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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:40 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:36 pm
Posts: 199
Hi

I have the opportunity to buy a brand new FSA SL-K Light BB30 compact crankset for less than 1/4 of the retail price. It sounds too good to be true but I will pick it up personally so I can check it out before paying.

Anyway, the combination is 46/36 and it's 175mm. I'm currently using a 50/34 combination and 172.5mm. Would the extra crank arm length give me any problems?

Also, if I chose to use the 46%36 combination what would I have to do? I guess move down the front derailleur and shorten the chain? And how would a 46/36 combination impact my riding and pedaling? I have a tendency to ride with a lower cadence than I should...

Or maybe it would be better to swap out the chain rings for some 50/34 Stronglight chain rings or similar?

What's your take on it? The price is great for that crankset but I'm pretty happy with what I have now so I don't want to use to much money on 3. party components...

Cheers,
Greenduck :)

P.S: One last question... The FSA SL-K Light crankset is BB30 and I have a SuperSix using BB30. Is it as "simple" as remove the old crankset and install the new or are there any other things that should be replaced? Bearings or something like that? I don't think there are any other things included with crankset.

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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:40 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:25 pm
Posts: 476
Is it a mountain bike or road crank? If mountain I would leave it as you might want to change to a compact or double afterwards.

I have a somewhat similar gearing on a hybrid, but it uses a 32/42. It also has fat slick tires which add a lot of rolling resistance. With a 11-25 it's a perfect all around gear. You lose some top end gears but that hasn't been an obstacle for me (also a slow cranker btw)

Hope this was somewhat helpfull. Just remember when things are too good to be true, they usually are.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:23 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:00 am
Posts: 46
Location: Gold Coast, AUS
46/36 is CX gearing. On a roadbike you will likely run out of gears on any kind of fast downhill or even a fast flat sprint, ESPECIALLY if you are more a 'grinder' than a spinner (who may be able to get away with this gearing).
(46-11 is very similiar to your current 50-12, so you will be loosing your largest current gear - assuming you have an 11)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:57 am 
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 8:14 pm
Posts: 304
What is the make/model of your current crank? Is the K-force new or used? Honestly, for a 46/36t K-Force light - I don't think 1/4 retail price is somehow astonishing.. Good deal sure, but unbelievable no. You can buy Sram RED Bb30 crank at 1/2 retail if you play your cards right.

Anyway, it would be good to get the information above, but I wouldn't want a 46t.. Mind you that I run 53t; so its a bit different, but I just can't imagine it being an "effective" gear unless you are typically just cruising around. Given that you have a Supersix (my bike too!) I have to think you also enjoy pushing yourself and getting some speed. If your current cranks are really that bad - I would get the new cranks and swap chainrings.

Just so we have an idea, what is the actual price of the cranks? It would help us make an informed decision based on what other deals are going for.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:36 pm
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Just so there's no doubt, this is the crankset I'm thinking of buying: http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/ ... 0-Crankset

The crankset is brand new, newer been mounted or used. He is selling it for about 130 USD.

I use an 11-25 cassette. I would probably swap the 46/36 rings out with 50/34, maybe from Stronglight.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:00 am
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Location: Gold Coast, AUS
If your spending another $100+ on rings, is it still a bargain?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 2:02 pm 
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ozdavo wrote:
If your spending another $100+ on rings, is it still a bargain?

Where I live the crankset retails for around 706 USD, so I even if I had to use 100-150 USD on chain rings I would still see it as a bargain...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 2:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:04 pm
Posts: 143
Or you could live with the 36T and get a 52T or somethere around there to replace the 46T and have a slick crank for a deal. Look for FSA rings or other around with that BCD I think you'll find them for $50 or much less. THink I got a CT2 for about that price, and you should find rings for much less than that.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:31 am
Posts: 322
The different crank length, 175 instead of the 172.5 you have now, may cause a concern. Or not. I have 175 on all geared bikes but 172.5 and 170 on the two single speeds. Can't tell any difference. The 46-36 chainrings are not a concern. How often if ever do you use more than a 4:1 gear? You will have a high gear of 46x11. That is 30mph at 90 rpm. The 46x11 through 46x23 will get you 14mph to 30mph. Pretty good range for 9 cogs.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 8:14 pm
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Honestly - sounds like a good deal. Just buy it, see how the chainrings work, and then upgrade if you need to. You can pikckup SRAM Red rings for like $50. Jump on it!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:26 am
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Location: California's country side
it's a great commute and hauling combo.. but gotta tell you in a tail wind chase kinda hard to go faster than 32mph and then get dropped..
Also on my braze on tab I already slam the FD lowest for 50T chainring, so I wonder what would it be like for a 46T, not that I am going to.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:36 pm
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Thanks for the replies - My front derailleur is clamp-on, so I have no issues with moving the FD down the seat tube to fit to the 46T chain ring. I can always use my current chain rings until I get a chance to buy some better for the FSA-SL-K Light crankset. My current crankset is a FSA Gossamer Pro Compact BB30.

Basically the only concern I have now is the extra length, 172.5mm vs 175mm. It may not be a concern but I guess only time will tell. I think I will go ahead and buy it.

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:36 pm
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Just a little update about the crankset.

I met with the guy who sold the crankset and could see that the crankset had been mounted and used but was in very good condition, at least that's what I thought. I noticed a little play in the non-drive pedal arm but figured it was because the tightening bolt was tightened properly. So I bought it and payed 120 USD for it.

When I got home I discovered, to my dissapointment, that the play was due to a faulty pedal arm. At least I had only payed 120 USD for it so I wasn't too dissapointed and thought 'what the heck'.

Anyway, I took it to my LBS and one of the guys sent the crankset to a FSA rep. and 2 weeks later a new pedal arm showed up free of charge, although I didn't had any receipt on the crankset. So I used my 50/34 chainrings from my FSA Gossamer Pro BB30 crankset and now I have a fully functional SL-K Light BB30 crankset in great condition and only payed 120 USD :)

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:04 am
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Location: Mississippi
Nice work!

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 10:38 am
Posts: 414
46/36? That is CX gearing, or possibly touring. The issue is that you aren't going to be going fast.

Why not just get a 50/34?


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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:56 pm 


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