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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:23 am
Posts: 51
It's been a while since I've been cycling. I just picked up a 2012 SuperSix 4 and am looking to shed some weight just for fun. I enjoy research and tinkering.

What I've found for my bike that the best cost/weight savings ratio on this bike are:

1. Seatpost
2. Seatpost clamp
3. Pedal Spindles
4. Skewers
5. Wheels

I already bought some bike wheel warehouse BSR Blue wheels that should come in at around 1350 grams compared to the Mavic Aksiums (1750) but I've already heard from a few much more experienced cyclists that they would be hesitant about the quality of them. I have yet to receive them.

I've had enough hobbies to know that sometimes when you modify things you really end up with quite a bit of a headache and am looking to avoid that if at all possible.

I have been looking at KCNC products, J&L products and though weight-wise they seem great, are they really reliable?
I have also been told that titanium skewers squeak.
If I go down the WW path am I looking for headaches?

Where would you guys start?

I am thinking that titanium spindles for the pedals is a safe bet.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 59
I approached my build with things I needed to replace first.. this was seat, post, & stem. Then it was a calculation as to how much I wanted to spend.. I used a spreadsheet and calculated the Cost per Gram of savings over what I was replacing.

Next, I looked at where I could make the biggest improvement gains.. Rims and tires are normally looked at here...

Then plan for wear items, lighter chain, replacement wrap, groupset, cassette, lighter brake pads
etc...

While waiting for stuff to wear out, you can spend your time and money on Ti/Au/Nylon hardware, Light Skewers, carbon bottle cages and Au hardware, lighter cables, lighter brake sets, etc...

Then the sickness really hits and you will be drilling holes in perfectly good parts, stripping the HEAVY paint off all your parts, peeling the padding off your sadlle, and spending time daily wiping away all the road dirt and exccess grease and lube that is weighing you down...

Welcome to WW...

_________________
Thanks...

Rick
Somewhere south of Chicago IL, USA


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Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:59 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:12 pm 
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Posts: 51
63corvairsprint wrote:
I approached my build with things I needed to replace first.. this was seat, post, & stem. Then it was a calculation as to how much I wanted to spend.. I used a spreadsheet and calculated the Cost per Gram of savings over what I was replacing.

Next, I looked at where I could make the biggest improvement gains.. Rims and tires are normally looked at here...

Then plan for wear items, lighter chain, replacement wrap, groupset, cassette, lighter brake pads
etc...

While waiting for stuff to wear out, you can spend your time and money on Ti/Au/Nylon hardware, Light Skewers, carbon bottle cages and Au hardware, lighter cables, lighter brake sets, etc...

Then the sickness really hits and you will be drilling holes in perfectly good parts, stripping the HEAVY paint off all your parts, peeling the padding off your sadlle, and spending time daily wiping away all the road dirt and exccess grease and lube that is weighing you down...

Welcome to WW...

Thanks for the advice. I am somewhat of an Excel geek and have already started to do what you've mentioned.
What seatpost, saddle and clamp did you go with? Any issues?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 8:14 pm
Posts: 300
I would start with removing the reflectors :lol:

Then... you hit the wheels already, which is the first place to start. I can't imagine you'd save any real weight with the seatpost clamp.. maybe 20g? I have my eye on an MCFK carbon clamp. I'm going to pull the trigger this season on it - been holding back because its a $80 clamp.

What about your saddle, bar, and stem? I'm sure they are better bang for your buck than the other items. What type of pedals do you have that your going to replace the spindles on?

I would go with a carbon seatpost, better seat (better looking at least), and probably a new bar/stem combo. You can save a ton of weight on those. What are your brakes/groupset? Cranks?

Like the other guy said, get a spreadsheet together with all your parts listed and their weights. Then do some research, or ask here some good options for each part. Put in the new part, cost, and weight savings.. and there you go - you have a roadmap.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:36 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Boston MA USA
I followed 63corvairsprint's approach as well

I have a 2011 Supersix 4 - and immediately changed out the saddle, stem, and bars. I knew I wanted the same models as I have on my older bike, but opted for higher end models (WCS vs Pro for the Ritchey bits, Expert vs Comp for the Specialized Romin) for weight savings for minimum price premium. $30 for 40g on the saddle, ~$10 for 30g on the bars, and ~$10 for 10g on the Stem. I was buying them anyways, so I spent a bit more there.

Wheels are next up. As an intermediate step, before splurging on some custom wheels, I've tossed on some Ultegra wheels from a Cross bike that I've been cannibalizing. Saved 350g using stock skewers and GP4000s and 80g tubes.

It's still just north of 17 lbs (7740g) with everything included (bottle cages, 320g pedals, Garmin and sensor). The "advertising price", without the necessary bits like that is sub-16lbs.

To get it to sub-14, I'd probaably have to go with 2012 Red (oh, damn...) and a nice set of wheels. Got to start saving...


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:23 am
Posts: 51
Here is what I gathered on weights. Not sure everything is exactly right

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 8:14 pm
Posts: 300
Ok, easy...

You need to change:
COG - go Red/or dura ace.. huge savings
Skewers.. crap yours are heavy. Tune or similar will save you 100g.. even cheap ebay models will save 70g
Handlebar - you can save 100g going carbon
Tires: you need new ones.. won't be huge weight savings (20-30g each), but rotating weight makes big diff... besides, I wouldn't ride those.
Saddle: easy 60g, plus you can get one that looks way better (just my opinion, you may love it)

On another note - are those advertised weights or are you actually weighing them?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:11 pm 
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Posts: 51
VTBike wrote:
Ok, easy...

You need to change:
COG - go Red/or dura ace.. huge savings
Skewers.. crap yours are heavy. Tune or similar will save you 100g.. even cheap ebay models will save 70g
Handlebar - you can save 100g going carbon
Tires: you need new ones.. won't be huge weight savings (20-30g each), but rotating weight makes big diff... besides, I wouldn't ride those.
Saddle: easy 60g, plus you can get one that looks way better (just my opinion, you may love it)

On another note - are those advertised weights or are you actually weighing them?

The weights I have listed are advertised and may not be accurate. I found a site that said my rear cassette is only 229 grams...which is significantly different than what I have listed.

Why does everyone think my saddle is ugly? In a few years it'll be back in style. Just like Moon Boots.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:55 am 
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 8:14 pm
Posts: 300
Podunk wrote:
The weights I have listed are advertised and may not be accurate. I found a site that said my rear cassette is only 229 grams...which is significantly different than what I have listed.

Why does everyone think my saddle is ugly? In a few years it'll be back in style. Just like Moon Boots.


Well, its something about the shape - it also has too much padding, and just looks big.. especially since you have so little seatpost out of the bike. It just doesn't look sleek. Combined with your stem that has a relatively high rise, it makes the bike look less "racey"... That's about all I can say. That being said, there are things on my bike that other people hate too!

The weight listings on this site are great if you can find your components there.. i would definitely trust them.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:13 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:23 am
Posts: 51
VTBike wrote:
Podunk wrote:
The weights I have listed are advertised and may not be accurate. I found a site that said my rear cassette is only 229 grams...which is significantly different than what I have listed.

Why does everyone think my saddle is ugly? In a few years it'll be back in style. Just like Moon Boots.


Well, its something about the shape - it also has too much padding, and just looks big.. especially since you have so little seatpost out of the bike. It just doesn't look sleek. Combined with your stem that has a relatively high rise, it makes the bike look less "racey"... That's about all I can say. That being said, there are things on my bike that other people hate too!

The weight listings on this site are great if you can find your components there.. i would definitely trust them.


Do people still flip stems upside down? I used to do that years and years ago.
I need to pick up a new saddle.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:36 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Boston MA USA
Put the stem whatever way is comfortable. Mine is, and not just for aesthetic reasons (mind you, there are still 15-20mm worth of spacers above the top cone... working on making those disappear). I'm assuming by "upside down" you mean -6* (or -10, -17, what have you).


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:45 pm
Posts: 82
I think you might want to add something to that list: weight the fsa headset press thingy, it comes in slightly over 50g. Tune gumgum or extralite ultrastar with a light topcap/screw can save you 40g


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 8:14 pm
Posts: 300
seandonovan wrote:
Put the stem whatever way is comfortable. Mine is, and not just for aesthetic reasons (mind you, there are still 15-20mm worth of spacers above the top cone... working on making those disappear). I'm assuming by "upside down" you mean -6* (or -10, -17, what have you).



YES.. I forgot to just say the obvious. Screw looks - if that's what's comfortable, that's the saddle and stem you need to have. Bar none, of your bike isn't comfortable to ride - if it doesn't call out to you to just spend all the time you can on it, then it makes no difference how it looks!

And ditto on the gum gum/extrastar compression plug. Easy way to save 50g for $20ish.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:55 pm
Posts: 167
Location: New Jersey
Podunk wrote:

I have been looking at KCNC products, J&L products and though weight-wise they seem great, are they really reliable?
I have also been told that titanium skewers squeak.
If I go down the WW path am I looking for headaches?





I've used alot of KCNC products; brakes, derailleur tuning parts, skewers, seat posts, stems, headsets and spacers. Never had any issues with any and the skewers shouldn't squeak if tightened down properly. WW parts shouldn't give you headaches, at least not installing them, just take your time with everything.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:23 am
Posts: 51
I have Ti spindles on the way and Token Ti Skewers

Looking for a Specialized Toupe Pro or Romin Pro at the moment but they are hard to come by apparently.

Looking into the Tune gumgum or extralight


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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:31 pm 


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