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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:23 pm
Posts: 99
Thanks, Eric!

Remeasured today by going nipple-to-nipple, adding 2x12mm, and got 529 mm, so I'll use that. Plan on using 14mm brass nipples as the rim bed is deep and I'm still "younger" in my wheelbuilding career.


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Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:34 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:10 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 3318
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
If the spokes are the right length it does not matter what nipple material is used.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:23 pm
Posts: 99
From a strength perspective, I agree that a properly sized spoke will reinforce the nipple appropriately. I just find brass nipples easier to build up a wheel with at this point in my "career" than alloy ones. I make for a pretty terrible weight weenie. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2292
Location: Pedal Square
Do people think a 24h / 16:8 lacing on a BHS TB415w rim would be sufficient for a 74kg rider? Want to get a rear wheel to go with my DA-7801 alu tubular front.
The BHS rim seems to match best in terms of shape and depth, and the black colour can be removed (it is ~2mm wider though). Hubs will probably be Dura Ace as well. The front only has 16 spokes, so a low spoke rear would be a good match. Planning to put some 27mm tyres on them.

Or just go 28h 2x?

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
28h 2x would be safer. But it depends on how you ride. For example I'm 65kg but kill rear wheels due to doing a lot of climbing and standing on climbs often.

An alterative would be a stiffer rim, which would make a stiffer wheel. Or if you want to do 2:1 lacing, using a hub designed for that with a wider NDS flange spacing.

With a normal hub I'd lace 1:1.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2292
Location: Pedal Square
Thanks Eric. I seem to be very easy on gear, never breaking anything or causing premature wear. And that despite living in the mountains and having an affection for hill repeats. Probably I'm just not strong enough. (Also a bit of a Shimano boy, and not terribly into the uberflimsy gear, that might help also).

Thought the TB415w was considered sturdy? What else is there, other than the Major Tom, that's not shallow like the Nemesis? (The HED is a bit beyond what I had planned to spend.)

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 4:15 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 12:52 am
Posts: 349
eric wrote:
28h 2x would be safer. But it depends on how you ride. ...

I'm 105kg and ride a 24 hole rear and 16 hole front. Was riding a 20h on a 200kg tandem. I did break a spoke on the tandem front 20h. Other than that - I'm fine.
As posted - it depends on how you ride (and if the wheels are built correctly).


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 11:04 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Posts: 1150
Location: Reading, UK
I've ordered a pair of the Farsports 60mm carbon clincher rim FSL60-CM-23. Web page indicates an ERD of 525mm. Can anyone confirm whether that dimension is accurate? So I can organise spokes in advance.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 10:39 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2292
Location: Pedal Square
Does anyone know if the 24h TB415w is offset drilled (preventing 2:1 lacing)? Mailed BHS but to no avail. Thanks.

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2292
Location: Pedal Square
BHS/Branden finally got back to me, saying the TB415w was drilled with slight offsets, but he would think it'd be ok for 2:1 lacing.

With that, would you recommend using a BHS 2:1 drilled SL210 hub, or Ultegra/Dura Ace to match my front wheel?

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I recommend using a hub with an extra wide NDS flange if you're doing 2:1. Otherwise it's less laterally stiff than 1:1, not more.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:10 am 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 3318
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
As above 2:1 lacing works only on hubs specifically designed for it. Even the BHS/bitex 2:1 hub is a long way from optimal. Persoanlly unless you get Royce to custom make a hub for you like I did or ask Bitex to make 500 hubs with a 65mm flange separation maybe more then I would not bother with 2:1 lacing.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:18 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 412
I am curious why the fascination with 2:1 lacing. Are people experiencing problems with properly-built, sufficiently-spoked wheels using traditional 1:1 lacing patterns? Or is it just for fun? -- not that there is anything wrong with that, of course.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 1504
It's pretty simple really... It can be a great way to deal with tension imbalance and the method has been used for donkeys years:
Image

It keeps being mentioned that it's not particularly useful unless the hub has such a wide NDS that it's pretty useless for 'regular' lacing patterns.

Without opening up another can of worms, this seemed to be a great option for some people during it's short lived production run:
Image

It seems like a bit of a shame that more manufacturers aren't interested in offering hubs/rims to suit when the concept has been proven to work so well.


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Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:51 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2292
Location: Pedal Square
Hey thanks everyone. 28h 2x on both sides it is then, want to match the Shimano front hub.

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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