I'll be using with FORCE shifter and crankset. Replacing my DA7800 FD and K-edge chain catcher
Hope it works great.

The only small issue with the 7800 is the cage get some rubbing starting just a tiny bit in the 4th smallest ring in the smaller cogs, and the shifter doesn't have trim in the small ring for this.

I'm using the old shifter too - works like a dream. No idea what that guy above is talking about. Even Velonews said there is no difference between the 2012 and 2011 shifter except ergonomics.

Went out for another 30 mile ride today, lots and lots of hills. The Yaw FD is seriously one of the best upgrades I've ever made. The thing just works amazingly well. So smooth shifting up to the big ring, I don't even have to think about it. Shifting down is also spot on, every time.

The rear cassette (new Red 2012) is a little bit of a different story.. I did get one of the few 11-28s out there (from Speedgoat as well, but they just had one). It is noisy - more so than D/A. I can't say if its quieter than 2011 Red, as I've never tried it. I imagine it has to be with all those elastomers. BUT... shifting is also spot on; so I don't have much to complain about. My old D/A was a 12-27; and frankly I'm loving the 11t gear. I hit 48mph on a downhill today that I was only able to hit 42 on in the past. Yeah, the 3t jumps kinda suck, but when it comes down to it - having that range (11-28) is well worth it to me on these very hilly rides. On the way home, I was definitely happy I had that 28t on the largest hill... I was beat. Itt will probably be a different story near the end of the season, and I might invest in a 11-25 or 11-26 depending on my fitness level.

All i can say is that if you want better FD shifting, you NEED this derailleur...!

Presuming the number of big chainring teeth stayed the same and you pedaled up to speed, then you must have been going at a higher cadence with the 11 than you were with the 12, as 42 mph on a 12 would translate to 45.8 mph on an 11 at the same cadence. If anything, you'd expect that even if you went faster with the 11, you would be pedaling at the same or lower cadence in an 11, not a higher cadence. Of course, wind conditions could have been more favorable, you felt stoked about having the 11 and gave it more gas, or whatever.

Well aren't you scientific! You remind me of the engineers I work with. Sure, all of the above; I have no idea what my cadence was, as after i start going over 40mph, I tend to not want to look down at my computer. I was shocked to see that my max speed was 48 afterwards. Regardless, it felt good - and I was super happy to have the 11t - not just on that decent, though that was the fastest one on this particular ride. In my training over the winter, I did do quite a bit of practice keeping my cadence around 95 - so that may already be paying off with the ability to spin faster more comfortably. In the past, when my cadence gets to around 105-108 at any high speed, I start getting jerky rhythm, which usually prevents me from wanting to pedal faster. I will pay closer attention to this on my next ride to see if that level has changed significantly. Assuming you know that I was in 53x11; and going 48mph - YOU can tell me what my cadence was. That would actually be helpful!

Assuming a rollout of 2100 mm, which is probably in a ballpark of what you had, then 48.0 mph would correspond to 127.2 rpm, but this would only be if your pedaling was driving the bike at the speed, as opposed to coasting or "soft-pedaling" in which the bike is going faster than your "pedaling". Your actual rollout depends on the tire, inflation pressure, and weight on the bike as ridden, but is probably close enough that you'd be within a couple of rpm of 127.

42.0 mph in 53/12 would correspond to 121.5 rpm under the same assumptions.

Hmmm.. no way in hell I can do that rpm. This leads me to believe that I clearly get "going" at a certain speed, and let gravity take me to the final top speed. My guess here, of course, is that I was able to get to a higher speed before coasting at my comfort zone RPM than with the 12t.. There of course could be all sorts of subjectivity here too; like wind etc. Everything else bike wise is the same (except for the new Red 2011 shifters - but perhaps the internal cable routing seriously cut my drag!).

Thanks for the calculations though - I had a feeling I could count on you to provide them!!

Just replaced my old Red FD with the new one. . .I have Zipp VumaQuad cranks with Rotor Q-Rings on there. Those Rotor rings aren't great for shifting, but love them enough to sacrifice some shifting quality.

BUT, must say, the new FD works GREAT (even with the old shifters). So much better and faster shifting than with the old FD. Great upgrade.

I got the FD's at cambria as well for $99. . .for some reason they were marked down until a couple of days ago when they went back to full price.

First ride with 2012 Yaw derailleur, 2011 shifters and Rotor 3D+/Q-rings.
Shifts nicely, even though Q-rings aren't best shifting rings, I think shifting down from big ring is even better than up shifting. Definitely great upgrade from Force front derailleur.
No chain rub anymore, not even on 50-23 or 38-12.

I'm currently running a Sram Rival FD on my Cervelo RS and will be upgrading to the new RED soon as well. I'm also running Rotor Q Rings and have no trouble at all shifting, even with the Rival FD. I do get some rubbing but shifting is great. Sometimes so smooth I don't even notice. I think it just requires some minor adjustments and it can be made to shift flawlessly. I do have my FD angled a tiny bit inwards.

I am currently running a complete Sram Force setup. I inquired at a couple LBS's and they said the spacing on Crank Set Chain Rings is a little wider than their other Sram Crank Sets. They said it will work but not perfectly, that's why Sram recommends using the new Crank Sets.

Has any one else heard this?

First ride today with 2012 Red levers and derailleurs. Quark Sram 975 crank with 2011 Red rings.

The front shifts pretty well. Better than the old 7800 derailleur (and shifters) I had.

The rear takes a lot of effort. I damaged the stock rear inner wire during the install and replaced it with an Sram cable that isn't PTFE coated. Does that make a difference?

The 2012 Red cassette shifts well and is only slightly noisier than the 7800 and Sram 1070 cassettes I've been using.

Could make a little difference, you can get the PTFE from REI for $6... they work as good as the $13 SRAM black cable

Now about 750km later with Q-rings, old Red shifters and Yaw FD I'm really impressed of performance of the setup.
Even though Q-rings are poor shifting rings, Yaw FD makes them to work
My only gripe is the weight of the FD with chain spotter, 83grams is not weight weenie part, but I like how it works so I'm happy with it.
Now I want to try new cassette, but too bad there's no cassette with 18-tooth sprocket.

I took my first ride with the new FD I did about 30 miles with various climbs/descents/flats, I have the old shifters an old crank, I'm pretty happy with the way it shifts, definitely Alot smoother when shifting feels, much Better than the previous version SRAM FD