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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2291
Location: Pedal Square
They are older FiR rims, Kelme Team leftover. Not sure they were available, or what the model is. Should probably just go measure it, thanks.

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:23 pm
Posts: 99
So I'm building up a 24H Powertap G3 hub to this rim: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231032302671

Please be my sanity check. :)

Using 2 283mm spokes threaded onto 12mm Sapim nipples (flush to the bottom of the screwdriver flat), I measured the head-to-head (center-to-center) overlap at 40mm. Taking that, I get an ERD of 526 (283*2-40), but spokes are measured to the inside of the J hook, so that measurement should really be 528mm. I measured this in multiple spoke hole pairs around the rim, and it remained consistent (score!).

Plan is to build this up 2x/2x and use nipple washers on the DS as a safeguard. From spocalc, I get:
NDS = 252.5 mm -- Plan on using CX-Ray 252mm (Almost a "free" upgrade since it pushes me over to free shipping)
DS = 250.3 + 0.7 = 251 mm -- Plan on using Sapim Race 250mm--or go 252?

Aiming for 120kgf DS, which puts me around 55 NDS. Not the greatest NDS tension, but I'm also pretty kind to wheels.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I cut the j bends off two spokes (@ 250mm) so there is no ambiguity about where to measure.

If using alloy nipples I'd go with the longer spokes on the DS.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:23 pm
Posts: 99
Thanks, Eric!

Remeasured today by going nipple-to-nipple, adding 2x12mm, and got 529 mm, so I'll use that. Plan on using 14mm brass nipples as the rim bed is deep and I'm still "younger" in my wheelbuilding career.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:10 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 2633
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
If the spokes are the right length it does not matter what nipple material is used.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:50 pm 
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Posts: 99
From a strength perspective, I agree that a properly sized spoke will reinforce the nipple appropriately. I just find brass nipples easier to build up a wheel with at this point in my "career" than alloy ones. I make for a pretty terrible weight weenie. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2291
Location: Pedal Square
Do people think a 24h / 16:8 lacing on a BHS TB415w rim would be sufficient for a 74kg rider? Want to get a rear wheel to go with my DA-7801 alu tubular front.
The BHS rim seems to match best in terms of shape and depth, and the black colour can be removed (it is ~2mm wider though). Hubs will probably be Dura Ace as well. The front only has 16 spokes, so a low spoke rear would be a good match. Planning to put some 27mm tyres on them.

Or just go 28h 2x?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
28h 2x would be safer. But it depends on how you ride. For example I'm 65kg but kill rear wheels due to doing a lot of climbing and standing on climbs often.

An alterative would be a stiffer rim, which would make a stiffer wheel. Or if you want to do 2:1 lacing, using a hub designed for that with a wider NDS flange spacing.

With a normal hub I'd lace 1:1.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
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Location: Pedal Square
Thanks Eric. I seem to be very easy on gear, never breaking anything or causing premature wear. And that despite living in the mountains and having an affection for hill repeats. Probably I'm just not strong enough. (Also a bit of a Shimano boy, and not terribly into the uberflimsy gear, that might help also).

Thought the TB415w was considered sturdy? What else is there, other than the Major Tom, that's not shallow like the Nemesis? (The HED is a bit beyond what I had planned to spend.)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 4:15 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 12:52 am
Posts: 308
eric wrote:
28h 2x would be safer. But it depends on how you ride. ...

I'm 105kg and ride a 24 hole rear and 16 hole front. Was riding a 20h on a 200kg tandem. I did break a spoke on the tandem front 20h. Other than that - I'm fine.
As posted - it depends on how you ride (and if the wheels are built correctly).


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 11:04 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Posts: 838
Location: Reading, UK
I've ordered a pair of the Farsports 60mm carbon clincher rim FSL60-CM-23. Web page indicates an ERD of 525mm. Can anyone confirm whether that dimension is accurate? So I can organise spokes in advance.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 10:39 am 
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Location: Pedal Square
Does anyone know if the 24h TB415w is offset drilled (preventing 2:1 lacing)? Mailed BHS but to no avail. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2291
Location: Pedal Square
BHS/Branden finally got back to me, saying the TB415w was drilled with slight offsets, but he would think it'd be ok for 2:1 lacing.

With that, would you recommend using a BHS 2:1 drilled SL210 hub, or Ultegra/Dura Ace to match my front wheel?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I recommend using a hub with an extra wide NDS flange if you're doing 2:1. Otherwise it's less laterally stiff than 1:1, not more.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:10 am 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
As above 2:1 lacing works only on hubs specifically designed for it. Even the BHS/bitex 2:1 hub is a long way from optimal. Persoanlly unless you get Royce to custom make a hub for you like I did or ask Bitex to make 500 hubs with a 65mm flange separation maybe more then I would not bother with 2:1 lacing.

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