Kinlin XR 300 or 380 (Is there a big difference in terms of aerodynamic?)
You won't feel a great deal of aero benefit from a shallow rim depth at > 40mm. Granted there is something there but it won't be huge & you won't see massive minutes cut away from your regular 70km training runs. You might perceive something on the 40mm but you'd probably feel more by alternating to latex tubes vs. butyl & running a fresh set of nice tires at correct psi.
The number of spokes will play a greater affect on how the wheel grabs the wind & thus how effectively your cutting through the wind rather than wasting energy overcoming it.
One of the down sides to kinlin rims is the narrow width of the rim bed (the inside width that is where the tire will be retained) - you will end up with a rather bulbous shaped tire when using 23mm or wider tire widths. Personally I always found these narrower rims rather twitchy when cornering & I am a close weight to you @ >75kg.
You said in later posts that you don't ride in the hills too much so weight should be less of an issue vs. better aero.
Given the current offerings of rims I would be considering alpha340s, velocity a23 or hplusson archetype if your intention is to go with alu clincher. Or spend more & looking at carbon rims / tubulars. You can mix up the spoke counts on any of those alu clincher rims and get a surprisingly nice ride out of them (the lighter alpha rim will need more spokes comparatively to the higher weight ones given your weight).
Spokes - Sapim CX-Ray Spoke and Alloy nipples
Consider brass nips for drive side rear. They hold higher tension better & are more reliable to work with over time.
Depending on rim depth, the benefits of cx-ray spokes might not be too prevalent. You could get to a good weight by mixing dt revs for the front & non-drive side & then using a standard double butted spoke (dt comps) on the rear drive side. The big weight reduction will be made by selecting a blend of spokes at the right number. Say 20h front & 24h or 28h rear - which is trading off something like 150g against a traditional 32h/32h wheel build.
All these issues are discussed at length & with a full explanation within the wheelbuilding thread (viewtopic.php?f=3&t=74564
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Entirely up to you really on how much you want to spend & what target weight you're aiming for. The mix of hubs you've listed out suggests you haven't really decided one way or another if you want an out & out low weight hub, something spendy & high end or something low maintenance & durable. Generally the lower weight the hub, the more you trade off on reliability.
Tune hubs have had bad press back about 4yrs ago now. The more recent iterations of their hubs have seen good developments & excellent (imo) sizing of flanges & widths of shell which make them an interesting hub to consider. Certainly at your weight & if you have a punch style of riding you may benefit from a rear wheel build that benefits from good flange sizing & placement. The key thing for tune hubs atm is to buy them from somewhere that will stand by the warranty as it was the aftersales service that made the problems quite notorious at the time.
A big spend on hubs really isn't necessary though - stuff like circus monkey hubs (or one of the many other offerings out there) are relatively low weight & can be had for a bargain price. When you factor in hubs at > $100 price tags you suddenly switch from spending serious money to buying a wheelset that is balancing price, weight & ride characteristics far more evenly vs. high end wheelsets from a few years ago.
Ideally you should talk to a local builder that is known to be experienced & open to options being brought to the table - that way you can talk through the pros & cons of the options & also let your key requirements be worked through so a balanced decision is arrived at.