The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 479
- Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:25 pm
Hi KLabs,
Thanks for the info! The dimensions I had used were from that site, but I started secondguessing it after reading some different dimensions some place else.
It might be safest to just have a measure myself. Will post the dimensions here for future reference.
The h+son archetype is too shallow for my taste. I typically like 40 some mm deep wheels, or deeper is good too.
Thanks for the info! The dimensions I had used were from that site, but I started secondguessing it after reading some different dimensions some place else.
It might be safest to just have a measure myself. Will post the dimensions here for future reference.
The h+son archetype is too shallow for my taste. I typically like 40 some mm deep wheels, or deeper is good too.
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- Posts: 479
- Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:25 pm
I've ordered the h+son formation face yesterday.
42mm deep, 20mm deep, no machined sidewall, 32hole, 615g +-15g
42mm deep, 20mm deep, no machined sidewall, 32hole, 615g +-15g
anyone building with rims that has assimetric holes?
I just put one wheelset together (aluminium tubular . no name, around 380g per rim, 36 holes, shimano 105 hubs)
Wheel is really stiff from both sides. tension on DS is 105kg, on NDS around 60-70kg
Is max spoke tension same as for classic drilling or it is lower becouse of holes moved to side (too much tension could twist rim)?
I just put one wheelset together (aluminium tubular . no name, around 380g per rim, 36 holes, shimano 105 hubs)
Wheel is really stiff from both sides. tension on DS is 105kg, on NDS around 60-70kg
Is max spoke tension same as for classic drilling or it is lower becouse of holes moved to side (too much tension could twist rim)?
Thought i would ask this question here as well as the dedicated thread to try and reach more people who may have the answer i need:
Campy Hyperon Ultra Hub Weights?
I have a set of Campy Hyperon Ultra wheels (1345g) with the stock carbon hubs. The from wheel rim is broken so i now have these sitting around for spares or for a potential future build (not that i build wheels).
I am now riding a set of Techlite Carbon Clinchers (1380g) which have the "ultralight" Novatec Alloy Hubs (Claimed F85g/R245g) and want to know if they are worth a rebuild using my now spare Campy Hyperon Ultra Carbon hubs...........BUT............
Without stripping them down myself i have searched the web for hours to find the claimed weight of the hyperon carbon hubs with no joy at all.
Does anyone know either the claimed or real weight of these Campy hubs and would it be worth rebuilding my Techlites with them?
Any help would be much appreciated
Hyperons: http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/wheels" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... tid_11.jsp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Techlites: http://www.techlitewheels.com/wheels/carbon%20clincher" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Campy Hyperon Ultra Hub Weights?
I have a set of Campy Hyperon Ultra wheels (1345g) with the stock carbon hubs. The from wheel rim is broken so i now have these sitting around for spares or for a potential future build (not that i build wheels).
I am now riding a set of Techlite Carbon Clinchers (1380g) which have the "ultralight" Novatec Alloy Hubs (Claimed F85g/R245g) and want to know if they are worth a rebuild using my now spare Campy Hyperon Ultra Carbon hubs...........BUT............
Without stripping them down myself i have searched the web for hours to find the claimed weight of the hyperon carbon hubs with no joy at all.
Does anyone know either the claimed or real weight of these Campy hubs and would it be worth rebuilding my Techlites with them?
Any help would be much appreciated
Hyperons: http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/wheels" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... tid_11.jsp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Techlites: http://www.techlitewheels.com/wheels/carbon%20clincher" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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- in the industry
- Posts: 5778
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
- Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
- Contact:
Those novatecs you have are the A291SB and F482SB from the weight you have given. Those are not the Super light version.
The A291 SB-SL is 60g and the F482SB-SL is 230g. With these hubs you existing wheels will be 55g lighter.
I doubt rebuilding with campag hubs will save any weight. Also the front hyperon wheel uses 22 spokes. You front novatec wheel will be 20 or 24 spokes. That will end a rebuild right there.
The A291 SB-SL is 60g and the F482SB-SL is 230g. With these hubs you existing wheels will be 55g lighter.
I doubt rebuilding with campag hubs will save any weight. Also the front hyperon wheel uses 22 spokes. You front novatec wheel will be 20 or 24 spokes. That will end a rebuild right there.
It will be very nice if there will be comparison test of cheaper hubs - Novatec, Bitex, Chosen...
against better (DT, Tune,FRM, Alchemy, WhiteIndustries, PMP, Hope...)
or maby is better Novatec Raod Light or Bitex RAR 12(13).
Palnet X has good and very light hubs (in their wheelset 60m alu/carbone)
against better (DT, Tune,FRM, Alchemy, WhiteIndustries, PMP, Hope...)
or maby is better Novatec Raod Light or Bitex RAR 12(13).
Palnet X has good and very light hubs (in their wheelset 60m alu/carbone)
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- in the industry
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:34 pm
- Location: CO
looking at building up some everyday training wheels. never built a set, but have done plenty of truing and I work in a shop so I have all the necessary tools. 20F/24R spokes and brass nipples. hoping to be under 1320grams, but I am not sure with the brass nipples.
I'm 6'1" 160lbs smooth tempo rider, rarely any sprints. I live in flat South Florida and ride on smooth roads 99% of the time. Opinions welcome.
Front: 20H
Hub: Novatec A291SB-SL
Rim: Alpha 340 20H
Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray
will 20H and radial hold up (I know front wheels take very little beating)
Rear: 24H
Hub: Novatec F482SB-SL
Rim: Alpha 340 24H
Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray
Will 24 H and 2x both sides work?
Plan on using brass nipples since it is rather salty riding by the beach/ocean, especially when it rains.
Feel free to offer any suggestions, thoughts, critiques!
Thanks
I'm 6'1" 160lbs smooth tempo rider, rarely any sprints. I live in flat South Florida and ride on smooth roads 99% of the time. Opinions welcome.
Front: 20H
Hub: Novatec A291SB-SL
Rim: Alpha 340 20H
Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray
will 20H and radial hold up (I know front wheels take very little beating)
Rear: 24H
Hub: Novatec F482SB-SL
Rim: Alpha 340 24H
Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray
Will 24 H and 2x both sides work?
Plan on using brass nipples since it is rather salty riding by the beach/ocean, especially when it rains.
Feel free to offer any suggestions, thoughts, critiques!
Thanks
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- in the industry
- Posts: 5778
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
- Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
- Contact:
I think that build could work for you but a 24F and 28R would be more durable.
I think these cheaper hubs come out quite well against more expensive ones. Rolling resistance of high end hubs is often cited as being good - these roll well. All wheels roll well they are round! The rolling resistance of a tyre on tarma is over 100x greater than the rolling resistance in decent hub. Even a rough hub had alot less drag in it compared to the tyre.
I think these cheaper hubs come out quite well against more expensive ones. Rolling resistance of high end hubs is often cited as being good - these roll well. All wheels roll well they are round! The rolling resistance of a tyre on tarma is over 100x greater than the rolling resistance in decent hub. Even a rough hub had alot less drag in it compared to the tyre.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Fri Dec 28, 2012 1:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ok rolling is ok - at FWB blog they said there is only 1-2W difference between good and bad hub bearings.
maby more important is how long will shaft,bearings, freehubs last. What are yours experience?
Tune hubs - against some light cheap (like Bitex Rar09) - are Tune more durable?
Or wich one are the best from Cheaper hubs? Novatec looks very good - geometry and durability (but they are little heavier)
maby more important is how long will shaft,bearings, freehubs last. What are yours experience?
Tune hubs - against some light cheap (like Bitex Rar09) - are Tune more durable?
Or wich one are the best from Cheaper hubs? Novatec looks very good - geometry and durability (but they are little heavier)
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- in the industry
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- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
- Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
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I am not rich enough to have tune hubs. Given the very long life I get out of cheaper cartridge bearing hubs (Miche and Novatec) I am not going to run them either. I have yet to kill any of the bearings or axles in my cheaper hubs so given they are that heavy I will continue to use them.
The cost of white industries, CK, tune and DT hubs is just too much for me personally and many of my customers. 1-2W power saving if it is that much and is not worth the extra cost unless you are a high level TT or racer in my opinion.
However to get good (light) cup and cone hubs the cost of Dura ace is worth it I think. Campag hubs are 32H only now which is a shame.
The cost of white industries, CK, tune and DT hubs is just too much for me personally and many of my customers. 1-2W power saving if it is that much and is not worth the extra cost unless you are a high level TT or racer in my opinion.
However to get good (light) cup and cone hubs the cost of Dura ace is worth it I think. Campag hubs are 32H only now which is a shame.
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Shimano are great for price /quality. Except of weight.
Mostly i use bitex hubs- but now i am looking to Novatec. They have improve them(antibite on frewheel, lowerweight, )
Hope soon they will have 2:1 hole drillings.
Has anyone experince with Pmp and Hope?
Mostly i use bitex hubs- but now i am looking to Novatec. They have improve them(antibite on frewheel, lowerweight, )
Hope soon they will have 2:1 hole drillings.
Has anyone experince with Pmp and Hope?