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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:38 pm
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Location: Greater Pittsburgh
I know that PowerTap recommends to have 2x lacing on the non-drive side due to torque measurements being done on that side.

With that in mind, can you lace a PowerTap SL into a 24 hole rim that is currently laced 2x drive and radial non-drive (I have an extra Real Design SuperSonic 60)?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:55 pm 
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Powertap hubs should always be laced 3x all round, its a stipulation to the warranty i beleive. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:00 pm 
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They recommend 3 cross but the tech document says:

"Use at least a two-cross pattern on both sides of the hub. Due to the design of the hub, the load path is not the same as with a conventional hub. Slotting the hub flanges to accommodate bladed spokes is not recommended and will void the warranty."

Page 6

http://www.cycleops.com/pdfManuals/308.pdf


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:29 pm 
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The drive side is the side without the cassette on a powertap I did what your thinking about and I would not recomend it. To save my build I respoked it 2x drive 1x non drive with zipp 303 rims. It works fine now but IMO the traditional build is better

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:06 pm 
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rd wrote:
"Use at least a two-cross pattern on both sides of the hub. Due to the design of the hub, the load path is not the same as with a conventional hub. Slotting the hub flanges to accommodate bladed spokes is not recommended and will void the warranty."


The load path is not the same as a regular hub, but with such a stiff hub body it makes no difference so long as at least one side is crossed 2x. But... I was told that they won't warranty the hub flanges if it is not laced at least 2x on both sides... so that is something to consider. Frankly, I don't see the hub flanges failing in any case, but it would suck if they did.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:07 pm 
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rustychain wrote:
The drive side is the side without the cassette on a powertap I did what your thinking about and I would not recomend it.


Why?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:23 pm 
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WHEEL BUILDING
Contact a wheel building professional or dealer for assistance in building the PowerTap SL2.4 wheel if not purchased as a complete wheel. Both sides of the PowerTap should be built using only a 3x spoke lacing pattern. Due to the design of the hub the load pattern is not the same as a conventional hub. Slotting the hub flanges to accommodate bladed spokes is not recommended
and will void the warranty. Complete wheel building hub dimensions are listed in TABLE 2.
This was lifted out of the assembly instructions on a PDF file. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 8:20 am
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Location: n-br holland
hi,

i made my brothers power tap wheel 32 hole with an pro rim crossed 3 times, used sapim spokes, and every few rides a spoke broke just out of the nipple, when i looked at it the spoke made an angle just outisde the nipple ( sapim )

now i ve crossed the 2 times and the problem is gone.
so i think it is better 2 times crossed left and right

good luck building it

leon


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:33 pm 
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pardon my ignorance but is it even possible to lace a wheel 3x if it's a 20H or 24H PT hub?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 10:23 pm 
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Ok, thanks all. I *think* I understand the answers... I can't simply buy a 24H PT SL hub and have someone lace it to my existing rim... Oh, well... guess that means that I will need a hub AND a rim...

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 12:40 am 
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Ruff, a bunch of broken xray spokes bets you that it make a dif. Those spokes are the ones that broke after but 1200 miles when I had the hub built with the cassette as the drive side. After the rebuild no issues. I will never go this way again however. If I build a PT wheel again its going on a Lew rim IF I can get Lew and PT to agree on build specs

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 1:44 am 
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audiojan wrote:
Ok, thanks all. I *think* I understand the answers... I can't simply buy a 24H PT SL hub and have someone lace it to my existing rim... Oh, well... guess that means that I will need a hub AND a rim...


Oops! I guess nobody is answering your question directly. Unless there is something weird with the rim, the lacing pattern can be whatever you wish... it doesn't need to be the same as the original wheel.

On the other hand a new rim would be a small part of the total cost.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 1:46 am 
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rustychain wrote:
Ruff, a bunch of broken xray spokes bets you that it make a dif.


Which spokes broke? And were both builds done by the same person to the same specs?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 5:20 am 
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Built by the same guy that has built some great mtn bike wheels for me in the past. The spokes broke on the non cassette side (drive side) when laced radial. After multiple spoke failures and a bit of research the wheel was built 2x and the non cassette side (drive side actual) He simply reversed the spoke pattern. No further broken spokes. Further research show me that Zipp does not recomend 3x on the 303's, PT says you should go 3x! The whole thing was a waste IMO as I could have purchased a prebuilt that would have performed just as well and been covered by the warrenty

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 5:48 am 
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I just built a Zipp 404(24spoke) with the PT wireless hub. Prior to building it, I contacted Zipp. They said they lace them 2x on both sides. I purchased Sapim spokes from wheelbuilder.com and they also said 2x on both sides. PT says minimum of 2x on both sides. I also have a PT/Mavic open pro(32spoke) which I got direct from PT and guess what, it is 2x on both sides.


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