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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2014 7:37 am
Posts: 156
hello I'm currently looking into building up a tubular wheelset for my new bike - i fluctuate between 60-65kg, ride mostly rolling terrain, with the occasionally excursion to the mountains for a few weeks.

with that out of the way ill cut to the chase

rims: chinese carbons, 30-50mm in depth. I'm thinking ill go staggered 30f 50r.

i was planning on going 20/24 as this seems a popular choice, and i already have a set of bonti hubs laying around with this drilling

spokes: probably going double butted, but is there a big difference between a wheel with double vs triple butted? obviously less weight with the triples, but how do they ride? i pedal some fairly rough roads, the occasional gravel track. obviously being only ~63kg I'm no powerhouse but i like my wheels to be relatively solid and not require constant truing. not too bothered by a bit of extra weight either

lacing: the only wheels I've owned have been 32 3x/32 3x and 20 radial/24 3x so i will probably go with the same lacing on the 20/24s i had.

building: i will be building them myself, as i do with all my wheels now. but I've never built carbon wheels before. spoke washers seem like a wise idea, anything special i need to do or keep in mind?

looking forward to your feedback, seems like theres a lot of knowledge on here


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am
Posts: 159
I just built my first set of carbon wheels (I have built probably a dozen other wheelsets). I used polyax nipple washers since I typically do -- more for providing a consistent nipple-rim interface; I have found it makes the builds easier. Some rims may require larger washers; you should probably see if the rims you are looking at recommend washer use.

For 24h you want 2x, not 3x. 3x can usually work for 28h, but not 24. Radial and 2x sounds good. I have a set of 50mm clinchers that are radial and 2x with CX-Ray spokes and they are plenty stiff (I weigh around 75kg). So lightweight 2.0/1.5/2.0 double butted or similar triple butted should be fine, if you are doing 38mm+.

Good luck. Sounds fun.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 3:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
If you are not going to use aero spokes then Lasers would be fine, washers in the rim are not needed. If the rim needs these the manufacturer will say so if they don't they don't. Also finding washers that will fit may prove hard.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:33 pm
Posts: 2
Evening all,

Talking myself into building some wheels for Crits only. Currently weigh 63kg. Never built a wheel before so the LBS will be tensioning/truing.

38mm Chinese Rims (Carbon tubs) 20/24H on to 20/24H Hope RS Hubs with CX ray spokes. Any issue with radial lacing these wheels. Hope say yes, however some wheelbuiders have said no?

Can anyone suggest an optimum lacing pattern.

Currently sifting through this great thread, lots of gen, so many options!

Cheers


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1639
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
If the hub maker says no radial, try 1x. You can do it all heads in/out like you would radial.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:42 pm 
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eric wrote:
If the hub maker says no radial, try 1x. You can do it all heads in/out like you would radial.


Interesting thanks Eric. Could this be achieved on the rear too? Any issues with the angle into the nipple/rim?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 4:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I've done 1x heads in on the DS as a way to increase bracing angle. Other than slightly reducing derailleur clearance it works ok. I don't see why you couldn't do it on the NDS. You could do heads out like typical radial NDS spoking (which slightly reduces tension differential at the cost of reducing bracing angle). For 1x all heads in/out you may need to put a slight bend in the outer spoke at the cross. Spoke angle into the rim would be the same as radial, into the hub is different but no more so than 2x.

The rear NDS spokes are at the lowest tension of any spokes in the wheel so if radial is going to be safe anywhere it should be safe there.

But for the rear NDS I'd just do 2x. None of the alternative spoke patterns I have tried on the rear have been markedly better for spoke life than 2x/2x or 3xDS/2xNDS.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:19 am
Posts: 633
Location: Brisbane, Oz
eric wrote:
You could do heads out like typical radial NDS spoking (which slightly reduces tension differential at the cost of reducing bracing angle). For 1x all heads in/out you may need to put a slight bend in the outer spoke at the cross.
I had a few issues with NDS CX-rays breaking on a Chris King R45 hub using 3x so tried 1x heads out and it seems to have stopped the breakages.


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 Post subject: The wheelbuilding thread
PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 12:31 am 
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Location: Victoria, BC Canada
Caad78. You've not really talked yourself into building yourself a wheel set if you plan to have your LBS do the interesting part, tensioning and truing. You might as well leave them to do the entire build including lacing. At your 63kg 20/24 radial front and 2x/2x rear lacing is pretty much the choice. For spokes. If you don't opt for CX-Ray or Dt aerolites then try laser front, laser non-drive and race drive, or DT equivalents. Insist on measured tension and balanced.

Hope RS are radial compatible to 24h. Good to go.

Good luck.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:52 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I find Laser spokes both side work very well at your very light weight. Race spokes DS is a bit over kill, the rear wheel will be more than stiff enough with Lasers boths sides and it will be stable in the long term. I build alot with lasers both sides on the rear wheel and have zero issues most of my own wheels (I am 80 kg) use Lasers both sides on the rear my wheels are still very straight.

However as you are not truing and tensioning your LBS is they have to be comfortable with the parts and spokes you suggest. So take all advise here but if your LBS feels uncomortable about that choice humour them they have to feel comfortable building the wheel.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:46 pm
Posts: 63
bm0p700f wrote:
The thing is Miche hubs give this sort of tension balance and they work very well and build very reliable wheels. I have done hundreds.


I'd be interested to hear what tension levels these Miche builds produce.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 8:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:22 pm
Posts: 201
Location: Les Pays Bas
Is there anyone around that can provide me with some information regarding the DT Swiss RR440 rim? To be more specific: is it hard to mount a tire on them?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:46 pm
Posts: 63
http://www.reynoldscycling.com/news/

Interesting read from Paul Lew.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:49 pm
Posts: 3
Hi members forum.
I want to build carbon wheels. I have doubt. Do you should look to choose good carbon Rim clincher?

Thx
Regards


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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 6:37 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:51 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1222
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
The RR440 is fine rim. Tyre mounting is the same as the RR415 and RR465 not hard with conti tyres but I rarely find any tyre hard to mount except gator skin hardshell's on Mavic MA40 rims with those I had to resort to using a tyre lever to help.

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