Thanks for all comments. I'm still in doubt, so I won't run with that. I'm feather weight, but I have an aggressive style on the road! I like sprinting uphills, jump small obstacles, escape the peloton at full power, etc... So, as I can see, people have a "50-50" comment about these XR-200 rims. Maybe, I will forget them and choose the XR-270 or the XR19W. They're still inexpensive but stiffer and more durable. Beyond that, I train in some rough roads around my neighborhood. The best option wouldn't be the lightest, but the more versatile pair of wheels. I could use the XR-200 without having problems, but I think I should limit my style. Here's the cover of the book written by Jobst Brandt that was recommended by Eric. Must be excellent!


I'm gonna come with news about my choices soon...

@xis- I would advise to be a skeptic of the XR19W. The low tension capacity and weight makes for a pretty soft hoop.

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I like the XR270s- they're reasonably light at around 440g and stiffer than other rims around that weight that I have used, such as Open Pros.

But I have cracked some at the nipple holes for the DS spokes. 120kgf is the limit I have been told, 110kgf is safer (assuming the NDS is high enough). I have tried sapim nipple washers on the DS but that doesn't seem to completely crack proof the rim.

Hi,

Sorry to ask again, as this is probably somewhere in this thread (can't find it... )...

Can someone provide me the Powertap Pro 2011 (older version) road hub dimensions ?



Are these correct ?

Thanks guys

Louis

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1100kgf or just under 1100N is a low tension limit for any rim. Rim like this need will always give low NDS tensions is a rear hub with wide flange spacings are used. To build sucessfully I would strongly recomend a spoke tension gauge like my new toy the Sapim tension gauge (or the Park one if you are on a budget) to ensure even spoke tension. Personally I prefer the XR300, it may be heavier but can take 1200N DS tension. I would not use a low tension rim for any rider who says they are aggressive and is prone to powerful outbursts of speed as the chance of NDS spoke going slack goes up.

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wheelsets with xr200 rim are ok - many 24/28 are no problem fro 75-80kg riders. But with this rim always is hard get perfect even tension

Much better is Xr-300 - perfect even tension and with 24/28 spokes it is very stiff

I ride StanNoTubes ZTR Olympic rims on MTB bike - 26"
They have max spoke tension 110kg - i build them with WheelFanatyk tensiometer on 100-110kg and after hard rides (4 months 2-5times per week) in forest they are still like new (tension is same as new and) - but it is 32 spoke wheelset.
I am 82kg rider

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click this! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqfFdCWAH5I&list=UUEtgd6K9EDGmoSE2YYipQgQ&index=20

@Louis- The specifications that you have in your post are correct.

kavitator- I agree with you about the 200. I have always had difficulty getting those to be perfect true, and I've found that the XR270 and 300 are much easier to build on.

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Considering all comments, I decided that I will no longer build wheels with the XR-200 rims, unless I would just do Long Slow Distance in moderate mode. I do fartlek training sessions and race simulation which includes fast accelerations, fast responses and demands strong wheels, and I cannot tolerate torsion and low spoke tension, etc... For now, I gave up building a lightweight wheel set. Instead, I'll buy a pair of strong middleweight wheels. I will buy books to learn more about the art of building wheels to get all necessary knowledge and I'll read this thread completely.
Thanks for all, buddies!!!

Odd that, as the XR 200's in 28 hole form I have found very easy to round and straight with even tension. Maybe I got lucky with the rims. Going with a heavy rim XIS is not a bad idea. I feel I have to treat my XR200 wheelset with care but that is O.K with me.

1500g for wheelset is light enough.

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Hi, bm0p700f. Yes, it's not a bad idea. But I found really good options of mounted versatile wheels weighing about 1500g for every day use. It will give me enough time for learning more about wheel building, because I still want to build very lightweight and strong wheels one day!

Guys,

Am looking to build up a set of climbing wheels for my yearly alpine adventures, was thinking Extralite SL2 and SLX hubs laced to Stans Alpha 340’s. I’m 75-80kg (165-175lbs), so my question is should I go for 20/24 or 24/28? I like light, but i also don't want to break them!

Brass nipples and Sapim X-ray, radial the front and 2x the rear (probably)

Thanks

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"We live in an age when unnecessary things are our only necessities." Oscar Wilde

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Parlee Z5i
Donhou Commuter

I am similar weight to you and did some alpine work with Alpha's last year. Suggest the following:
- the Alpha's are soft hoops, 24/28 are needed
- alloy nipples all round are fine, brass on the DS if you want to
- lacing: radial front and 2x rear (both DS and NDS) is fine
- I used CX-Ray front and NDS, with Sapim Race on the DS to improve stiffness

that will be one light wheelset, enjoy

Thanks!

_________________
"We live in an age when unnecessary things are our only necessities." Oscar Wilde

Pegoretti Responsorium
Parlee Z5i
Donhou Commuter

Louis- the PT hub dimensions vary depending on if it's a 12mm or 15mm axle. The numbers posted are for the 12mm. On the 15mm axle both flanges are shifted about 1.5mm to the left.

The 15mm axle has the press on axle caps; the older 12mm has what looks like adjustable cones that take a 17mm cone wrench (but the bearings on all except the very early ones are cartridge bearings).

I think the Pro is 15mm. My SL from 2008 is a 12mm.

Thanks, Thprice! I see a reason to try this set! As a newbie, I didn't know that I could mix different spokes in the same project! That's great! I'll consider that in my project.