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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 5:11 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:26 am
Posts: 414
Location: California's country side
Hi, I was trying to setup my Yaw FD with old Force.
I initally setup with the lines, the front and back line aren't even inline with each other, just about want to ignore these lines, so I did the best I could but ended up moving the FD up and down a few more times I am at a lost of what yaw should be set in the small ring position, since the yaw of the FD is different in the big ring after shifting.

Right now in the small ring it has the back end outwards just slightly, is this the best geometry?

I still have about 10% instance of dragging chain and doesn't want to go up. I have full length housing and no barrel so that makes it a bit challenging. I did find I needed to use a 3rd hand tool to get enough tension before pinching the bolt down.


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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 5:11 am 


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 6:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1969
Location: NoVA/DC
why dont you want to use the lines?
so far, with old sram cranks i have erred slightly tail-out from their guidelines. my reasoning is that if the derailleur were to keep moving out to where the outer ring is on the newred crank, it would then center on that ring... then it sets up well.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 6:53 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:26 am
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Location: California's country side
I did use the lines in the beginning, out of the box the inner limit screw is turned in alot, but after I install the chain I moved it a couple times and I lost that reference.. plus on my FD the rear line look crooked relative to the front one, not sure why.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 6:57 am 
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Location: NoVA/DC
the front part of the rear line is crooked. i find that extremely annoying.
you can screw the inner limit back in a bunch until the front and rear lines are over the big ring at the same time-no big deal. even if you choose to position it differently, it's still the best reference.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 11:22 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:26 am
Posts: 426
Location: USA
If you go to the Sram website and go into 2012 Sram. You will find the front derailleur, in there on the bottom is a neat video that lays all the set-up out for you.

You watch that video and if you are somewhat mechanical you will nail it. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:56 pm
Posts: 248
follow the instructions to the letter...it won't make sense and won't work if you try to set it up like a non-yaw fd. since it works differently, it needs to be set up according to the instructions. everyone who has done it as per the instructions has had success. why do anything different?


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 2:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 4:17 am
Posts: 188
Also, get an inline barrel adjuster. It will make set up much easier.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:26 am
Posts: 414
Location: California's country side
Thanks for the tip on the video. I didn't understand the written instructions :oops:
I redid it using the video, still the back line on the unit isn't straight like in the video, but I did try to make it.

It shifts pretty good now, the only time I have problems is if I pedal too slow it will drag in the middle.
The lever is still very stiff and that's a problem with my full length housing.

I don't have any room for a barrel because the only cable exposed is a sharp arc from my internal handlebar going into the toptube.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Finland
durkonion wrote:
Also, get an inline barrel adjuster. It will make set up much easier.


I would say that you have to use inline barrel adjuster or you're extremely lucky if you get correct cable tension without it.

Watch that Sram instruction video, I didn't even bother to read instructions after watching the video.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:26 am
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Location: USA
+1000 the video is very good and it explains the whole set-up as it should be installed.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 10:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:33 pm
Posts: 78
Also +1 for the video. Worth spending time watching it a couple of times before you get started.

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 10:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 31
The video instruction was great. But I was wondering what would you do if you wanted to transfer the derailleur to another bike?

I wish I had taken a close up photo of the limit screws and counted the threads or number of turns.

I can remember approximately where the factory setting is but not exactly.

Oh well. Whoever reads this you may want to take note. :welcome:

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 11:18 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:26 am
Posts: 426
Location: USA
You would just back off the high limit screws and turn in the low limit screws till the lines would be correct...set your height. Then your final set is required.

I have installed and reinstalled several new derailleurs. It does take more time than the old school Red, but it is well worth it. Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:26 am
Posts: 414
Location: California's country side
Also, I setup the chain catcher that was included.

I originally had it set closest to the chain ring bolts but noticed the closest it can get is the small ring / big cog in the back.
Is that the right way, I didn't have time to finish the video :oops:

And final question: when operating the SRAM left lever do you guys just give it one quick flick or do you hold the lever up until shifting is done?


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Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:42 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:23 pm
Posts: 36
Quick flick... by the time I reach the end of the throw the chain has already gone up.

That's with the full 2012 Red setup, so results might be slightly less consistent with other setups.


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