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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 9:02 pm 
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Formerly known as wassertreter

Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 1831
Location: Pedal Square
People might show me the door, but I really like the higher end Kenda tyres. Karma DTC, and now will try Turnbull Canyon and maybe Slant Six (all in 650b, 2.0 - 2.1" but good volume). Again I don't compare myself with others on the MTB and ride for diversion from the road only. The wheels will run on a 650b converted 90s Stumpjumper, if you must know.

But the question was really about Ti spokes.

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 9:02 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 157
What gauge spokes were you going to use? That would have significant bearing on the stiffness. I cannot fathom comfort being a significant difference between ti and steel when you ate talking about 3x lacing and 2.0"+ tires. I could see maybe lateral stiffness or increased maintenance (going out of true).

Maybe someone with more experience will chime in, though. OTOH, there is probably a reason why few people build with ti spokes.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 157
What gauge spokes were you going to use? That would have significant bearing on the stiffness. I cannot fathom comfort being a significant difference between ti and steel when you are talking about 3x lacing and 2.0"+ tires. I could see maybe lateral stiffness or increased maintenance (going out of true).

Maybe someone with more experience will chime in, though. OTOH, there is probably a reason why few people build with ti spokes.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 973
The A23 may be narrow compared to newer XC rims, but really, it's still as wide as many older MTB rims from Mavic, DT, Sun, WTB etc.

Big volume is a great idea for off-road, but if you're keen on running a smaller tyre, a rim that width will work just fine.

As to Titanium spokes, were you thinking of using Marwi or something like that? They seem like a far more affordable option than Pillar and relatively easy to get a hold of through BMX orientated bike shops.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:35 am
Posts: 5003
Location: New York
Built my ArchTek carbon 20mm rims I purchased here with group by after what 4 years :-)

Anyhow here is what I built:

20mm ArchTek carbon rims
Dati hubs 20/24
Sapim Laser spokes
Sapim brass nipples
Nipple washers

The wheels have a 2x crossing pattern on the front wheel and on the back drive and non drive side.
I chose 2x as they make a stiffer wheel.

The weight of the wheels is around 1050gr.
Total cost is 407$ plus my time to build them.

Also used BBB brake pads for carbon rims 13$ for a set of 4.

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I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:00 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1222
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I am going to have try a low profile carbon rim build to see how stiff it will be. Any comparisions to give me an idea?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:35 am
Posts: 5003
Location: New York
1. The low profile rim I built use a 2x crossing pattern for added stiffness on both wheels
2. I used nipple washers to set a slightly higher tension on the drive side of the rear wheel
3. Each spoke has nipple washers on both wheels.
4. I used a bit of grease on the threads of the spokes so they would be easier to tension and you would not run into a situation of turning the spoke to achieve tension.

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I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 1:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:45 pm
Posts: 7
Quote:
If you want to be anal and you want to build a good wheel, you must have a decent truing stand(doesn't have to be super expensive, but you should try to get one that is stiff)
Quote:

Which is stiff/not stiff? Is (in US) cheapestMinoura/Nashbar/Performance bike brand OK?

Quote:
nipple driver that has an adjustable depth pin
Quote:

What brand/model do you use?


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