Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
- in the industry
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CharlesM wrote:That's the part I "see"
It's where the Rotor did good and a forged part will likely perform better still.
A forged part will also likely change the stiffness : weight. (mayne not...)
I get why it wasnt relevant as it specifically relates to the point you're trying to make.
If stiffness was still the goal. I'd buy a Red crank for less than half the money, and have a stiffer crank at only 36g more. Out of that test, I get that there are several bargains. The Red crank, and Lightning being two of them.
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Agree you'd have to be mad to buy any of the 3ds. Leaving aside from the 1990s CNC style and 1980s graphics, for good stiffness at mid weight, just get some 7800s or if you have more money the 7900s. Just the thought of catching my ankle on some jutting out part when crashing (have you seen the bb adjustment ring on a 3d+) Ouch!
My 7800s cost GBP 120 from the bay. Shifting is better than anything else barring a 7900. Even if you 'need' lower weight, better to slap on the 7800 crank and rings, then spend elsewhere.
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Does anybody know if this crank fits dura-ace bb86 press fit bearings?
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Zigmeister wrote:100grams slowing you down?
And you follow this forum..... why?
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- Location: Adelaide, Australia
How old are those graphs? Isn't the Tune SmartFoot stiffer than the FastFoot was?
2011 Scott Addict R3 (DA groupset, Tune Skyline RR wheelset, Rotor 52/36 Q-Rings)
2008 Giant Trinity A1 (cheapass 50mm carbon clinchers)
No easy road goes anywhere worth going
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