The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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Stiffness comes from number of spokes in the wheel, build quality and rim dimensions. Type of spoke is relevant as well, but not as much as the other three things mentioned. With 38 mm carbon rim I'm pretty sure you'll be fine, if the build quality is good. Maybe take the wheels to a good wheelbuilder and ask him to take a look at spoke tension.
Depends on the lube you use.
All spokes will twist if you tension them in alu nipples without lube.
All spokes will twist if you tension them in alu nipples without lube.
syplam wrote:hi i have a 2016 shamal ultra and would like to know if its possible to take out the rim and lace the hub into a FLO 30 rim?
No, the Shamal hub/spoke/rim design is very specific, I would forget about using the hub any other way
cycling / nature / music
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
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Anyone got experience of building wheels with thru-axle hubs? I'm wondering if a specific wheel-building stand needs to be used.
cycling / nature / music
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Miller wrote:Anyone got experience of building wheels with thru-axle hubs? I'm wondering if a specific wheel-building stand needs to be used.
I used 2X Feedback thru axle adapters with a standard quick release skewer to build my new thru axle wheels. Worked generally ok other than some consistency issues clamping the front wheel in place. But I believe that was more due to the loose end caps on my Bitex hub than anything else. I simply compensated for the slight offset and was able to build a properly dished wheel.
A better adapter would go thru both end caps to hold them concentric and I believe that would solve my clamping issue.
HI wheelbuilder !!!
NOt exactly the most WW, but I'm looking for some 13 Gauge spokes for electric bike wheels ( 36H).
What manufacturers are producing them ? I found butted ones: Wheelsmith has a DH13 spoke, Sapim has the Strong, but no luck elsewhere...
Louis
NOt exactly the most WW, but I'm looking for some 13 Gauge spokes for electric bike wheels ( 36H).
What manufacturers are producing them ? I found butted ones: Wheelsmith has a DH13 spoke, Sapim has the Strong, but no luck elsewhere...
Louis
'
ooo wrote:You want non butted 13G?
Sapim Leader (from 11G to 15G)
https://www.bike24.com/p2199951.html
Thanks, ordered them from HOSS asg in the US.
Louis
- MattSoutherden
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- Location: London
What's de rigueur for a fairly light aluminium rim at the moment? I want to build up a set of clinchers to take with the race bike on holiday. Probably go with some Bitex hubs and lasers.
Was thinking about the DT Swiss 411 with asymmetric rear. Anyone know actual real-world weights? Are they really 435g?
Anything better in that range? Worth waiting for the new Open Pro?
I have a pair of xr300s that came off some other wheels. Narrow, but 460g, so anything more than that and I may as well use those.
Was thinking about the DT Swiss 411 with asymmetric rear. Anyone know actual real-world weights? Are they really 435g?
Anything better in that range? Worth waiting for the new Open Pro?
I have a pair of xr300s that came off some other wheels. Narrow, but 460g, so anything more than that and I may as well use those.
Last edited by MattSoutherden on Thu Mar 23, 2017 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
kinlin xr 22
Superstar sells them as ARC22 too
Superstar sells them as ARC22 too
- MattSoutherden
- Posts: 1376
- Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:22 pm
- Location: London
What about the Ryde rims? Pulse Sprint &/or Comp? Sprint & Sprint, or Sprint front and Comp rear? Would save 100g+ over the Kinlins
As I said, this set would really just be for for occasional summer use doing some hilly rides on vacation, and for steeper hill climb races.
I'm 72-75kg, and was thinking of building 24/28 with Lasers on Bitex RAR/RAF.
This was my possibles list - all apart form DCR has asymmetric rear:
Not sure what rim the DCR one is. I found this other one on eBay which seem like it could be the same (with pics)
http://dcrwheels.co.uk/products/dcr-com ... lloy-rims/
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172530797866?rmvSB=true
The Stans ones are quite narrow - less stiff??
As I said, this set would really just be for for occasional summer use doing some hilly rides on vacation, and for steeper hill climb races.
I'm 72-75kg, and was thinking of building 24/28 with Lasers on Bitex RAR/RAF.
This was my possibles list - all apart form DCR has asymmetric rear:
- Ryde Pulse Sprint - 385g, 22x22
- Ryde Pulse Comp - 430g, 23x25
- DT 411 - 435g, 21x22
- Kinlin 22T - 450g, 24x22
- Velocity A23 - 450g, 23x19
- DCR23 - 430g, 23x23
- Stans 340 - 385g, 20x23
Not sure what rim the DCR one is. I found this other one on eBay which seem like it could be the same (with pics)
http://dcrwheels.co.uk/products/dcr-com ... lloy-rims/
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172530797866?rmvSB=true
The Stans ones are quite narrow - less stiff??
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