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Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:44 am
by Steno
Bonus question for the day...

Going with the HplusSon polished TB14 rims... and a titantium bike and seat post with polished graphics, black fork, bb, saddle and headset.... Silver or Black Chris King hubs?

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:44 am
by Weenie

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:02 pm
by Zen Cyclery
Steno wrote:Bonus question for the day...

Going with the HplusSon polished TB14 rims... and a titantium bike and seat post with polished graphics, black fork, bb, saddle and headset.... Silver or Black Chris King hubs?


I would say definitely go with silver. Black Kings are kinda plain Jane IMO and I think that silver from CK is much more sleek and sexy.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:53 pm
by Gregorio
Anyone have an opinion on BHS mtb Disc hubs. I have had good luck with a couple of sets of the road hubs.
How do they rate? I did a search but came up empty.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 4:30 pm
by teleguy57
Steno wrote:Bonus question for the day...

Going with the HplusSon polished TB14 rims... and a titantium bike and seat post with polished graphics, black fork, bb, saddle and headset.... Silver or Black Chris King hubs?


Per my response above and echoing Zen -- SILVER! :beerchug:

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 5:24 pm
by djay001
Hi there,

I got a set of 24/24 novatec hub and i want to know if a set of Kinlin XR-270/24 holes rear and XR-200/24 holes front could be fin for a 160 pounds guy.

Can it be a good idea?

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 5:46 pm
by Zen Cyclery
@djay-That build should work just fine for ya. I must say, I'm glad your going with an XR270 in the back. An XR200 would be way too soft for your weight in that hole count for a rear wheel. For a front it should be just fine.
Do you know what lacing pattern you were thinking of doing?

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:09 pm
by djay001
Zen Cyclery wrote:@djay-That build should work just fine for ya. I must say, I'm glad your going with an XR270 in the back. An XR200 would be way too soft for your weight in that hole count for a rear wheel. For a front it should be just fine.
Do you know what lacing pattern you were thinking of doing?

with 24/24, i think i will do 2X everywhere, maybe radial front, but i don't know if novatec hub can old radial. I think the 2x will be safer.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:20 pm
by bm0p700f
If its the A291 then front radial should be fine. Ithink 2x looks better anyway.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 7:15 pm
by MajorMantra
Does anyone know what size Veloplugs the H+ Son Archetype takes? I'm building up a couple of sets but I don't have the rims yet.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 1:21 am
by styrrell
Maybe a silly question but the only bad wheel I ever built (lots of broken spoke nipples ) was a velocity rim. I'm getting set to build using a different velocity rim so, whick side do the spokes go, in relation to the holes on the outer diameter of the rim. On the bad wheel I assumed if the spoke hole (out diam) was off set let them the spoke went to the left side flange and vice versa. I couldn't see any visible offset of the holes when looking at the inner diameter of the rim.

Any advice? Escape tubulars if that helps

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:16 pm
by bm0p700f
Completley bust my RR415 wheel today on a ride. Not the wheels fault it was my own stupidity. The rim is completely toast.

It been an expensive day.

I think the the above poster the problem you had was by lacing the the wheel so that you used the "offset" wrongly so you ended up with a bend in the spooke at the nipple. I noticed the first time I built a velocity A23 up. I dismantled and rebuilt the other way and has been well. You have to lace the opposite wasy the offset looks I think. I have not built for a a few months so my memory has gone a bit fuzzy.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:15 pm
by kavitator
if there is adubt about spoke orientation put nipple with spoke and its show itself in wich way

bm0p700f : post some photos and what was mistake to destroy them?

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 12:07 am
by bm0p700f
Rather embassaring the front weheel lost grip on some decking on approach to cafe and got trapped between the wooden board writing of the wheel. I as I said really stupid.

I can stomach it I will take a photo tommorrow but the wheel will be rebuilt tommorrow. The spoke, nipples and hub look reusable its the rim that toast. I will have to take a proper look at the condition of the spokes and nipples first though.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 5:34 pm
by Aakoo
I need some advice. New to wheelbuilding, been truing my wheels before but never built ones. I'm building three sets of wheels (for my CX and roadie) with Novatec hubs and Sapim Race spokes. I can get the spokes only in even lengths (2x0,2x2,2x4,2x6...etc). I've been trying to decide the spoke lengths with the DTSwiss calc and Edd calculator, and I have a few questions regarding them.
I think the basic question is, whether to round up or down? I've been reading about it, some people say to always round up (to have the maximum threads engaged) and other say to round down (to not to bottom out the threads). I'm in Finland, no LBS where to get the spokes so I have to order everything from Germany. Shipping is expensive, therefore I'd rather get everything right the first time.

The wheelset are:
1. Novatec hubs (F:A171SB, R:F172SB), Mavic A319 rims. Front 32h/3x, rear 32h/3x. The two calculators give me (Edd/DTSwiss)
- F:296.4/292.2mm
- NDS 294.9/294.7, DS 293.1/292.9
Should I get the spokes: F 296mm, NDS 294, DS 292?

2. Novatec hubs (F:A171SB, R:F172SB), Mavic CXP33 rims. Front 28h/2x, rear 32h/3x, 14mm nipples. DTSwiss calc takes 1mm off the spoke length due to the longer nipple, edd does not. Spoke lengths then are Edd/DTSwiss:
- F:288.5/288, for this I suppose get the 288mm spokes
- NDS:291,7/291, DS:289.9/289.
Should I round the rear spokes up or down, NDS:290 or 292, DS 288 or 290? If I round down, should I get some 16mm nipples just to be sure?

3. Novatec hubs (F:A291SB, R:F482SB), KinLin XR-300 rims. Fron 28h/2x, rear 32h/3x. Spoke lenghts edd/DTSwiss calc are:
- F:280.2/280.2,
- NDS 282.6/282.5, DS 279.4/279.4.
Same question here as above: F:280mm is the right lenght, NDS 282mm I suppose, but for the DS 278mm or 280mm ?
The erd used is 577mm, has anyone measured the XR-300 and what were your results? I read somewhere that the erd can be 578 or even 579, that would make 278mm DS spokes too short?

What would you do? Any advice is appreciated.

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 5:34 pm
by Weenie

Re: The wheelbuilding thread

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 2:22 pm
by bm0p700f
The ERD measurement will depend on how you measure it. For the XR-300 The 577mm measurment will give you 12mm nipples that just cover the threads. I use 579mm as it gives a bit more egnagement on 12mm nipples without the threads sticking out the top of the nipples. If using 579mm round down though. If using the 577mm measurement round up.

It sounds like you have not measured the rims your self. I would do this as then you get to deside where the threads will dend up in the nipples. Use your mesurements when calculating spoke length this is how expensive and time wasting mistakes are avoided.

2 200mm spokes with 12mm nipples threaded on the end. Screw the nipples so they over the threads and you decide how far down you want them. Measure ERD and then round up or down dpending how close to the top of the nipple the threads are when measuring the ERD.