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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:35 pm 

Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:26 am
Posts: 414
Location: California's country side
http://www.lookcycle.com/fr/all/look-cy ... o-fit.html

Does anyone know what this is and how it works?


PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:46 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:28 pm
Posts: 1405
It explains what it is in the link you provided.

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:46 pm 

PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:58 am 

Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 653
Nice link PoorCyclist.. didn't know that this existed!!! thanks!!!


PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 5:14 pm 

Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 3:05 am
Posts: 219
Location: Georgia
I came across this a couple of weeks ago, did a search and didn't find a fit location, emailed Look and have yet to get a response. How's that for doing business..... :roll:

PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:09 pm
Posts: 255
Location: London
Ahhh, I wondered when the Look Keo Fit system would crop up, I was lab rat for my LBS a little while ago. First off from experience these are very hit and miss. The first set which Look sent only worked on the left pedal, the right pedal computer was toast and gave no readings so was useless. The second set worked better but not perfectly.

First you measure your foot to work out the fore/aft position to position the cleat so it is directly over the ball of you foot. This was the most successful part of the process.

Next you fit the pedals to your bike and you insert some magnets into a recess in the front of cleat. next step is to move your foot left/right until you reach max. float and start pushing against the spring. Then you zero the pedals and start pedalling for a few minutes until the pedals make a tone. The pedals read the motion of the magnet and on the screen give you 2 numbers telling you how your foot moves in and out during your pedal stroke. The first number tells you the +/- angle in degrees you should move the cleat using a jig to get the cleat in a neutral position so its always in the middle of the float range. The second angle recommends which type of cleat (grey, red, black). Once you have got one set of angles you do the process again to get an average. Then with the value for position angle (the first number on the screen) you use a jig to move the cleat to the correct angle.

Et volia, finit... or not.

When I did it at the shop one of the magnets didn't work with the pedal so there were no readings on the screen. Because we still had the first system which didn't function at all we took the magnets from there. Zeroing the pedals is a pain because if you move your foot a bit too much or too little it doesn't read right.

Once the cleats were supposedly in the right positions you do the whole thing again to check. When we did this the values were totally different than before, not within the tolerance.

So at the end of the whole saga my cleats were in almost exactly the same position as before and we weren't sure if it actually worked.


PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:31 am 

Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:04 pm
Posts: 202
Is it really a good approach to measure the maximum movement of your feet when you pedal and let them move that far by selecting the matching cleats?

When I went to a fitter to get the cleats on my Bonts in the right place (I never had that many problems mounting cleats on a bike shoe before -- mostly due to the extremely stiff shoe that doesn't allow you to "feel" with your fingers where the balls of your feet are inside the shoes) we settled on black cleats to prevent the knee from moving "sideways".

Originally I used "no float" cleats, but on my 2nd set of shoes I went with grey cleats as I wasn't able to dial in the position perfectly (it felt like the best position was dependent on the cadence). With the Bonts it required two fitting sessions (with different fitters) and then I finally drilled new holes in one shoe.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:31 am 

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