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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:18 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 188
I am curious why the fascination with 2:1 lacing. Are people experiencing problems with properly-built, sufficiently-spoked wheels using traditional 1:1 lacing patterns? Or is it just for fun? -- not that there is anything wrong with that, of course.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 1022
It's pretty simple really... It can be a great way to deal with tension imbalance and the method has been used for donkeys years:
Image

It keeps being mentioned that it's not particularly useful unless the hub has such a wide NDS that it's pretty useless for 'regular' lacing patterns.

Without opening up another can of worms, this seemed to be a great option for some people during it's short lived production run:
Image

It seems like a bit of a shame that more manufacturers aren't interested in offering hubs/rims to suit when the concept has been proven to work so well.


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Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:51 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:27 am 
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Formerly known as wassertreter

Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 1944
Location: Pedal Square
Hey thanks everyone. 28h 2x on both sides it is then, want to match the Shimano front hub.

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 3:01 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 188
Ah, that makes sense about it being a good idea for very wide flanged hubs -- thanks. As effectively all my wheels now are disc brake, this is probably not in my near future. I guess I haven't had issues with wheel stiffness with "regular" (or disc) hub dimensions, but I also recognize that I may not know what I am missing.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am
Posts: 165
How do I tell if a rim has offset drilling or center drilling? If it's offset, how do I tell the directions of the hole?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 6:04 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2014 2:42 am
Posts: 32
Location: Arizona
Which rim is it? I've had rims that I didn't think were offset but Google said otherwise


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 188
I think we are just talking about the holes being offset alternating to match which side of hub those spokes would be laced -- not like a Velilocity OC rim. You can tell if the holes are alternating offset by just looking at the rim.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2014 2:42 am
Posts: 32
Location: Arizona
My fault, probably shouldn't get on here when I'm that tired. You're right though, you just look at the rim, usually the rim bed is a bit easier to see it.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 11:00 pm
Posts: 16
Probably discussed before, but i tried to find it searching the forum but couldn't

Different spokes drive/Non-drive side,
Using stronger spokes on the drive side to the non drive side, As strength is less needed at the non-drive side, you can make lighter wheels. Maybe in some way comparable to the 2:1 pattern wich uses twice as much spokes on the drive side.

Anyone has usefull input on this? Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:18 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1329
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I do sometimes use sapim race DS and sapim laser NDS. Some think it helps prevent spokes loosening off but I don't think so as lateral wheel stiffness is reduced and therefore it will flex more so even though the thinner spokes elongate more the lower wheel stiffness mean they still end up loosening tension by a similar amount if the same spokes where used both sides. I think the main thing it does is improve torsional stiffness for that reason I think it is worth it. It does not replicate a 2:1 lacing pattern not even close.

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 Post subject: Tune hub spoke tension
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:52 am
Posts: 244
I'm currently building up a set of wheels on Tune hubs. The mfg specs call for max tension at 100Kgf, which is a bit below my standard of 120 Kgf on the drive side. Are people adhering to Tune's recommendation, or are they sneaking it up a little knowing that tension will decrease when a tire is mounted and inflated?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:20 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
If you build a wheel with 1000N DS it will fall apart so up the tension to 1200N.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:22 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:43 pm
Posts: 6
getting ready to get a new set of wheels. thinking of something like a 90r and 50f clincher. where is there a good place to order. looking at lightbicycle and carbon cycle. should i be going with the u shape and a 27 wide. might go with a set of rims and build up a set that way. also i have seen alloy braking surface or go something else


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:27 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1329
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
tubular or clincher. I have a set of light bicycle MTB tubular rims and they built up very well 330g too for 27mm wide and 24mm deep. I am not sure about alloy brake track as even big name brands can have them delaminate not sure if the chinese ones are any better or worse or just the same in this regard. I have carbon track track on my carbon rims and with Campagnolo pads they stop well enough in the wet in fact I can't much difference from some alloy rims I have used in the wet.

Wide is fine for clinchers but with tubular rim it does restrict you to wide tubs.

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Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:27 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:43 pm
Posts: 6
these are the ones i'm looking at. what is your opinion
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TUBULAR-Wheels-CARBON-50mm-88mm-Front-Rear-3k-Matt-Road-bike-700C-Rim-Black-NEW-/171224588235?pt=US_Wheels_Wheelsets&var=&hash=item6d822c680f

was looking for ud instead of 3k but not that big of a deal i guess


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