Campag Power torque 'creak'

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bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

The clicking with ultratorque is a common problem. I have customer at the moment with a chorus group with this issues. My first attempt of dismatling everything and reassembling resolved the issue for a while but it has returned. Next step is to try a second wavy washer if that does not resolve it then I can always try spacers between the NDS cup and the shell. I might try that first instead, I wioll have to see the bike first.

That goes for power torque to. If your clicking is combined with some lateral crank movement (press on NDS arm to see) then adding spacers may help.

Monkeyboy3333
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by Monkeyboy3333

bm0p700f wrote:The clicking with ultratorque is a common problem. I have customer at the moment with a chorus group with this issues. My first attempt of dismatling everything and reassembling resolved the issue for a while but it has returned. Next step is to try a second wavy washer if that does not resolve it then I can always try spacers between the NDS cup and the shell. I might try that first instead, I wioll have to see the bike first.

That goes for power torque to. If your clicking is combined with some lateral crank movement (press on NDS arm to see) then adding spacers may help.


Where can you source spacers, no luck with google at my end.....

by Weenie


bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

1mm cassette spacers are available as a shimano spare these would fit ut maybe too thick. Would lock ring spacers be of the right I.D, probably not.

Wheels manufacturing's accelerator cassettes have a 0.3mm spacer. So e-mail them and they should be able to provide you with some. They also do 0.7mm spacers but these do not appear to be available seperatley either. I think the play is in the order of 0.5-0.7mm so the wmfg spacers would work.

You could make your own out of several sheets of alu foil. May take a while though and may not be very neat.

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bikerjulio
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by bikerjulio

Clicking under heavy load will occur if the retaining clip is not properly installed on the DS cup. This is what retains the crankset, and stops it shifting slightly to the right under load.

Nobody should be adding spacers without first checking that the BB shell width is within spec.

If Italian it's 70mm +/- 0.8mm.

English is 68mm +/- 0.8mm.

If all is properly installed and within spec then I'd be looking elsewhere. My experience has been that about 95% of what I believed to be crankset/BB problems turned out to be pedals or something else.
Last edited by bikerjulio on Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Unfortunatley I have seen bikes where the shell is in spec and creaking remains even though everything is installed by the book and it's not pedals, seat e.t.c.

I have also had the problems that a new spring clip casued a click but when replaced with an old one the click went away.
This is a common problem.

Frankie13
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by Frankie13

Talked to a mechanic today who works at the LBS about facing the bb shell and he looked at me and tokd me he has never heard about it.
What tool has to be used to face the shell?
I have that clicking sound on my 2012 Dogma2 with a 2012 SR 11 titanium crank. I already disassembled it once and regreased everything including the chainring bolts, and added a second washer but after a while the ticking returns. I also changed the skewers and applied some grease to the dropouts but no luck so far. I ride 11speed since the first day it was available and this is the first time I have that issue. My 2012 Canyon Ultimate CF has 11speed as well (Chorus) without any issues and is nice and quit. Tomorrow I will degrease the BB cups and use Loctite to secure the cups and Loctite copper based anti-seize lubricant for the crank bolt. If this doesn't take care of the problem I will run my Truck over the Dogma and keep riding my lovely Canyon.

Tricky1
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by Tricky1

To the OP and others with similar issues: I had a similar creak/tick with each revolution on my 2011 SR, and under load it was more pronounced. What sounded like a drivetrain "tick" was eliminated by a combination of cleaning and regreasing the pedal internals/threads, chainring bolts, both hubs/skewers and repacking the freehub body (preexisting pawl issue). It's amazing how much noise was coming from the pedals btw. Since the maintenance all has been quieted! Thanks to those who offered their advice!

Monkeyboy3333
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by Monkeyboy3333

Tricky1 wrote:To the OP and others with similar issues: I had a similar creak/tick with each revolution on my 2011 SR, and under load it was more pronounced. What sounded like a drivetrain "tick" was eliminated by a combination of cleaning and regreasing the pedal internals/threads, chainring bolts, both hubs/skewers and repacking the freehub body (preexisting pawl issue). It's amazing how much noise was coming from the pedals btw. Since the maintenance all has been quieted! Thanks to those who offered their advice!


Thanks man, have time set aside this weekend to do all the above and see if this cracks it! cheers

szazbo
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by szazbo

This has long been an issue that makes you search all over the bike looking for a solution. Takes a while for the noise to start when new, maybe has to create wear in the cup. All of the dimensions were correct and the BB was faced. Everything solution seems to work for a short while then reoccurs. My solution after trying all kinds of lubricant in the BB cups was a little different. I took it apart for the umpteenth time was to clean all the grease from the cups and the outside of the bearings. Put a thin film of med strength red Loctite on the OD of the bearings and also the ID of the cups. Don't over do it. Slide everything together and reassemble and torque normally. Let sit for 2 days. I did this on 2 of my bikes over 2 years ago and the noise never came back and to this day the bearings are smooth. One of the bikes has S&S couplers and to pack the bike, the crank needs to be removed. It took a small amount of persuasion to get the cranks out, and I had to clean the remnants of the Loctite before reassembly but there continues to be nice and quiet.

Tricky1
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by Tricky1

szazbo wrote:This has long been an issue that makes you search all over the bike looking for a solution. Takes a while for the noise to start when new, maybe has to create wear in the cup. All of the dimensions were correct and the BB was faced. Everything solution seems to work for a short while then reoccurs. My solution after trying all kinds of lubricant in the BB cups was a little different. I took it apart for the umpteenth time was to clean all the grease from the cups and the outside of the bearings. Put a thin film of med strength red Loctite on the OD of the bearings and also the ID of the cups. Don't over do it. Slide everything together and reassemble and torque normally. Let sit for 2 days. I did this on 2 of my bikes over 2 years ago and the noise never came back and to this day the bearings are smooth. One of the bikes has S&S couplers and to pack the bike, the crank needs to be removed. It took a small amount of persuasion to get the cranks out, and I had to clean the remnants of the Loctite before reassembly but there continues to be nice and quiet.

You make a valid point. Creaks, ticks, etc... are hard to diagnose, and once repaired the issue returns sometimes. I guess time will tell if the steps I took work in the long run? Until then I'll enjoy ride!

Frankie13
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by Frankie13

I will take my Crank, BB cups of the bike again on Friday and remove all the grease and will use Loctite to secure the BB cups this time. I was wondering if I can use Loctite copper based anti-seize lubricant inside the BB cups instead of the Park grease I normally use?

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tommasini
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by tommasini

[quote="Frankie13"]Talked to a mechanic today who works at the LBS about facing the bb shell and he looked at me and tokd me he has never heard about it.
What tool has to be used to face the shell?
quote]

First - if that mechanic has never heard of that then that mechanic is not to be relied upon..........

Frankie13
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by Frankie13

Looked up the tool and it's not cheap. It was made by Park Tools.
He is not a bad mechanic who helps out after school but still has a lot to learn.

szazbo
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by szazbo

If you want to try my method, dont use any antisieze. Just med strength red loctite in sparingly amounts on the outside of the bearing race and a film inside of the cup. You will ride it and about 6 months from now, realize...hey I havent heard that noise in a long time!

Frankie13
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by Frankie13

Ok , had time this afternoon and took of the crank, pedals and bb cups. I cleaned and degreased all the threats with alcohol and a toothbrush and made sure all the parts are sparkling. This time I decided to install the bb cups with Loctite 222 and tightened them with 30Nm (Campy manual says hand tight when Loctite is used) I didn't trust only hand tight. I lightly greased the inside of the cups and only used one wave washer and left the second that I added before out. I used Loctite anti-seize lubricant for the crank bolt and the pedals and installed the clip. I must say the threats of the pedals looked a little dry and I was wondering if this wasn't the source of the clicking noise. I will wait until Saturday to give the Loctite enough time to dry before I will take the Dogma out for a 5+ hour ride and hope all we be quit like all my other Campy bikes have been.

by Weenie


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