Also curious to hear how this happened.

I don't understand why you guys are assuming this happened in any sort of accident. The stresses on the top tube are big, especially when you are traveling over rough roads, the frame will bend vertically and the top tube is not only long but also almost parralel to the ground so the stresses are big especially in the middle of it and this is where the crack is.

I think it was Kuipers (he's not here any longer, I think) who had almost identical crack happen on his Ultimate F10 Canyon during a race (that's how Ultimate CF was called back then in 2006 or 07) within two weeks after he bought it. It was then replaced without any questions by Canyon.

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A light bike does replace good fitness.

We (PARLEE) have never seen a crack on the top tube of any Z5 or Z5 SL (or Z1/2/3/4 for that matter) that was not related to impact or crushing forces, however we never pass judgment based on photos until we can see it with our own eyes. We will inspect it within 24h of receiving it here and get back to you immediately with options for repair or replacement, regardless of warranty status. We are curious to hear what has happened.

To OP: Feel free to contact me personally on 1-978-998-4880 or via email on this to discuss in detail.

tom at parleecycles dot com

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http://www.parleecycles.com

The speculation is pretty simply because these types of cracks are are almost always user error...

An eyeball measure puts the bars VERY close to the right measure and or a clamp accident is a very safe guess. Past that, dropping things or coming off the saddle ad flopping on the top tube and or simple accidents.

A lot safer guess than a center tube crack that probably represents less than 1% or legitimate failures in the center of a proper carbon tube, and the z5 tube set is a proper carbon tube with a range of motion for twist that would require the bike to be bent a lot further... And in that case the tube likely would have cracked further back.

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charles@pezcyclingnews.com

In working with custom frame builders to select certain tubing for frames, I've learned that the most highly stressed areas on a bike frame are head-tube, down-tube and drivetrain stays. The top-tube is actually the lease stressed (with exceptions of the tube junctions)

Road vibration and impact usually travels along the length of the tube and is more concentrated at the tube junctions. Stress on the tubes is also not uniform around the whole tube, and is usually far more concentrated on one side or the other.

For this crack to be on the side of the top-tube, in the near middle, is really an awkward place for a stress point to form. I'm not doubting what you're saying, but at the same time... I understand if you need to hold your claim that this damage was in no way caused by human error or misuse. Parlee is really OCD about their tube quality, but I cant help but to think the only other cause would have been a defect in the tubing.

Question- Does the crack seem to be bulging outward or concaving inward in any way?

The top tube on my Storck F0.6 cracked in almost the same place but it was 100% my fault. Or my daughter caused it by accident. She was walking past it and caught her jumper on a brake lever. The frame fell over and hit a nearby wooden bed frame. I keep the bike in the spare bedroom. I wanted to keep it in my bedroom but my wife wouldn't let me.

Storck took pity and have been amazing. I'm getting a new frame under their crash replacement policy. Still having to pay something but it's a lot less than a new one. Should be back on my beloved Storck by the end of the month. Still at least my R5 is getting a look in.

no, those stresses would manifest in a crack much closer to the head tube.

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Definitely looks like user error damage to me...my guess is that the OP slipped off his saddle while on a ride, landed on his top tube and cracked it with his coccyx.

I just don't understand how anyone could ride their bike with their saddle nose tilted -30 degrees.

EM3

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My 2011 Cervelo R5

And this is the great sadness I feel with carbon- it simply seems unable to take side or top knocks. I'll be a steelist forever i feel even though I'm getting my weight down to hopefully the correct level by summer's end.

Hi , I am just curious about your saddle angle. Do you not slide forward all the time ? Can you ride no hands?
Does the saddle just flex so much that you are balanced?

I bet the saddle would be much more comfortable and level, if the seat post was 4cm lower

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Bike Pure

its probably for nether comfort. get an smp if you can afford a parlee.

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I cant ride an SMP... Great quality and nice saddles but they just dont fit. suggesting saddles is like suggesting favorite colors

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charles@pezcyclingnews.com

Taking a shot in the dark...I reckon your favourite colour is GREEN

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"It never gets easier, you just go faster..." - Greg Lemond

"Because technology alone is a poor substitute for experience." - Richard Sachs

this guys saddle angle though.

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