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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:57 pm
Posts: 22
Hi, mates!

I'm a new member here. First of all, I wanna thank everybody for the information available, that helps a lot!!!
English is not my mother language. Hope you all understand what I need.
I intend to build a wheel set using the components below "with a little help from my friends" from Weight Weenies. :beerchug: (Beatles... =-] LoL!)

BITEX RAR9 REAR HUB
BITEX RAF10 FRONT HUB
MAC-AERO 424 CN SPOKES
GENERIC ALUMINUM NIPPLES
KINLIN XR-200 RIM 20H - FRONT
KINLIN XR-200 RIM 24H - REAR

Questions:

1) What type o lacing do you recommend? I was thinking in "radial" for the front wheel and "1 cross" for the rear wheel. What do you suggest?
2) What is the advantage of 1, 2, 3 or 4 cross when building a wheel?
3) How do I calculate the spoke length?
4) Anyone here that have these same Bitex hubs and Kinlin XR-200 rims could send the measurements necessary to calculate the spoke length?

I have these images from the Bitex website:
Image
Image

Information about me: My body mass is only 60 kg and my height is 1.72 m. Yes, I'm skinny! I think this wheel set can take me everywhere without effort! LoL!

I'm just a beginner (two years of cycling only), but one day I hope to contribute like you guys do. =)

Dear moderator, in case of this thread is not published in the right place, please move it. Thanks!


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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:15 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:35 am 
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Posts: 22
More information:

RAR9 REAR HUB SPECIFICATION :
Weight : 191g
Rolling System : Sealed Bearings / 4
Gauge : 14
Spoke Holes : 24H, 8/16H.
O.L.D : 130mm
Axle : Ø10 - A7075
P.C.D : Ø38.5 / 49.6
Casstte : Aluminum
Pawls : 6

RAF10 FRONT HUB SPECIFICATION :
Weight : 66g
Rolling System : Sealed Bearings / 4
Gauge : 14
Spoke Holes : 16 / 20
O.L.D : 100mm
Axle : M9 - A7075
P.C.D : Ø30
Flat Spoke


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:28 am
Posts: 115
Location: Berkeley, CA
We have a little thread about wheel building going on in the "Everything Wheels" sub forum: viewtopic.php?f=113&t=74564 You'll find more good information than you can probably handle there.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:57 am 
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Thanks, Wookieopolis! I've read some pages of "The wheelbuilding thread", but I decided to open this one for two reasons:
(1) To don't mix information. (2) This wheel set can be interesting for others.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:03 am 
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Posts: 1402
I don't think that rear hub is any good for triplet. In my mind the only good thing about triplet lacing is the ability to have a huge NDS bracing angle while still maintaining enough spoke tension to keep from going slack. At your weight you don't need to worry about the Non Drive Side spokes going slack. You'll have a better wheel all the way around by using the standard 12/12 version of that hub imo.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:22 am 
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Posts: 1626
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I'd use 2x on the rear. You need the spokes to be sort of tangential for torque transfer and with 1x they're only tangential a little. The torque will still get transfered and you won't be any slower but the spokes will stretch more while doing it and that could lead to reduced longevity.

I have built 1x DS 2x NDS on Bitex hubs and it works ok for me. Building 1x lets me lace the DS heads in for increased bracing angle.

On that front hub I prefer either 1x or heads in. Bitex put a large chamfer on the outside of the spoke holes. If you lace heads out the head sits in that chamfer and that leave the elbow unsupported. Eventually they break. That's my experience (and what I read from Jobst Brandt's book); other people including pro wheel builders say it's not a problem for them so perhaps I did something else wrong.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 11:49 pm
Posts: 715
Location: Netherlands
I have a very similar setup, but 24-28. those rims are too weak for 20+24, but anyway... you have to do radial on the rear non drive side and 2x on the drive side, radial on the front.

google for expocalc spreadsheet to calculate the spokes lengths or send me a message and i will send the file to you.

Questions; where did you purchased the components? do you have a nice cheap source? i´m specially interested in the cn spokes, I've heard they are nice and cheap.

best regards.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:03 am 
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bricky21, Thanks for sharing your opinion. I didn't know that. I'm almost completely blind to this subject.

eric, I've read some things about "torque transfer". The only thing I can say after reading some texts, is that wheel building is the "Nirvana", the "climax" of bicycle mechanics. Ha-ha! I really appreciate your help.

Liggero, I didn't buy the components yet, but I after buying and receiving the products, I will come back here to leave that information to whom it may concern. And thanks for offering help. I will send you a message. Now, I'm thinking in building a F24H_x_R28H. haha! Cruel doubt!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:21 am 
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Location: Netherlands
then, if you do 28 on the rear, you can go 3x on the drive side.

get a light spokes, otherwise this build will make no sense. those rims are too weak, and too narrow. I would suggest to go with a wider and stronger one, like the new pacenti.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:07 am 
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Yes, I think that 24x28 is better. And about the XR-200 rims, I've read that they are not the strongest, but do the job and are durable. What do you think? I see many people using these rims and not complaining about them. But, if you use them and you are telling me that, I must think about! :smartass:

SET UP:
2 rims = 770g
52 pokes = 234g
52 nipples = 20g
Front hub = 191g
Rear hub = 66g
52 Veloplugs = 8.1g
Total: 1.289g (Not bad, hmmnn?!)

The Pacenti seems to be a good option, but may be more expensive...

I see that there's a difference between "round holes" and "key holes" in the Bitex hubs. Do you know why? Maybe because of the different between round and aero spokes?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:32 am 
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I forgot that according to Bitex website, the RAF10 hub is only available in 16 and 20 holes and the RAR9 only in 24 holes. So, I'll come back to the "plan A" again.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:11 am 
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Location: NZ
I like this suggestion: Novatec hubs + Pacenti rims + Sapim Laser spokes.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:31 am 
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Posts: 3177
Location: New Zealand
He's 60kg, guys.....the XR200 will be strong enough for him ;)

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Used to race....got too wrinkly and old ;) Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:45 pm 
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Posts: 1626
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Keyhole spoke holes are for bladed aero spokes. They make the flange weaker. If you use aero spokes like CX-rays you don't need them- they'll fit through standard size spoke holes.

Jobst Brandt's book is a good reference for wheel building.


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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:45 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:54 pm 
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Posts: 1222
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I'm 80kg and I have no issues with an 28H XR-200 laced 2x with Sapim Laser on a novatec F482 hub. I think I may be at the sensible weight limit for this rim though. At 60kg XR-200 will be more than fine. A 24H XR-200 however is asking for trouble.

I agree about the points made about triplet lacing, it needs a hub designed for it rather than a hub where less holes are drilled in the NDS flange.

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