From the Chris King website:
Does the hub warranty cover radial lacing?
Answer: The only Chris King hub to allow radial lacing is the R45 product line. The driveside of the rear hub should always have at least one cross.

@WinterRider, @bm0p700f... although very theoretical, I am finding this disucussion fascinating as well. For me, who started using factory built wheels around 2000 with the first generation of Campy Nucleons, I have just in the last 2-3 years staretd revisiting the whole handbuilt tubular thing. Prior to that I had always ridden on clinchers. Anyway, while I have worked on numerous high end "superwheels" the only wheels I ever actually build from scratch are the classic low profile 32 spoke 3 cross wheels I grew up with (I know, boring). But they work, and I have to admit that I am really hooked on the ride quality (and looks) of my Nemesis/Record wheelsets. Like I mentioned, I've been building several sets of these recently and am actually experimenting with the DT Revolutions on the NDS on one of the sets but I haven't ridden them yet to see if I can actaully feel any difference on the road. Can you? I know the "theory" behind them, but they just seem so thin, and I'm a bigger guy at 195-200lbs, that I've felt more confident using the DT Comps both sides. I've never had a problem with spoke breakage in the past either, so using the Revolutions is more of a theoretical advantage for me I suppose.
Thanks.

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My Colnago C59
My Special Colnago EPQ

My latest... flash I guess one could call it.. is trying some of those Sapim Super spokes on a rear. Half the weight of Sapim Strong... supposedly stronger overall per breakage. To date.. mostly I have avoided spokes that wind up when assembling. Those are 1.8 - 1.4 - 1.8's.. I suspect not laterally stiff enough for my weight. [?].

I'm considering building a custom set of wheels opposed to buying a nice set of 1400-1500 gram mavics

I want to go with king hubs and possibly he'd rims. Any issues with going radial laced on the front?

Any other rim recommendations?

See wheelbuilding thread......all the info you'd ever want and more.

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2012 Fuji Altamira SE - 6.42kg

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=111416" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

if you want carbon ENVE and Zipp are nice. the Smart System 3.4 is sweet. (looks like the below picture when laced to King 45's in mango with DT aerolites, radial laced on the front. This is my buddy from work's bike and he's well pleased with the setup.) The 202's/303's are good choices from Zipp for all-around wheels too...

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Sur La Plaque!

2012 Ridley Damocles RS
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=111632
2012 Dekerf Team SST
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=112060&p=957055#p957055

Radial is fine on the R45 front. For rims, maybe take a look at the Velocity A23 OC. I built those into R45s a few weeks back and I was quite impressed with the DS/NDS tension ratio.

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http://www.zencyclery.com

http://www.wheelbuilder.org

I should mention I want to stay less then 1200. Thinking I would also go with Sapim spokes

Winter rider- so long as spokes have tension it is my understanding that wheel stiffness (any type) is independent of spoke tension. Most of the radial stiffnees is down to the inherent stiffnes of the rim anyway.

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www.thecycleclinic.co.uk

photo cycle. Less than 1200g. That not going to happen with CK hubs or a clincher rim like the A23. You would need 20F/24R Kinlin XR 200's, very light hubs and light gauge spokes to get that weight. You will have a wheel that will flex alot and proabbly have a short life.

A 1400-1500g wheelset that is stiff and durable is easily attainable. It get harder below 1400g

If you are no more than 80kg and ride on smoothish roads a 1300g Kinlin XR-200 wheelset is doable.

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www.thecycleclinic.co.uk

@photocycle- I understand that you may want to get under 1200 grams, but at that point you may be sacrificing performance. I think that going with a slightly heavier build will give you more rigidity and a better ride quality.

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http://www.zencyclery.com

http://www.wheelbuilder.org

Hi WinterRider, how did you lace the 10 spoke NDS? In theory, with 10 spokes you can lace 1x, and even 2x, but you did this with a 18H flange so the holes are not evenly spaced for 10 spokes so it will be interesting to see the results of your efforts

Sorry under $1200 US , I am happy to between 1400-1500 grams


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There is no need to spend so much though. Rims and spokes will only take up so much of the budget, you will be blowing most of the build on hubs. I do think CK hubs are too expensive for what they are. Using DA hubs (7900 can still be bough new) in a 24-28H drilling, A23 rims and CX-ray spokes would be chepaer option and weight in with alloy nipples at around 1530g. That would be a good build so long as you are not too heavy or too powerfull. The Archetype rim will add a some more grams but would be stiffer.

The DT Swiss RR440 might be a good rim to use though but we have yet to see it in the U.K.

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www.thecycleclinic.co.uk

So the trick is keeping the post short hey...
My post on the last page could've said something along the lines of photocycler's post, only I don't really know where to start. I'm ~80kg, hoping to replace a set of Ksyrium sl's with a custom set around 1300-1400g with similar if not better performance, but much better aero. Is it possible to achieve this well under phoocycler's stated $1200 budget (cheaper than the Ksyriums on sale)? Suggestions on a components as a starting point would be much appreciated (obviously I'll pay attention to suggestions for photocycler too).