I am a long time reader/lurker, 1st time poster. Probably just too shy to admit that I am really a Weight Weenie, but I think I am...

I currently have a Powertap PRO+ with 28 spokes and the Velocity Aerohead OC rim - 1066 grams. If have been very happy with it, but I would like to lighten up. I am doing Mt Washington and Mt Evans this year and the powertap is worth its weight to me for pacing, but it would be worth less weight even more, right?

I had been thinking of a Powertap G3 with the Stans Rim. My wheel builder suggested doing 2 to 1 spoking for 24 spokes (2X DS, 1X NDS) - using a 32 spoke hub skipping every other hole on the non-drive side. He thinks that the Stans rim doesn't build up well with symmetrical spokes on a powertap because the NDS spokes have too low a tension and since they are the ones doing all the driving on the powertap, it wouldn't stay in true.

The problem is that the cycleops people seem to think this is a bad idea - they insinuate that the power readings might be wrong because of it, although they can't really articulate why.

I love the idea because it adds up to a powertap wheel just shy of 800 grams!

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help.

I'd add that you ought to be careful with what rim you choose - most are drilled at an angle, specifically for an equal number of spokes on either side of the wheel. Not all rims, however, are like this.

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http://www.hermes-sport.com

Why mess with some un-recommended exotic ?
Check neuvation.com for some great deals on powertap custom wheels.

I like neuvation - I have one of their wheels. But this is Weight Weenies. They don't have anything that comes close in weight to what I am proposing....

Any ideas from anyone if the 2 to 1 spoking on a powertap would work?

I know that Kinlin rims are center-drilled, and thus can be done with 2:1 lacing. That clears one hurdle, however there is the risk of your power readings being inaccurate, as Saris says. I'm not really in a position of expertise regarding the peculiarities of the Powertap design.

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http://www.hermes-sport.com

The torque tube on a Powertap hub is indeed attached to the NDS side of the shell... but the shell is very sturdy and can easily transfer torque from either side of the wheel. The only source of error I can see is if the shell twists significantly more than Saris assumes in their calibration. So you might experience a tiny offset in the reading, but it should be consistent.

I agree with your builder on the lacing pattern for that hub. Triplet (2 to 1 lacing) would only be advisable for the G3 IMO... since the NDS/DS spacing is 38/17.4 on that one. The Pro (and older PT hubs) are 33.9/15.9 and I usually lace them 1x heads in on the DS, and 2x NDS.

Do you think that a Powertap Pro 2012 hub (24 holes) with Campagnolo Neutron (Ultra) rim would be strong/durable enough for a 76-77 kg rider?

No.

That's what I thought too.

Interested in whether the OP (or anyone really) - has successfully done something similar ... mating a 32-hole Powertap G3 to a 24H Stans 340 Rim - alternating every-other on NDS (or even just going 32) ?

I can get a pretty good deal on a pair of Cycleops G3 Alloy Wheels - but would like to just sell the front - and get the back re-laced to a lighter rim / spokes.

I'm 6ft/150lbs ... a climber ... definitely *NOT* a sprinter ! But also don't want to spend hours after each ride re-truing either.

Thanks !
-Tim

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My Ride - Parlee Z5

@Tim- I'm not too sure about that build. The 340 is quite a soft rim and in that hole count (with the poor flange spacing of the Ptap) you will more than likely have a very soft wheel that will require excessive maintenance.
If your stuck on going with the 340, get it in the 32 hole count. The extra spokes sure won't hurt.
I would recommend going with a stiffer hoop though.

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http://www.zencyclery.com

http://www.wheelbuilder.org

Just use an Open Pro with 28 spokes. It is nothing fancy, but it is bombproof. I think the reliability factor of it could be more beneficial than shaving 50g off the rim weight. Not to mention it would be a stiff wheel - unlike many light weight rims in the market today *cough* Stans * cough*

True. All though your really polishing a turd with regards to the flange spacing on the Powertap.

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http://www.zencyclery.com

http://www.wheelbuilder.org

I really like the 23mm rim from BHS. Or if you have more money then get some Hed C2. Neither are WW though.

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"It doesn't get easier, you just go faster"

http://bb2stem.blogspot.com.au/

The new 340s have offset drilling so that won't work...

The offsets on the G3 are pretty decent for triplet, and the 340 (even the old ones) are stiff for what they weigh. I weigh 20lbs more than you and have been fine with an old 24h 340 for 10k miles (normal lacing to an Orc).

Probably the lightest/best rim for triplet would be the XR270.

Wait... just checked my stock and I have an old 340... weighs ~360g. PM if interested.

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formerly rruff...