Did Stephen say which the "correct" rotation direction is?
If I had to guess I'd say they are supposed to have the teeth towards the big ring, and I'd also guess the shortish chain stays on the Storck aren't helping. I'm not blaming the frame, just showing that there are many combinations that are beyond the control of a single manufacturer.
There are two solutions I can think of:
1) is using very thin washers to get the desired spacing where you don't get chain skating but get to use more cogs in the rear. If your crank/bb setup allows for this, you could move the entire thing to the right to alter the chainline, too, but I'm not sure if you can do that with the Clavicula. Doing a bit of both would probably give you the best result with the least compromise. I'd definetly contact THM to check if those modifications are ok with their crank, they are great guys there and with the really light and expensive stuff you gotta be aware that you have to be extra careful before fooling around.
2) Flip the chainring around and try the following tip from the master:
[Chainskating] is really not an uncommon problem, we've seen it alot over the years. There are alot of fixes, the best one IMO is to reshape the outer cage on the front derailleur. The idea is to bend the front part of the outer cage in just a bit. Basically you just want to push the chain a touch further when you shift down. But you don't want to move the whole derailleur or you'll end up with the chain dropping off the inside. Just get a pair of pliers and bend the mech and you should be good.