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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:22 am
Posts: 84
Hello everyone,

I'm currently using newton shallow and am interested in giving zero100 a try. This is how I set up my 6700 and newton shallow.

Image

Can anyone tell me approximately the difference in handlebar reach between them? Deda's website listed zero100 as R: 75mm and newton shallow R: 80mm, but given that I'm tilting the shallows slightly upward and the shifter position is lower on the shallow, would it be okay to assume that the zero100 will result in 1~2 cm of less reach? I'm planning to set up the zero with the top parallel to the ground.

Thanks a lot!


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:35 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm
Posts: 876
My guess is the Deda zero will result in more reach. That is because on the shallow you have the levers mounted on the ramp- the ramp is angled back and being up on the ramp they come back at you.
On the Zero the spot for lever mount is angled differently and more squared off- so the levers do not come back at you the same way.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:45 pm
Posts: 3266
Location: Natovi Landing
I've got both bars in operation (seperate bikes :wink: ) ... it's not safe to assume less reach on the Zeros. I've found the effective reach slightly longer on the Zeros. One reason is that they are a bit wider (at the hoods).

They are also flexier, and no question that the Newton is a better all round bar.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 6:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:40 pm
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Location: Lenart, Slovenia EUROPE
I had the Newton bar and now I use the zero100 bar. You will need a longer stem for the zero bar if you wanna have "the same" position as with the newtons.

The top of the zero bars are wider, bilkier than the classic shaped newton.

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TREK Madone 5.9 SL #7
ex COLNAGO C50


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2009 6:16 pm
Posts: 9
That shallow bar setup you posted is awesome! I never could get mine to look that good. . .

I switched from a deda shallow to the zero100. I found that the levers were best mounted higher up on the bar, which effectively shortened the reach. I put a 1cm longer stem on to keep the reach the same.

Compared to your existing setup, it's hard to say. I would hazard that the levers will be higher up on the bar if you want the tops to be level, which would mean the reach would be shortened. Slightly.

The shapes of these bars are quite different: the shallow drop has a "wider" (more obtuse) angle between tops and drops, whereas the zero100 has a more acute angle (with the zero100, you can set the tops level and the drops will be close to level; with the shallow if the tops are level the drops are at a crazy angle . . . )

Disclaimer: I ride with campy levers, so your mileage may vary!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:56 pm 
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Location: Lenart, Slovenia EUROPE
dmleft wrote:
with the shallow if the tops are level the drops are at a crazy angle . . . )

... and a reach of 130 mm or something :D

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TREK Madone 5.9 SL #7
ex COLNAGO C50


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:27 am
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Hi guys, this is my first post here, been lurking for a while.

I went through exactly this a couple of months ago - moved from Deda Newton shallow to Deda Zero 100. I threw an overlay picture together to help me decide. It should be clear which is which. Hope that helps.

Ant


Attachments:
Deda bar comparison.jpg
Deda bar comparison.jpg [ 37.26 KiB | Viewed 3451 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 6:12 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:57 pm
Posts: 621
Location: NYC
Ants, I like the overlay pic. Can you tell us whether those are pics of actual bars and are both taken at same scale? I ask only because the Zero 100 appears like a stock photo. Thanks,
EM3


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:19 pm
Posts: 900
Location: South Carolina
I went thru this myself, but with Ritchey bars. The bends are very similar to Deda with respect to the Ritchey classics and the Ritchey Curve. What I found was I really prefer the classics. I like how they look and feel better. I could never get used to the Curves, so I traded them to a friend, who loves them. Go figure. If you are satisfied with the Shallows, why switch?

HUMP

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:01 am 
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I would say that 2009 was "year of the handlebar" for me.
I tried Ritchey classic (a re-try), Zipp traditional, Pro Vibe traditional, Easton SLX3 (re-try), Deda Zero 100, Easton Pro Equipe traditonal (re-try), FSA Energy Classic. Deda Newton classics but only for about 1 day.
I ended up with the Specialized classic bend this year, I really like it.
Problem with anything anatomic of semi-anatomc is hoods end up far away, there are really no bottoms to the bar, and only 1 real position in the drops.
Classic bars have a nive flat on the bottom, many good spots in the drops, and depending on the bar they have lots of places that the levers work on.
My biggest problem with bars has been the SRAM levers. On many bars they start to twist and get funky as you move them higher on the bar. For example they need to be quite low on a Ritchey classic.
Other problem is cable routing. The SRAM shifting can be bad on bars that have a really squared off top like an Easton SLX3 or Deda zero.
All in all I like classic bars the best.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 2:21 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:27 am
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I used stock photos from a popular online retailer. I got the drop measurements, aligned the pictures according to Deda's own diagrams and scaled them according to the drop - so they should be the same scale. I double checked by a visual against the bars themselves. Then I rotated the images to reflect how they are actually fitted on my bike.

I run Campag 11 and really like the way the Zero 100 works with that. I have the shifters centred on the gritty bit of the bars, which I guess is exactly where they intend you to put them. It's absolutely perfect when going for the brakes, there's plenty of length in the drops and a flatter transition from bars to hoods. The bottom of the drops for me is further back which is nice, and I no longer have to compromise between getting the top angle and drop angle right. You can see from the pic that there's a fair bit less reach, which surprised me in that I really like it. I did go to a 10mm longer stem but the reach is still a bit shorter and I'm loving it. I wouldn't go back.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:22 am
Posts: 84
Thanks a lot everyone for all your suggestions! Looks like it's really set-up dependent and I could either end up with more or less reach by swapping to the Zero. I guess the best way is to do an overlay image like Ants did!

@Ants do you by any chance still have the source files before you overlapped them?

I like everything about the newton shallow, but I want to use a longer stem to increase my reach to the tops of the handlebars. This is why I wanted to give the zero a try. :)

Thanks for all the help!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:09 pm
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Location: Aix en Provence
Your newton are setup exactly right in your picture. I believe that the Zero will result in the hoods beeing higher by at least 1cm.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:45 pm
Posts: 3266
Location: Natovi Landing
farbound wrote:


I like everything about the newton shallow, but I want to use a longer stem to increase my reach to the tops of the handlebars. This is why I wanted to give the zero a try. :)

Thanks for all the help!


Having got both bars in operation I don't think you'll find what you're looking for with the Zero. The greater width at teh hoods offsets any supposedly shorter reach. They feel bigger all round, not smaller.

I was actually surprised by this as I expected the Zeros to be a Deda version of the FSA compacts or at least fairly similar. They aren't.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 4:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:22 am
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sawyer wrote:

Having got both bars in operation I don't think you'll find what you're looking for with the Zero. The greater width at teh hoods offsets any supposedly shorter reach. They feel bigger all round, not smaller.

I was actually surprised by this as I expected the Zeros to be a Deda version of the FSA compacts or at least fairly similar. They aren't.


Thanks sawyer. I just checked your set-up of the newton shallow, you seem to tilt it a bit more upward than I do. If even your set-up doesn't yield reduced reach by going to the zeros, mine certainly won't. Thanks a lot! :)


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Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 4:38 am 


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