Hello

Just purchased a set of 2011 404's, does anyone here know if they should have come with pads? Were pads included with the wheels in 2011 or just in 2012?

Thanks!

Clinchers come with pads, no pads for tubulars

I use normal pads on mine all the time, bumf says it is fine.

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Follow me on twitter:- MrAliBongo

got a set of tangente platinum pads with each of my 2012 303 fc clinchers

Mine did not, but I bought a 404 front and 808 rear, not a set so maybe that's why.

my wheels came in separate boxes, each with a plastic bag secured to each wheel, with rimstrip, valve extender, brake pads, and manual.

edit - but the front was missing stickers on one side, and i called zipp and they admitted it was a QC mistake, and are sending me some, so you should contact them first to see if they screwed the pooch on your pads too.

This is correct

X2

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@racecarbrian

Use only the recommended pads....dont use pads that you used for aluminum rims on your Zipp wheels. The regular pads are too strong for the carbon fiber wheels and will eat up the carbon fiber wheels. Also microscopic pieces of aluminum are left on the pads and this will definitely damage your zipp wheels.

ok Thanks everyone, I guess they left the pads out of my wheel accessories bag too, dealer said he'd give me some.

Also today (2 days of riding on them so far) I noticed the rear-wheel was shifting back-and-forth along the hub/axle between the cassette and the dropout on the opposite side. I can tighten up the hub-end I guess and screw it back close and then tighten a hex screw on it, but is this weird? Should I contact Zipp? QC issue or just bad mounting by mechanice at shop?

BTW fwiw, I love the wheels so far, really fast, stable and feel so nicely planted on the ground, very confidence-inspiring and fun to ride. Better performance than I'd expected, as good as I'd hoped. Hope the quality is there to match.

Let's all hope they stay that way

my hubs were a bit loose right out of the box too. they didn't need much tightening, but it made a definite difference in the sideplay. i expect them to need another small adjustment after the first few rides (like my last set of the old gen clinchers).

As a few others mentioned, definitely adjust/check the pre-load on the bearings. Zipp has a video on youtube of the process, very easy and you can tune it how you want.

My rear bearing adjustment was loose and the hex wasn't right at all. Wondered why my rear wheel was slopping around..haha.

Yeah thanks, saw that bit, a bit annoying to have to keep an eye on that tiny hex screw plus my hex seems to slip a bit so I'm worried about eventually stripping the head on that tiny bolt, Zipp toild me to tighten then back away a bit and lock it in by tightening the hex, but it seems they hub end is not in its "aero" position if I do this,seems minor but still sort of not into having to worry about this process repeating if it loosens up over time repatedly I guess time will tell. I'm used to Alchjemy which has been trouble free

When I bought mine, they came with a pair of cork pads...

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Pascal

My Colnago C59 MTBK Camapgnolo Hyperon Ultra 2 and Campi SR11
http://rodebaron51.imgur.com/all/

That seems bizarre. While I'm not doubting the accuracy of your statement, why would clinchers come with pads and tubulars without pads?