The wheelbuilding thread

Wheels, Tires, Tubes, Tubeless, Tubs, Spokes, Hookless, Hubs, and more!

Moderator: robbosmans

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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.

If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
addictR1
Posts: 1878
Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:11 am

by addictR1

bremerradkurier wrote:
addictR1 wrote:sorry about the double post.. was using tapatalk. the link works fine on computer but somehow wouldn't open up on my phone. thanks for the info~

i wonder what's the weight of this once it's built?

http://bdopcycling.com/DIY%20Alloy%20Ro ... t%20II.asp


Comparing it to a clincher set with Kinlin XR31Ts with a claimed weight of 1485g for 20/24 with the same hubs and spokes and considering that the TB25s weigh 60 g per rim less, should run about 1365g for the equivalent tubular wheelset.


sweet~ thanks!

Nefarious86
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2014 4:57 am

by Nefarious86

One for the builders.

What is the size of the HEX head on the nipples used in the 188/V9 hubbed Zipp wheelset and what tool is worth throwing my $ at? The numbers online vary from 5.2 to 5.25 to 5.5mm....
Some of the nipples are locked on and was hoping that grabbing the spoke at the nipple with an internal driver on the nipple may crack them before I cut and replace the spokes.

Thanks :)

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by Weenie


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Slowcock
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 2:16 pm

by Slowcock

The question is about tension. Tune hubs limit is 1200Nm, super spokes need tension min 950. Rims are ok. Wheelset for cx/gravel. Is it ok to build with tension 950-1000Nm? My weight is 85 kg.

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Tomstr
Posts: 572
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:04 pm

by Tomstr

Mr.Gib wrote:A question about a new build.

My goal is an affordable 1500 gram road disc wheelset.

I am thinking:
DT 411DB (asymmetric rear)
DT 350 (straight pull front)
DT Aerolight spokes

This for a small woman, so 28 spokes should be plenty.

Any reason to avoid the asymmetric rear rim or the straight pull front.

Also any other better value options out there? Is it a mistake to ignore some of the Chinese options, lightbicycle, farsports, etc?


What option did you go for? I'm looking at the Bdop set too but I'm unsure about two offset rims. For the rear it makes sense but for the front?
Ride it like you stole it

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Mr.Gib
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Location: eh?

by Mr.Gib

Tomstr wrote:
Mr.Gib wrote:A question about a new build.

My goal is an affordable 1500 gram road disc wheelset.

I am thinking:
DT 411DB (asymmetric rear)
DT 350 (straight pull front)
DT Aerolight spokes

This for a small woman, so 28 spokes should be plenty.

Any reason to avoid the asymmetric rear rim or the straight pull front.

Also any other better value options out there? Is it a mistake to ignore some of the Chinese options, lightbicycle, farsports, etc?


What option did you go for? I'm looking at the Bdop set too but I'm unsure about two offset rims. For the rear it makes sense but for the front?


I ended up spending a bit more and buying Industry Nine i25TL Disc. I have a set on my road disc bikr and they have been fantastic. IMO the best 1500 gram option. Price was $900 from Jenson. Keep in mind these wheels are used for winter training duty. Mine have been rock solid. I have changed the outermost bearing for the mountainbike version which have better weather sealing. Industry nine is also terrific to deal with. They actually sent me the bearing for free when I inquired about them.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

Rush
Posts: 362
Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:10 am

by Rush

Can anyone give some advice re: Alchemy ELF bearing replacement? I have the Alchemy toolkit and replacement bearings ready to go but I can't get the old ones out.

The only on-line servicing advice I can find for the ELF is this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tibBzz1cE0A

I've followed those instructions but after tapping the bearings as suggested with a hammer (with a protective nut and a piece of wood to protect the end-cap) they haven't budged. I'm a bit reluctant to go all out and bash it as hard as I can.

Is this the best way to remove the front bearings? Is there an alternative way?

Is it possible that the mechanic who last replaced the front bearings used a lot of loctite on the bearings? I can call them and ask.

Rush
Posts: 362
Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:10 am

by Rush

So I took the wheel down to Dan at Shifter bikes in Melbourne. Dan took pity on my and showed me how to do it in five minutes.

Once he had unscrewed the end cap, he took about one minute to find the right size of draw bolt. He slid it through the inner race until it met the end of the axle and with one gentle tap it popped free (along with the bearing)

It's easy when you have the right tools and know how.

I might put a video on Youtube later when I get the right size draw.

thie
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon May 29, 2017 9:25 pm

by thie

Hi,
I am building my first set of wheels. Opted for Chris King R45 hubs and H plus son Archetype rims, laced them up with CX-Ray spokes and Polyax alloy nipples,
front 28h radial and rear 28h NDS radial, DS 3 cross. I am around 200 lbs and endurance oriented, not a "power rider", so this setup should work
in terms of strength and stiffness, right?

I have two questions with regard to the final tension. The manual for the R45 hub
states that radial lacing is supported but tension should not exceed 90 kgf. If I measure the front wheel with my TM-01 the left side average is 90.56 and
the right side is 90.01, so that's pretty much spot on. Some individual spokes are slightly higher, about 94 kgf, but this should not be a problem right?
(Also I was thinking that in reality the tension is maybe a bit lower anyway because when I measure the spokes they seem to be slightly thicker than 0.9 mm).

My other question is with regard to the rear wheel, the manual says that spoke tension should not exceed 120 kgf. Does this only apply to the DS here?
DS currently averages about 123 and NDS about 62, is that acceptable? (again it is probably lower because of the larger thickness).

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Lightweenie
Posts: 199
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:00 pm

by Lightweenie

I am considering to build a wheelset for the first time and have a hard time deciding on what exactly I should get, so I would appreciate some advice/recommendations.

The wheelset is destined for my commuter/winter-training bike and maybe will also be used my good bike on the rare scenario when I consider alloy clinchers preferable to carbon tubulars. I weigh about 74-75kg and would like wide alloy rims. So far the choices are down to the folllowing:

RIMS: H+SON Archetypes or DT Swiss R 460. I prefer the looks of the first but they are double the price of the 460 and I can't really find some argument that justifies it.

SPOKES: DT Swiss Competition & brass nipples

HUBS: The choices so far are Shimano 105 or Ultegra (cannot really say in what aspects the Ultegra ones are better), Novatec as a light option but I am not sure about bearing quality/maintainance, or as a pricier option DT Swiss 350. There is also the issue of hole numbers here, since ideally I think I would like it to be a 28/24H wheelset but depending on the hub choice I might have to compromise on this (for example shimanos seem to be only 32h or 36h).

Any ideas/recommendations, even beyond my current list would be more than welcome! One other criterion might be the ease of building, since this is my first time.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

R460 are a wider (internally), stiffer and lighter rim that is no Less reliable. Pick the better rim it is not the archteype.. Of course the kinlin xr22t and rt is a better rim in every way than archetype and the r460.

The archetype has one selling point, its 4mm thick spoke nipple bed. If you are 140kg there is no better rim.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Fri Jun 02, 2017 11:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Lightweenie
Posts: 199
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:00 pm

by Lightweenie

Thanks, I had not noticed that the R460 was wider. I guess this only leaves the hub/spoke-count question open now!

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Lightweenie
Posts: 199
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:00 pm

by Lightweenie

...and it will be ultegra 32h hubs. I hope building them will be smooth...

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F45
Posts: 1077
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:08 am

by F45

I would prefer 6800 over 5800. I have a set of both. The 6800 is more polished and is not much more money. Cone adjustment is digital.

bm0p700f
in the industry
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
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by bm0p700f

I would use campagnolo record and fit a shimano body as they are lighter and have bearing cups ghat can be replaced.

shimmeD
Posts: 544
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:52 pm
Location: eNZed

by shimmeD

Maybe a whacky question. Instead of throwing out the whole Campagnolo Proton front wheel (with busted rim) is it advisable/doable to use the 22-hole hub with a 20-hole rim? I'm thinking that the radial spokes may not be perfectly lined up but it shouldn't be too out of whack stress-wise for the rim and the hub (with 2 unused holes), no?
Less is more.

by Weenie


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