OK, been on Speedplays for years and decided to switch to Time iClic2. Mounted them, went for a ride and while I like the new pedals, the cleat positioning needs a little fine tuning. Brought an Allen wrench on ride today and made some adjustments, but still doesn't feel quite there, close, but not perfect.

Anyone have a sure-fire relatively quick way to get those cleats positioned just right?

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It only hurts if you think.

Bump...

I just had the same issue... I most have stopped at least 7 to 8 times and reset the cleat position on a new pair of shoes...

C

With iClic double check that you chose the Q factor that is right for you. There are two settings. Otherwise, yeah, just fiddle with it till feels right.

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1993 Merckx MXL
2011 Cervelo R3
2012 Madone 6.9 SSL

Slightly related- apologies if this is seen as a hijack!

What is the best way of accounting for slight leg length differences- move the cleat fore/aft, or wedge the sole?

Unfortunately, there is no 'short-cut'. If you are using the same pedal and cleat system, you can use your old shoes as a 'guide', but it still comes down to translating that to your new shoes and cleats. That process is still down to the age-old technique of trial and error. Replacing cleats is obviously no problem.

Once you have done it over and over for decades, you get to be pretty good at starting-off close. As you do it, you will learn instinctively by feel what adjustments are required to make the necessary changes.

unfortunately this is going to be one of those things where you'll need to experiment to find what works best. Some factors to keep in mind would be:

Is the difference structural or functional? If it's functional you may have better long term success with physio and stretching.
If it's under 5mm, the body is usually capable of making do without shims.
What's your saddle height like? If the leg length difference is indeed slight, it is often exacerbated by a saddle that's too high, and lowering the saddle will eliminate the problem altogether.

Sorry, there are a million variables that come into play, but maybe that is at least food for thought.

How much... and is it the upper or lower leg?

I have a short right tibia and have had good luck using a shim under my right cleat. If I were to try and make it up by adjusting my cleats I end up not sitting squarely on the saddle. It might be different if my femurs were a different length.

My tip would be put the bike on a trainer at the house and make your adjustments there. It is just too much hassle to try make adjustments on the road.

I got new shoes this year and got cleats for them. Even using my old shoes as a guide it took me a few rides to get them just right, but makes it easier to do this on a trainer with tools sitting next to you.

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This is my no name bike
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=81279

-caseycycling

I know what you mean about the trainer. I use it every time I change shoes, pedals or cleats just to make sure that I have things dialed in well. But, the funny thing is that no matter how good they feel on the trainer, I always end up going through 5-10 micro adjustments on the road. I'd suggest starting on the trainer, but then dedicating a day or two of easy rolling around where you can fine tune anything you need to in order to make sure it's perfect. I use fixed cleats, so I have to be absolutely perfect, but having cleats with float you want to be as close to perfect as possible so that the float is maximized (or if it has re-centering float so that it doesn't strain your knees).

Good luck, it's like riding itself: there is no substitute for putting in the time...

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