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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:52 pm
Posts: 218
Location: eNZed
Thanks bm0p700f

Decided to go with BHS special SL23 20 radial/24 2x, and Schwalbe One tubeless 25mm; hoping to do more unsealed roads.

Anyone has recommendation(s) for wheelbuilding in Christchurch NZ? I'd love to start building my own but would rather have more experience & precision as well as supporting local craftsmanship.

TB25 BHS wheelset are crash damaged but rideable, but I have Bora One to fly the tubular flag. We'll see how the tubeless experiment goes, even though I do like tubulars full-time.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 11:06 am
Posts: 264
Location: North Adelaide, South Australia
Quick question about vertical truing - couldn't find an exact answer. Am just finishing up building a rear Pacenti sl23 and BHS SL211, and there is a distinct (0.6-0.8mm) hop around the rim weld that I cannot seem to improve by increasing spoke tension around this point. People have said previously that you can expect some hop around the joint - so what kind of hop have other people experienced around rim joints? And what do people consider an acceptable tolerance vertically?

I should mention that I did not experience this much hop around the joint when building the front with the same rim.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:46 am 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
Posts: 612
Location: Adelaide, Australia
@Asymptotic, try losening some spokes as well - no good just tightening if you don't losen a bit on the other side as well. I'm guessing 1/4 turn should do the trick

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Asymptotic wrote:
And what do people consider an acceptable tolerance vertically?


If it's annoying you when you ride, it's too much.
0.6-0.8mm is probably not that noticeable. 2mm would be.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 2:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 4:25 pm
Posts: 7
So I pulled the trigger on getting a set of carbon rims from good ol China and hoping they arrive tomorrow. 32 hole rear (to fit power tap) and 24 hole front. Planning on using thm for both road and the tt bike.

Anyhows, I'm now in the process of sorting the build and hence purchasing a front hub and spokes.

I'm thinking of this hub for the front: http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on- ... etrack-hub Seems very cheap! Any thoughts!?

With regard to spokes I'm thinking of going for CX Ray spokes. Cheapest I can find are @ £1.99/spoke - http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WSSACXR/sapim-cx-ray-spoke - although they don't appear to have a good range of length.

Does anyone know what spoke length I would need for both the rear and the front given the rims are 50mm deep, the front has the above hub and the rear will have a cycleops powertap?

Appreciate any thoughts guys!

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
That front hub is cheap all right. But that's all that is going for it. It's heavy, large and has no QR.

Why are you getting a cheap inappropriate front hub and then using expensive bladed spokes? Makes no sense. Round Sapims cost 1/3 what the CXrays cost.

To get the spoke lengths you need the ERD of the rims and the diameters (@ the spoke holes) and spacing of the hub flanges. Then you plug the values into spokcalc or DTs on line calculator. It's best to measure the ERD yourself just to be sure.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 3:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:44 am
Posts: 334
-Measure the ERD yourself.
-Choose hubs. Get dimensions from manufacturer, or measure yourself.
-Decide lacing patterns
-Put all data in online spoke calculator

Job done


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 4:25 pm
Posts: 7
Thanks both.

As to hub choice...being a bit uninformed at bike stuff, was led to believe negligible gains would be achieved by going above that hub in terms of spec. I'm thinking that may be BS though!? What about this one - http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HUPXPRO/planet-x-pro-hub - would you guys say it is more 'appropriate' for a set of aero spoke?

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Those hubs are appropriate for road wheels. No one builds road wheels with high flange track hubs anymore. It'd be extra silly for aero wheels.

The specs they give for those road hubs re: flange diameter etc are what you need (along with rim ERD) to calculate spoke length. Nipple washers are probably a good idea. If you're using Sapim nipples then you'd use Sapim Poly-axe washers.

To measure ERD cut the elbows off two straight spokes and cut the spokes to exactly a nice round length like 200mm or 250mm. Thread on nipples until the spoke is flush with the bottom of the slot. I use thread locker on the nipples. To measure ERD put your measuring spokes in opposing holes and measure the distance between the ends, adding or subtracting from the total length of both spokes as appropriate.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:49 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 2633
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Ignore hop at the weld because its at the weld. Truing that out will lead to uneven tension which is bad. If the rim is not reasonably round when tensions are even you have a bad rim never try to true the hop out. It needs to be 2mm out to be really bad. anything less than 1mm will not even be noticeable when riding.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am
Posts: 284
I have a stupid question that is a bit off-topic, but don't want to make a new thread just for it. Will a 42mm valve length work on a 34mm rim, specifically the November Rail 34?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:34 am
Posts: 214
MNX1024 wrote:
I have a stupid question that is a bit off-topic, but don't want to make a new thread just for it. Will a 42mm valve length work on a 34mm rim, specifically the November Rail 34?

Will most likely need 60mm valve length for 34mm rims.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 11:09 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 404
MNX1024 wrote:
I have a stupid question that is a bit off-topic, but don't want to make a new thread just for it. Will a 42mm valve length work on a 34mm rim, specifically the November Rail 34?


Yeah, probably not, but may depend on your pump. The threaded Lezyne pump heads, for example, don't require much valve stem. Just make sure your portable pumps/co2 heads won't leave you stranded!

For reference, I used a 60mm stem on my 50mm rims and could only use my threaded pump heads. I use 60mm stems on my 45mm rims now quite comfortably.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Posts: 1521
Location: Vienna Austria
BTW; if you are using valve extensions and a Lezyne/threaded head pump, make sure your extensions have theads at the end - some of the non-removable valve types don't, which means you don't have to carry your pump since it won't work anyway :(


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 4:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 404
Good point. And if they screw in at the core, you might want to Loctite them too!


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