Speedplay zero adjustable question

[WasFab]

I wanted to ask regarding the adjusting float. Which wrench key are you using to turn the 2 adjusting screws on the side of the cleats?

Also is there any way to adjust the attached / reengage level of the pedal to the cleat or it is a fix things (i mean how easy or hard is to release or attaché the pedal to cleat)

Thanks for all comments.


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[SUCycling88]

You just use a phillips head screwdriver to adjust the float and there is no way to adjust the tension unless you get the "track" versions of the speedplay zero's which have a super stiff release

[WasFab]

It stuck I put WD40 but not seems to move. It seems like the shape of the screw is worn so no Phillips can turn it I tried almost all sizes of Phillips. Any suggestions?


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[Gregorio]

It's a very small Phillips screw driver. If it won't tighten try backing it out a bit and then tighten.
Best advice though...go with different pedal system. I used them for years and when I switched it was like a night and day difference.

[WasFab]

It's a very small Phillips screw driver. If it won't tighten try backing it out a bit and then tighten.
Best advice though...go with different pedal system. I used them for years and when I switched it was like a night and day difference.

to which one u have switched?


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[Gregorio]

I switched to time iclic. Mostly because I ride a time rxr and thought you shan't put look pedals on a time bike.
I like the iClics, the small part on pedal that engages the rear part of cleat does wear after ~ 8-10k miles but Time USA has replaced them for free for me and I do appreciate the great customer service.

I did not realize how bad the speedplay zeros where until I switched.
But I do know people who love speedplays.

[krusty]

I did not realize how bad the speedplay zeros where until I switched.

+1
What always amazes me is the fanaticism of the Speedplay adherents. I suffered with those things for 2 seasons. Horrible, horrible design.

[Rick]

Its a #1 Phillips.

There is no way to adjust the actual release tension.

What amazes me is the vehemence of the speedplay haters.

One online vendor says that speedplay outsells all other pedals combined by 3:1 ratio. So somebody thinks they work OK.

[krusty]

What amazes me is the vehemence of the speedplay haters.

One online vendor says that speedplay outsells all other pedals combined by 3:1 ratio. So somebody thinks they work OK.

The thing about Speedplay is the entry motion. The straight down stomp, with nothing to align and guide your shoe is not a motion I found I could get along with, despite giving it amply opportunity. My first clipless were Time Criterium from the late 80s. I got very used to the forward kick that captured the front of the cleat and allowed the rear to just 'fall' into place as the pedal started its downward motion. My current Look Keos are the same. The catching of the front part of the cleat allows me to drive the pedal across the top of the rotation with control. The Speedplays don't. If you start using clipless with a set, I imagine you get used to them, but after years of using Time and Look, the Speedplays just feel really, really awkward. Once clipped, they're fine, although the cleats pack up with dirt too easily, seriously inhibiting their function. Try fumbling to get a set clipped while moving on a fixed gear bike - not fun.

[cookiemonster]

Try fumbling to get a set clipped while moving on a fixed gear bike - not fun.

Funny! I went to speedplay after years and years on spd-sl's. I'm happy I made the move for a variety of reasons, one of them being that I find it far easier to clip in when on the fixie. On a bumpy road spd-sl's had a habit of spinning round - so I'd be trying to follow the pedal or stop it spinning to get my foot in. With the speedplays you just step in and you're done.

Takes all sort I guess!

jon

[Ozrider]

Float I'd easy to adjust, but spring tension isn't adjustable, or I haven't discovered how to yet.
I swapped to Speedplay from Shimano Dura Ace pedals.
I find the double sided entry far better on group rides and riding in traffic as you can get clipped in and pedaling much quicker.
I often found the Shimano and previous Look pedals would sometimes rotate, leaving you fumbling to clip in.
Speedplay require a little more care and greasing, but they suit my needs.
The Shimano and Look pedals were fit and forget, and cleats were slightly cheaper.

Wearing size 48 shoes I find I can adjust the float limit stops to prevent the heel of my shoes rubbing the chain stay, and I like the float.
I have had no hot spots or knee issues, even with multi day endurance events or long 200 - 250km single day events.

Cheers
Oz

[WasFab]

Float I'd easy to adjust, but spring tension isn't adjustable, or I haven't discovered how to yet.
I swapped to Speedplay from Shimano Dura Ace pedals.
I find the double sided entry far better on group rides and riding in traffic as you can get clipped in and pedaling much quicker.
I often found the Shimano and previous Look pedals would sometimes rotate, leaving you fumbling to clip in.
Speedplay require a little more care and greasing, but they suit my needs.
The Shimano and Look pedals were fit and forget, and cleats were slightly cheaper.

Wearing size 48 shoes I find I can adjust the float limit stops to prevent the heel of my shoes rubbing the chain stay, and I like the float.
I have had no hot spots or knee issues, even with multi day endurance events or long 200 - 250km single day events.

Cheers
Oz

I'm new to Speedplay so can you advice where do I grease it, what type of grease or lube I should use?
Thanks


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[Rick]

I'm new to Speedplay so can you advice where do I grease it, what type of grease or lube I should use?
Thanks

You remove the screw on the outer end of the pedal; then hold a grease injector nozzle with a small tip against the hole, and squirt it in until the old grease pushes out past the o-ring on the inboard side. As you inject, pressure is building that will push the cap out and off unless you keep the nozzle pressed firmly against the cap. If it pushes out, no big deal; just push it back in and wipe off the excess.
After injecting grease, it is under some pressure inside the pedal, so it will weep out of the O-ring for a coupe rides afterwards.

I don't really think that speedplays need to be greased any more often than other pedals, but it is so easy that people often do.

For grease, I recommend Phil Wood grease, but others work acceptably.
Speedplay sells a grease injector gun, but I like this one:

http://www.aspirevelotech.com/Merchant2 ... WLUBETOOLS

One of the features I like most about speedplay is ease of entry. Just step down,,,,it couldn't possibly be any simpler (I've used all the others too.) If your speedplays are hard to get in to, then there must be something wrong with the cleat installation. Be very careful to get them installed FLAT, per the instruction sheet.

You do not want to walk around in dirt with speedplays. They are strictly for riding. I cary the "cafe covers" in a jersey pocket and slip them on if I have to walk at all. But speedplays are not really all that supersensitive to dirt. I have accidentally stepped in mud a few times, just wipe it out with your glove or something before riding and clean them when you get home.

[WasFab]

Thanks Rick

[krusty]

One of the features I like most about speedplay is ease of entry. Just step down,,,,it couldn't possibly be any simpler (I've used all the others too.) If your speedplays are hard to get in to, then there must be something wrong with the cleat installation.

Well, no, and this is the point I've tried to make. Someone above mentioned that they wanted double-sided entry and had gone to the Speedplays from SPDs. The entry motion for both is the same. If that's what you use as your first clipless, that's what you get used to. There is, however, no indication by feel that you are centered on the pedal, and that's to me what makes the design awkward. It's not that they are hard to clip, it's that they are hard to get into a position where you know that added pressure will clip them. The feedback you get from the catching of the front of a Look cleat (and the self-aligning it then does) is not there. Too often I crept across an intersection trying desperately to align so I could engage, and finally had to look down. I gave them ample opportunity, but didn't like them. Their initial popularity had to do with their appeal to the people who had used SPDs all their adolescent lives and were adding a road bike to their stable as well as apparent weight savings when added to the weight of a bike, but that was when other pedals were considerably heavier.

Other pedals are tail-heavy and respond instantly to a forward kick on the upstroke to capture the front of the cleat. People who have problems with that are those who have come from an SPD background, and step on the pedal late (at the top of the stroke or later), or even while the pedal is stationary, causing it to occasionally render itself upside down. That is the basic difference in use between the 2 designs; where in the pedal stroke engagement is attempted (SPD late, Look earlier) You get used to what you start with, and if that is SPD, Speedplay will work for you. If you do not come from an SPD background, they won't, and that was my experience. I am not saying Speedplay is a bad design at all (although I did use the word 'horrible'). The Look design (for me) can be clipped easily while pedaling, but I found the SPD/Speedplay design was best aligned and clipped while the pedals were not rotating. That's why (again for me) I use and prefer the Look design on the track.

BTW, I used Frogs for several years, and once I got used to the float, I loved them, but their entry is remarkably close to what I was used to already, as the cleat guides itself forward to engage.

Speedplay road pedals can be made to feel more secure in a sprinting situation for someone who moves their heels a lot. For those with a smoother technique, this is a non-issue. With properly maintained pedals and cleats, pre-release on either design is usually rider-related. Enjoy your Speedplays, and maintain them as recommended. They will last a long time if you do.