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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:35 pm 
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With the lightning it's possible to use the THM bb30 bottom bracket. We have yet to see a case of creaking with a threaded bb30 adapter such as that.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:23 pm 
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A ran my Lightening in a BSA BB frame before installing it in a BB30 one. It was a steel frame and I had to face it twice, clean the threads twice as well to achieve perfectly smooth rotation. You need a perfect BB shell, otherwise it will grind and probably kill the bearings prematurely. I only had creak from the loosened spider.


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Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:23 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:52 pm 
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Location: California's country side
buikpijn wrote:
Well, the bearings itself isn't a weak spot, they are using fairly large balls, and wide races. Since the bearing has a large diameter the load is better divided across the races in relation to smaller diameter bearings.

The issues with mine happened after a 'wet' ride. the bearings developed some oxidation (sounds better than rust) on the outer and inner race.

I hated the way the bearings where pushed out with the park tool (hammer on the inner race, especially when sealed with loctite 609) so i made my own tool for pressing these bearings in and out. Now servicing the bearings is pretty straight forward. (it automatically centers the bearing perfectly) I'm not aware of any BB system that stays noise-free after 6000km of riding. For me, the BB30 is the best option out there. It's the most silent, so far... :)

you don't want to stress the bearings when installing the crank either. Heat up the bearings with a hair-dryer (not too hot, just to create a temperature difference) and use a can of compressed air upside down to cool down the spindle of the crank. This way the parts literally fall together.

Image

Image


Quite impressive. Perhaps even better than the enduro BB30 I use which uses a collet when removing bearings.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 10:30 pm 
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rbrtwyn wrote:
Has the frame ever been faced? The alignment could be off based on the facing and therefore the cups don't align properly.


I had this problem on my old frame, 08 Cervelo SLC, and it continues with my brand new of last year 2011 Cervelo S2. None of which had been faced.

Rick wrote:
When you press the bearings in, you make sure the press contacts only the OUTER race, right ?

Are there external dust caps, and do you put a layer of grease on the exterior surface, between the bearings' dust cap and the exterior dust cap ?


Yes, yes, and yes.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:16 pm 
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The bearings should last a long time.

Be sure not to over-torquing the crank assembly. Post a video of your cranks spinning freely if you can.

Also, dust particle migrating into the assembly will result in creaks and noises. But this has nothing to do with excessive bearing wear. A thin layer of grease to finish exposed contacts helps mitigate the migration of debris inwards.

As you have "torn down" the seals on the BB make sure they are installed correctly and adequately finished off. There are further full installation instructions on the Lightning website which I suggest following to the letter. Paying particular attention to the MTB application.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:36 pm 
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ProfessorChaos wrote:
rbrtwyn wrote:
Has the frame ever been faced? The alignment could be off based on the facing and therefore the cups don't align properly.


I had this problem on my old frame, 08 Cervelo SLC, and it continues with my brand new of last year 2011 Cervelo S2. None of which had been faced.


Then you should have your frame faced.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 5:08 am 
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the two sides of a bottom bracket can be out of alignment. the parts are usually two separate pieces that are bonded in the middle. the cervelos that ive faced had been a little out of alignment, and with a large, stiff spindle, alignment is much more important.
even after being faced, it's possible the cups wont line up, depending on how much extra space there is from the threads of the cup to the threads of the frame.
im in favor of a loctite-plus-handtighten method, just to be sure. this will allow the cups to align themselves, using the spindle as the guide.
fsa also makes a bb30 alignment gauge, but so far they havent had it in stock and it may not be long enough for your wide bearing setup.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:08 pm 
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If I remember correctly the Cervelo insert is one piece, but I will be take the bike to the LBS this week, and face the bottom bracket. Now when you say hand tighten, and loctite, are you saying don't torque the BB cups, just loctite, and hand tighten them? That seems like that might cause more creaks than anything. This is purely speculation so correct me if I am wrong, but that just doesn't seem right.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:40 pm 
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My LBS let me borrow their facing tool. Just got done facing it. I'm about to reinstall my current cups, and see how it performs. The bearings feel nice and smooth since I relubed them. Hopefully the creak will be gone.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:52 pm 
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Here is a spin test video. It spun 3.5 times with a little push. Could be better, but it feels pretty smooth.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD9AGgtx ... eTboLm8%3D

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:01 pm 
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looks good, now go ride the bike hopefully the new bearings will last longer for you.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:07 pm 
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Even the most worn out of BB's will still feel smooth if you're trying to get a sense at the cranks. The roughness feel dissipates by the time the vibrations travel from the BB to the crank arms.
Remove the cranks, insert the spindle through the bearings and judge the bearings that way. Or simply with your finger at the BB itself. But if you've replaced the BB what have you done now? Faced the shell? Repacked the BB bearings?

Anyway, seeing that video, the cranks should still be spinning rather than coming to an abrupt halt like that.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:12 pm 
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PoorCyclist wrote:
looks good, now go ride the bike hopefully the new bearings will last longer for you.


It's still the old ones with the Rock N Roll Lube. The new Vuma Quad bearings have not made it here yet. Some day this week hopefully.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:53 pm 
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horse wrote:
Even the most worn out of BB's will still feel smooth if you're trying to get a sense at the cranks. The roughness feel dissipates by the time the vibrations travel from the BB to the crank arms.
Remove the cranks, insert the spindle through the bearings and judge the bearings that way. Or simply with your finger at the BB itself. But if you've replaced the BB what have you done now? Faced the shell? Repacked the BB bearings?

Anyway, seeing that video, the cranks should still be spinning rather than coming to an abrupt halt like that.



Yeah the bearings felt gritty when you put your fingers inside, and turned the bearing. Then I repacked it until that went away. I still think these bearings have a bad spot. It always seems to stop in almost the same spot. I'm hoping the facing will help the new ones last. I had good luck with the old Vuma Quad bearings so hopefully these will be even better with the faced shell. I read Zipp uses ABEC-7 Ceramic bearings with Grade 2 balls. That seems pretty good. I am contemplating buying some Phil Wood, or Hawk-Racing to press into these cups to try later when the Zipp bearings eventually fail, which hopefully will be a long time from now.

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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:53 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:17 pm 
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Since you mention the spindle itself is quite loose; are there significant black spots on the spindle itself? this indicates the spindle itself is too loose. I had a sram red bb30 crank that was way too loose.

My hollowgram and a few FSA bb30 cranks i've came across have way tighter tolerances.

On my 29er i use a rotor 3d+ crank with the bsa30 cups. Perhaps you can use these as a test, they are fair priced and come with the wrench to install them.

One important thing on the spindle; do you feel the machine-path of the lathe on the spindle on the actual contact-area of the bearings? if this is the case; that might cause your torn bearings too; since the spindle is sloppy in the bearings, the grooves are followed by the bearings causing them to mis-align. Contact areas of bearings in relative high load/low rpm applications need to be polished or at such a tight tolerance the bearing is unable to 'walk'


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