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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 3:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:52 am
Posts: 505
Location: North Carolina
@cDaero How fast do you need it? I am having to back burner a few things while I prepare for surgery. It might be a couple of weeks before I can get to it, but if I can faster I will.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 9:39 pm
Posts: 1061
that makes a lot of sense. with round seat posts...there's no wiggle room to pass a wire down to the connection point.

the for the clarification.

CrankAddictsRich wrote:
kode54 wrote:
WheresWaldo wrote:
Image

Uses a couple of zip ties to hold it in place. When the fellow cyclist that asked for this sent me a picture of it installed, I was surprised to see it mounted in front of the saddle clamp instead of behind the saddle clamp.

Image


how does one use this mount, if you have a Di2 seat post battery in place? i'm looking to relocate my junction box elsewhere, and have an Enve bar, so no handlebar end mount for me.


I think you're asking how do I run the wires in the seat post, with the battery inside it, correct? The Shiv has an aero seat post, so the battery fits inside the widest area, but there's still channels of space in front and behind. I did have a drill a small hole in the top of the seat post to bring the wires through, as well.


WheresWaldo wrote:
Sorry for missing these posts, had to replace the motherboard in my PC then reinstall Win10 on top of that. Hopefully I will be 100% running after today, still a bunch of apps need reinstalling.

@kode54 The guy from Crank Addicts has it installed the way it should be installed. The little hooked ends have a slot next to it. You use a zip ties around the seat rail to secure each side of the Di2 mount. It was not designed with any particular orientation in mind. The original thought was that you would install this facing rearward (behind the saddle clamp and this the Junction A under (like the picture but behind the saddle not in front). You can, room permitting install it with the Di2 clip on the top also. It was designed so the cable connections point toward the seat post. I do not have the seat post Di2 Battery (still using Di2 Ultegra 10-speed) so I cannot say how the cables exit from that setup.

@dlcrep The nylon (Strong & Flexible) is cheaper because the cost of materials and manufacturing process is cheaper. It also is a bit more flexible in thinner thicknesses. The Acrylic is stiffer and much less flexible than nylon, it also has a smoother finish because it is made with Acrylic resin and not grains of nylon. The colors although very limited are clear through the print. White, Black and Translucent (milky) are all that is available in acrylic, but Acrylic can take paint with just priming and painting, the nylon requires sealing first. Here is how I choose, If I can't see it on the bike and it is attached to a light item, we are weightweenies after all, I almost always choose S&F nylon (never black since Shapeways claims they can't polish the surface before dyeing it in black). If it is a bigger piece and/or holding more weight or I can see it while riding I generally choose Acrylic in Black. If I were going to paint match the bike, I would choose Acrylic in white so as not to affect the final color.

I hope those answers help.


I mounted it forward for two reasons. 1. I have the saddle pushed forward, so there wasn't a lot of room behind it to mount it. 2. At most time trials, there's a holder that holds the back of the bike by grabbing the back of the saddle. I didn't want the junction box back there where the holder could inadvertently break it, knock out a wire or put it into adjustment mode, etc.

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- Parlee Altum + DA9150 + Enve SES 4.5 carbon hubs
- Parlee ESX + DA9070 + THM SRM PM + Enve SES 6.7 CK hubs
- Independent Fabrication Ti FLW + Campy SR11 + Enve 3.4 CK hubs


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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 6:38 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:45 pm 
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Waldo sorry I missed your reply. The sooner the better. Hopefully you're out of surgery now and feeling back at it!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Location: North Carolina
Surgery has been postponed to Dec 18th, In the mean time I am in a fair amount of pain. Insurance companies own our healthcare system and had to wait on pre-approvals.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 1:24 am 
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Posts: 16
Unfortunately I know all too well exactly what you're going through. Hope some things swing your way in the next few weeks


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:23 pm
Posts: 25
@WheresWaldo, do you have any out front Garmin mount to use on the Kalloy Uno stem bolts?

Thanks and looking forward your reply


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:23 pm
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@WheresWaldo, do you have any out front Garmin mount to use on the Kalloy Uno stem bolts?

Thanks and looking forward your reply


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:52 am
Posts: 505
Location: North Carolina
I don't do very many handlebar or stem mounts. Those are usually better if they are Aluminum and not 3D printed. The technology is still too fragile and too expensive for metal 3D printing as an end user product. There are a few people doing stem bolt mounts and there are even some Chinese clones of stem bolt mounts.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 4:29 pm 
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Hi Waldo,

Thanks for your reply and info.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 10:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:37 pm
Posts: 220
orange77 wrote:
@WheresWaldo, do you have any out front Garmin mount to use on the Kalloy Uno stem bolts?

Thanks and looking forward your reply


I have a Tilquist Alloy Garmin out front mount for Kalloy stems for sale..

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 Post subject: Out front mounts
PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:52 am
Posts: 505
Location: North Carolina
@orange77 I would jump on @stevec1975's offer if it will work for you.


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