I decided to replace my BB30 bearings. My bottom bracket has been creaking for 8 months and I tried everything to make it stop. It would always get better after greasing and cleaning but eventually the creaking would come back. After researching the BB30 issues I'm hoping the use of Loctite 609 with the new bearings will solve the creaking. When I replaced the bearings I did notice that all the tolerances seemed tight...definitely no issues like bearings spinning in the bottom bracket as other have posted.

I cheaped out big time and purchased the FSA BB30 Bearing Removal and the FSA BB30 Bearing Installation Tool. I really didn't know what I was doing but made up a simple press from a bolt, washers and a nut. The removal tool worked excellent to remove the bearings but the installation tool with the make shift press didn't go as well as I would have liked. I just couldn't get the bearings to go in perfectly straight. They always seemed to go in at a bit of an angle. I ended up having to use a wood block to tap on the press where the bearing was at an angle. The the press would come loose and I would snug up the bots again and give it a few more taps to keep things straight. Would definitely rather use a press that would keep the bearings perfectly straight as they went in.

My other concern was the amount of Loctite 609 that I used. I coated the shell and outer surface of the bearings but after they were pressed in and tight against the bearing-stop clip there was a small puddle of loctite sitting in the bearings-stop clip groove and on the stop clip. A small amount also got on the bearing seal where it was pressed against the stop clip. I cleaned it up as best as possible before greasing so hopefully it will not cause any problems and hope that the stop clip will be removable down the road.

Here are some pics.

make sure you press bearings in one at a time. that helps getting the bearings in straight.
when sliding the spindle through the bearings, if it goes mostly smoothly through the first bearing and then stiffens significantly when passing into the second bearing, the bearing may be slightly out of alignment. it may pay to gently remove one or both bearings and reinstall them.
a very cold spindle may be a better tool to gauge bearing alignment. fsa makes an alignment gauge, but it's never in stock and it's expensive. made for manufacturers, not shops, and definitely not for end users.

Looks like you put the loctite on nice and thin, so shouldn't be that much squeezed out. The only concern about loctite on the seal is the interface to the inner race as that is the sliding edge.
Putting a bit of loctite on the inner race so when you slide the axle through it gets some hold is a better idea than grease. Seems most the creaking noisies (my bike included) is caused by axle to bearing movement so this is the area you want have some binding.

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those that put the loctite on the spindle, how is it when it come to removal?


One time I got the crank spindle half way out but do not know what tool to finish driving it. It turns out a long handle screw driver is perfect to drive it out, and the hammer doesn't have to get as close to the frame.

I put loctite thinny on the bearing, using a piece of paper towel as a brush.
the shell is supposed to be 0.05mm smaller than the bearing and it should be tight enough, unless there are signs that the bearings are loose, I do not think you need alot.

Spindle tolerances varies a bit.

thisisatest wrote:

I did press the bearings in one at a time. By the time the bearings were about 1/4 exposed they definitely went straight in from that point on. At that point I could feel everything coming together smoothy when tightening the press and I'm sure the bearings were straight when bottomed out against the stop clip. I did have my spindle in the freezer and it felt like both bearings had the same resistance when pushing the spindle through.

Phil P wrote:

Are you serious??? I didn't know anyone was doing that and definitely didn't think that the creaking was coming from the axle to bearing movement...makes perfect sense though! Like I said before the tolerance between my bearing and shell is tight but the spindle to bearing is definitely greater. I only put my spindle in the freezer to make things easier but it was not necessary. I've taken my spindle out many times and never needed the use of a hammer. Maybe that is where my creaking issues have been coming from all along???

Would also like to hear from others how it was removing the spindle when using loctite?

Thanks for all the help!

I have removed BB30 bearing that were loctited.
They came out pretty easily, but I used an FSA removal mandrel, metal punch, and steel hammer.
Put in the removal mandrel; put the center punch into the divit in the center of the mandrel; and rap it sharply with a steel hammer. It popped right out.

I tried using a rubber mallet at first, and I couldn't get the bearings to budge at all ! So I thought I was in trouble. But when I switched to the steel hammer it was easy. I didn't really hit them any harder, but I think it is associated with the much sharper impact that the steel gives.

Loctite 609 solved my creaking problems. You can also search for my prior rantings on this subject. I have my wave washer crushed flat, but I am not using loctite on the spindle.

also.. recommend enduro tool (which is finally in stock..)

It is really easy to use.

I had a shop used a pipe and hammer to punch out the bearing. Lets just say there were complications.
But almost no shop use a press to remove the bearings, or know about retainer class loctite, the best is to do this yourself.