand up to pedal and the next thing for me is to install the DA crank with BSA BB.


I had similar problems with clicking and other annoying sounds. Fixed that. :thumbup:
First, you have to grease outside of the chainring bolts, where they make contact with carbon, you also have to use loctite on the threads.
That will eliminate every possible squeaking on the chainrings. Then, you have to check 61810 2RS bearings. Look uses Chines Enduro Blue bearings for around 30 EUR per SET and sell them as spare parts for 80 EUR... :unbelievable:
I totally clean mine every season and relubrict them with some quality grease, like SKF.
http://pictures.content4us.com/products ... -04196.JPG
You also have to use loctite on the outer ring, when tightening the ZED crank. Before, crank got some play every 500-1.000km and starts to make clicking sound.
That procedure will guarantee the silent ZED crankset.
You can also get some quality bearings like:
-61810 2RS SKF
http://www.123roulement.com/EN/bearing- ... S-SKF.html
-61810 2RS EZO (Japan)

Or something more exotic.... :beerchug:
http://ceramicspeed.com/sport/products/ ... OK,-Coated


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:03 am
Posts: 67
tomyboy123 wrote:
madonna wrote:
Welcome to L@@K 695.
I hate the BB as it is always giving me the click click sound when I stand up to pedal and the next thing for me is to install the DA crank with BSA BB.


I had similar problems with clicking and other annoying sounds. Fixed that. :thumbup:
First, you have to grease outside of the chainring bolts, where they make contact with carbon, you also have to use loctite on the threads.
That will eliminate every possible squeaking on the chainrings. Then, you have to check 61810 2RS bearings. Look uses Chines Enduro Blue bearings for around 30 EUR per SET and sell them as spare parts for 80 EUR... :unbelievable:
I totally clean mine every season and relubrict them with some quality grease, like SKF.
http://pictures.content4us.com/products ... -04196.JPG
You also have to use loctite on the outer ring, when tightening the ZED crank. Before, crank got some play every 500-1.000km and starts to make clicking sound.
That procedure will guarantee the silent ZED crankset.
You can also get some quality bearings like:
-61810 2RS SKF
http://www.123roulement.com/EN/bearing- ... S-SKF.html
-61810 2RS EZO (Japan)

Or something more exotic.... :beerchug:
http://ceramicspeed.com/sport/products/ ... OK,-Coated


How long does your BB bearing last? I m just a weekend warrior and my latest enduro bearing cannot survive for more than 1/2 year. This is a great bike but those L@@K innovation does not last and I am thinking to switch back to my DA crank for easier maintenance.

My last creaking noise was due to the headset with plenty of dust and sand.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:40 am
Posts: 23
Location: Slovenia, Europe
madonna wrote:
How long does your BB bearing last? I m just a weekend warrior and my latest enduro bearing cannot survive for more than 1/2 year. This is a great bike but those L@@K innovation does not last and I am thinking to switch back to my DA crank for easier maintenance.

After 2.5 season with around 18.000km I still have first chinese ENDURO bearings.
Probably they are at the end, but I will try another season, because there is still no clicking sound present. Important thing is maintenance.
If am honest, I totally clean and regrease this bearings 2-3 times in one season. Maybe this is the solution, for lasting that long and of course not raiding in the rain.


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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:51 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 3:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 8
I just ordered some Boca bb bearings...the previous cheap chinese ones only lasted 6 months.

Boca is pretty low end spec, but at us $ 100 appx, still hopefully last a while


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