HOT: Active* forum members generally gain 5% discount at starbike.com store!
Weight Weenies
* FAQ    * Search    * Trending Topics
* Login   * Register
HOME Listings Blog NEW Articles FAQ Contact About




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4956 posts ] 
Go to page Previous  1 ... 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 298, 299 ... 331  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 11:22 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:38 pm
Posts: 292
Good suggestion, I might try a set of those. My technique so far has been to mark the spokes with a felt tip so I can observe the twist, but it's not a perfect system.

_________________
Blog: http://thesetbackpost.com/


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 11:22 am 


Top
  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 6:26 pm 
Offline
Shop Owner
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 1244
Location: McCall, ID
Compensating for twist is something that can be relatively difficult to get perfect. I've been building wheels full time for 5 years now and I still struggle sometimes with compensating perfectly for every spoke.

This is one of the many reasons why proper stress relief is so important!!

_________________
http://www.zencyclery.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 6:57 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:39 pm
Posts: 373
Location: DC
So during my wheel build, how often do you suggest I should stress relieve the wheel in order to aid with the spoke wind up? I guess that that each time the wheel is stress relieved the spokes are able to unwind and creep back into being straight?

_________________
My Bikes:
BMC SLR01 TeamMachine
Cannondale CAAD8


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 8:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1813
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I do one really through stress relieve when the wheel is still some under final tension and a couple quick ones (squeezing pairs of spokes) after that.
There has to be enough tension on the spokes so you can momentarily overtension them past what they'd get when fully tensioned. Besides removing windup you're also seating the spokes in the hub and adjusting the elbow bend. But if you wait til the spokes are at full tension then you don't have room to get the wheel true again as you add more tension. Yea you could true it up by loosening and tightening like you would with a finished wheel but I like to make everything come together at the same time- when the wheel reaches final tension it's also true.

For stress releiving I squeeze the spokes together (see Sheldon Brown) and use a screwdriver to force the spoke crossings (also Sheldon). I adjust the elbow bend before that but if it needs more I'll do that too. I sometimes put the wheel on the floor on a pad and gently put side force on the rim (also described by Sheldon) but I'm not sure how good that is for hub bearings.

If the spokes tink when you first ride the wheels then you didn't stress relieve enough.

The twist-resist spoke holder tool I use is really nice but you'd expect that for a tool that expensive. Being spring loaded makes it easy to use.
They come in right and left handed versions depending on how you build wheels. I'm right handed but I use a left handed twist resist. Spoke wrench goes in my right hand.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 9:21 pm 
Offline
in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1621
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I find wind up rarely an issue even with Laser's. Even when it happens a bit repeated stress relieving get rid of the problem. I did find today on a build on a couple of spokes but no drama and nothing to worry about. If it happens to a big extent then I did not lubriate enough. I sometimes find changing the nipple helps as some nipples or spokes just do not like each other.

I do the first relieve at about 3/4 tension and I do 3-4 rounds to stretch the spokes as much as my hands allow. I normally see a tension drop at this point. I then dish and bring to full tension and true and the stress relieve and if the wheel moves a bit and true and stress relieve again and repeat that process until the wheel no longer moves when loaded. In the end all wheels will settle down and it is ready when stress the wheel does not cause movement. I do not flag spokes to see wind up as I see know need, correct and stress it will settle down in it's own time. I spent nearly 2 hours getting a build with no wind any where (XR-200 with lasers) to settle down and not move after stressing. Sometimes it takes time. On other builds it take no time at all. Generally I find the archetype quick to build with.

You will also doing this know if you are passed the tension limit of the rims as it just won't settle down as the wheel will move after stressing. In this case drop the tension by a quarter turn and see if it settles down.

The main thing is do not panic when building and make small incremental changes.

_________________
www.thecycleclinic.co.uk


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:57 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:04 am
Posts: 95
With regards to my powertap g3 and open pro build with 32 spokes, should I use DT competition or revolution spokes? The revs are about 48g lighter, which seems well worth having, but is there going to be a significant strength / reliability trade?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:15 am
Posts: 45
Location: Victoria, BC Canada
For powertap build, I'd not recommend 100% DT revolution. At minimum you could do Rev on NDS and Comp on DS. Or forego minor weight savings and use Comps all round. Or arguably even better, consider Wheelsmith DB-14

_________________
http://www.zedwheels.com - wheels made just for you


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:45 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 11:21 pm
Posts: 58
Anyone been caught out by having been sent a couple of wrong spoke lenghts in a set ? Just noticed in during my wheel build a few not having the same tension and then measured them against a few others and they were a few millimeters longer.:evil:

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 2


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:39 pm
Posts: 373
Location: DC
Thanks eric and bm0p700f for some solid info! At this point all parts are in and I hope to start the build sometime next week. Weights are as following:

-20h rim - 482gr
-24h rim - 479gr
-Nipples - 43gr
-Spokes - 213gr
-Hubs - 60gr front and 231gr rear

Looks like the wheel set should be a hair over 1500gr.

Image

_________________
My Bikes:
BMC SLR01 TeamMachine
Cannondale CAAD8


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:27 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2008 9:07 pm
Posts: 985
Location: Slovenia---that forest land
rich00 wrote:
Anyone been caught out by having been sent a couple of wrong spoke lenghts in a set ? Just noticed in during my wheel build a few not having the same tension and then measured them against a few others and they were a few millimeters longer.:evil:

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 2



It happened from time to time:)

so before build check spokes if they are correct length

_________________
http://kavitec.blogspot.com/

click this! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0m8maAO-m-w


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 2:32 am 
Offline
Shop Owner
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 1244
Location: McCall, ID
@plpete- Usually I find that I end up stress relieving a wheel 6-8 times during a wheel build. After I add tension and make it all the way back to the valve hole I'll stress relieve, then repeat.

You'll know you've stress relieved enough when you deflect the spokes and the wheel doesn't go out of true/dish.

_________________
http://www.zencyclery.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 3:01 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:39 pm
Posts: 373
Location: DC
Great. Thanks Zen! I will be doing the build tuesday evening and will be building with the head mechanic side by side as he has a set to build as well. Very stoked and will try to take some photos of the process.

_________________
My Bikes:
BMC SLR01 TeamMachine
Cannondale CAAD8


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 11:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:43 am
Posts: 450
New wheels, based on NOS campagnolo strada XL rims and novatec hubs, nothing too fancy but it should get me through few winters. Not WW by any standards, only the rear wheel is more heavy than my carbon 24mm wheels lol. They are 36spokes though and still the weight is 1800gr. I dig the looks too, quite retro.

Image

Image

_________________
Planet-X Nanolight HM - 5.63kg


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:46 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:39 pm
Posts: 373
Location: DC
I had the chance to get started on my build last night. Really enjoying the experience so far! By no means should below be used as a guide, as this is my very first build, but just wanted to share with others thinking about building their own wheel set. The process takes a good amount of attention to detail if you want to do a good job. Patience is key too. Before I got started with my own build I helped to cut and thread some blank spokes for another build that my friend was doing with me.

This was a neat tool that cut the spokes to the correct lenght and then threaded them
Image

Once I had all the spokes ready I separated the ones for the front wheel build and began to prep them with a spoke-prep compound. The secret is not to use too much as it will make trueing more difficult and make the nipples hard to turn.
Image

Next step was to apply some grease to the spoke holes in the rim where the nipple would sit. This was supposed to help them sit evenly and prevent any metal on metal friction. Trueing should be easier too as the tension gets higher.

Next I began to lace the front wheel. Radial lacing was pretty simple and just as with any lacing getting the key spoke right is the most important part. A little detail that adds an extra touch is lining up the logo on the hub so that it can be seen through the valve hole.

Image

Image

At this point the front wheel was laced but everything was still very loose. I had the nipples screwed on most of the way in so they are just showing one thread of the spoke. Beer helped with the repetitive nature of lacing :lol:

Image

Once I finished the front wheel I moved on to the rear which was a 2x lacing on both sides. A tip that I was given was to use two different colors of spoke prep for DS and NDS spokes so you don't make a mistake of using the wrong spoke on wrong side.

Rear wheel required more attention as the spokes braced at different angles, some spokes had to go in heads in and others heads out and making sure that the spokes cross correctly over and under. Here is a photo of the wheel coming together:

Image

Once both wheels were laced I went ahead and tapped the spokes with a hammer and soft aluminium rod as shown below in order to seat the spokes at the heads. This process was repeated on both sides.

Image

More to come...

_________________
My Bikes:
BMC SLR01 TeamMachine
Cannondale CAAD8


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:46 pm 


Top
  
 
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 1:45 am 
Offline
Shop Owner
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 1244
Location: McCall, ID
Looks like an awesome build plpete! The Great Lakes beer is almost as necessary as a spoke wrench :) Let us know what you think of the build once you have a chance to ride them!

_________________
http://www.zencyclery.com


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4956 posts ] 
Go to page Previous  1 ... 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 298, 299 ... 331  Next


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: trex021, Yahoo [Bot] and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

   Similar Topics   Author   Replies   Views   Last post 
There are no new unread posts for this topic. Wheelbuilding - Every 5th spoke too short...

in Road

shinkansen

14

3298

Tue Apr 01, 2014 5:00 am

ProEvoSLTeamHighMod View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. The 'hub help' thread

[ Go to page: 1, 2 ]

in Everything wheels

kavitator

20

1438

Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:19 pm

sanrensho View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Not another what wheel thread...

in Everything wheels

peted76

5

503

Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:42 pm

peted76 View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Thread title V2.0

in Test

pam

0

270

Sat Mar 08, 2014 2:38 am

pam View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Another Bike fit thread, how does my fit look? Help.

[ Go to page: 1, 2 ]

in Road

plag

26

1583

Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:09 pm

TwiggyTN View the latest post


It is currently Sat Dec 27, 2014 7:48 pm

All times are UTC + 1 hour




Advertising   –  FAQ   –  Contact   –  Convert   –  About

© Weight Weenies 2000-2013
hosted by starbike.com


How to get rid of these ads? Just register!


Powered by phpBB