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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 9:35 am 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I have found revs wind up more than Lasers. I have done many builds with Laser/brass nipples and have had very little wind up some time almost none. With alloy nipples I tend to get none. CX-ray's are just to expensive to bother with most of the time and aero advantage they give is very small.

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Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 9:35 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 2:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 11:21 pm
Posts: 59
Hi all,

Looking at doing a new wheel buid for myself for my new bike ( ridley fenix). I have built a few Kinlin Xr270 with novatechs , Front 24 2x and rear 28 2x with DT comps. I've been happy with that setup. I weigh 82kg and do general riding and crits in the summer. I was looking at Xc279, just wondering if I can get away with 24 2x rear or keep 28 2x. Any thoughts ?

Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:52 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
@rich00- The XC279 is a decent rim, all though it is pretty darn heavy. I think the SL23 from Pacenti is a better hoop. It's wider, lighter, and comparably rigid.
With regards to lacing 2x is best at 24h. Usually I go 3x on 28h.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 6:24 am 
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@Zen Cyclery . Thanks for the advice on the SL33. Any reas0n why 3x is better than 2x when doing 28 spokes ?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 6:44 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Better bracing angle for transmitting torque. Does it makes a difference in actual riding feel or in wheel longevity? My experiments have been inconclusive in that regard. But it doesn't hurt anything other than adding a gram or two due to slightly longer spokes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 5:59 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
The real world difference between 2x and 3x on the same wheel won't be noticeable on the road. I just go with 3x on 28 out of habit, all though both are perfectly suitable.

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 Post subject: £500 to spend
PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 6:55 pm 
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Posts: 81
What road wheels would you buy/build for £500?

Im only light at 64kg so they don't need to be hefty

My current wheels are 1,600g so i'd like to beat that by as much as possible

UK stuff only


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 Post subject: Re: £500 to spend
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:48 am 
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Posts: 81
Stans tubeless rims seem to make into a light wheel but what tyres do you use?

or do any clincher tyres work with the sealant?


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 Post subject: The Three builds
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:58 am 
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Posts: 5
Alright, I have come up with three builds and would like the opinion of the Weenies. Spokes will be DT swiss Aerolite Nipples will be DT swiss, and velo plugs.

Would like these wheels to to work for 3 day regular riding, 60-80 miles on the weekend, and breaking into randonneuring. Weight 145lbs. Shooting for sub 14lb bike build.

One
Durable?

R hub Chris King R45 24 holes (maybe 28?)
F hub Alchemy Elf 20
Rims Kinlin Xr19w

Two
Light?

R hub Tune Mag 170 24 holes
F hub Tune Mig 170 20 holes
Rims Kinlin XR200

Three
Fairly Durable and light?

R Hub Alchemy Orc Ul 28
F Hub Alchemy Elf 20
Rims Kinlin Xr200 or Xr19w


Would the Velocity A23s be an appropriate rim choice for any of these?


Please discuss?


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 Post subject: Re: £500 to spend
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:08 pm 
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Location: uk
You need road tubeless.still very limited..

Sent from my GT-I8160 using Tapatalk 2

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:40 pm 
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@almostweenie- Admittedly I'm a skeptic of both the XR200 and the XR19w. Those are both super soft rims and if your going to build on either one I think the wide flange spacing of the Alchemys is a must. I'd pick the 340 any day over the shallow Kinlins too.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 6:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:26 am
Posts: 5
Zen, thanks for responding! I see on your website that you are selling the stans 340s.

Would you say the would be a good pair withe any of these builds?

Also, what are your thoughts on the 340 and tire blowing off issue?

Zen Cyclery wrote:
@almostweenie- Admittedly I'm a skeptic of both the XR200 and the XR19w. Those are both super soft rims and if your going to build on either one I think the wide flange spacing of the Alchemys is a must. I'd pick the 340 any day over the shallow Kinlins too.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am
Posts: 285
New to wheel building and plan to tackle building my first wheelset very soon. So, I'm here for some information and insight from this wonderful community!

Here's some of my questions, hope you guys don't mind if they sound stupid, please do bare with me since I am a newb?

Aside from sheldon brown's wheelbuilding and parktools' wheel maintenance's article, what are some good read for wheelbuilding and maintenance?

Comparision of alloy and brass nipple, when and where I should use them?

Prefered way of stress releasing?

How to determine the amount of tension needed?

Explanation of DS higher tension vs NDS lower tension and how to determine what is the proper tension for the NDS?

2:1 ratio(ex. 24H Rear Hub, 16:8) drilling on rear hubs, is it worth it and does it really offer any real benefit by allowing equal tension on all spokes?

Thanks in advance guys!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:02 pm 
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
almostweenie wrote:
Couple questions.

1) Seems like your more fond of the xr200 than the xr19w. Mostly trying to go with the xr19w to have a slightly stiffer wheel so I could get away with a 20/24 build. Would you say that the xr19w build 20/24 would be durable enough for my application? Or would you still recommend going 20/28? If so I just cant use the gold tune hub I had my heart set on. Fairwheel doesnt carry the gold tune 170 in 28hole.


2) Also, sounds like you think Alchemy is a better bet over tune 170s. Is it just for my application? Care to expand on that? Would you go Elf/Orc Ul? I'm a bit hesitant about the Orc UL, if for no other reason its only been out a month. Also, I'm not sure I can get a industry price on the hubs.

3) Finally, part of the reason I'm trying to stay away from bladed spokes is because, its more of a pain to true them. Its a lot easier for my mechanics to true round spokes. Also, because im not a big guy who will be building a light build, ive heard problems about crosswinds using bladed spokes and really light bikes with light riders. Any thoughts on this?


I thought I was in the twilight zone because your thread disappeared, but now I see it got moved over here...

You'd want 28r. The XR19W might be slightly stiffer, but it's in the noise.

I like the Alchemys because they build stiffer wheels, and are a US company with great service. In the past it has been tough to deal with Tune.

CX-Rays are the easiest spokes to deal with because you can prevent twist. Just get a blade holder. You won't be thrown around by the wind... these are very slight spokes, not like the fat ones you see on some wheels.

Depending on what rim you use, veloplugs or two layers of Stan's tape will work well.

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 Post subject: Re: The Three builds
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:06 pm 
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
almostweenie wrote:
Would like these wheels to to work for 3 day regular riding, 60-80 miles on the weekend, and breaking into randonneuring. Weight 145lbs. Shooting for sub 14lb bike build.


Randonneuring and light don't really go together.

Think about using Alchemy hubs and the SL23s. I think you will be happier even if you miss your weight target.

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 Post subject: Re: The Three builds
Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:06 pm 


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