The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
I don't think that rear hub is any good for triplet. In my mind the only good thing about triplet lacing is the ability to have a huge NDS bracing angle while still maintaining enough spoke tension to keep from going slack. At your weight you don't need to worry about the Non Drive Side spokes going slack. You'll have a better wheel all the way around by using the standard 12/12 version of that hub imo.
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I'd use 2x on the rear. You need the spokes to be sort of tangential for torque transfer and with 1x they're only tangential a little. The torque will still get transfered and you won't be any slower but the spokes will stretch more while doing it and that could lead to reduced longevity.
I have built 1x DS 2x NDS on Bitex hubs and it works ok for me. Building 1x lets me lace the DS heads in for increased bracing angle.
On that front hub I prefer either 1x or heads in. Bitex put a large chamfer on the outside of the spoke holes. If you lace heads out the head sits in that chamfer and that leave the elbow unsupported. Eventually they break. That's my experience (and what I read from Jobst Brandt's book); other people including pro wheel builders say it's not a problem for them so perhaps I did something else wrong.
I have built 1x DS 2x NDS on Bitex hubs and it works ok for me. Building 1x lets me lace the DS heads in for increased bracing angle.
On that front hub I prefer either 1x or heads in. Bitex put a large chamfer on the outside of the spoke holes. If you lace heads out the head sits in that chamfer and that leave the elbow unsupported. Eventually they break. That's my experience (and what I read from Jobst Brandt's book); other people including pro wheel builders say it's not a problem for them so perhaps I did something else wrong.
I have a very similar setup, but 24-28. those rims are too weak for 20+24, but anyway... you have to do radial on the rear non drive side and 2x on the drive side, radial on the front.
google for expocalc spreadsheet to calculate the spokes lengths or send me a message and i will send the file to you.
Questions; where did you purchased the components? do you have a nice cheap source? i´m specially interested in the cn spokes, I've heard they are nice and cheap.
best regards.
google for expocalc spreadsheet to calculate the spokes lengths or send me a message and i will send the file to you.
Questions; where did you purchased the components? do you have a nice cheap source? i´m specially interested in the cn spokes, I've heard they are nice and cheap.
best regards.
Happy Trails !!!
bricky21, Thanks for sharing your opinion. I didn't know that. I'm almost completely blind to this subject.
eric, I've read some things about "torque transfer". The only thing I can say after reading some texts, is that wheel building is the "Nirvana", the "climax" of bicycle mechanics. Ha-ha! I really appreciate your help.
Liggero, I didn't buy the components yet, but I after buying and receiving the products, I will come back here to leave that information to whom it may concern. And thanks for offering help. I will send you a message. Now, I'm thinking in building a F24H_x_R28H. haha! Cruel doubt!
eric, I've read some things about "torque transfer". The only thing I can say after reading some texts, is that wheel building is the "Nirvana", the "climax" of bicycle mechanics. Ha-ha! I really appreciate your help.
Liggero, I didn't buy the components yet, but I after buying and receiving the products, I will come back here to leave that information to whom it may concern. And thanks for offering help. I will send you a message. Now, I'm thinking in building a F24H_x_R28H. haha! Cruel doubt!
then, if you do 28 on the rear, you can go 3x on the drive side.
get a light spokes, otherwise this build will make no sense. those rims are too weak, and too narrow. I would suggest to go with a wider and stronger one, like the new pacenti.
get a light spokes, otherwise this build will make no sense. those rims are too weak, and too narrow. I would suggest to go with a wider and stronger one, like the new pacenti.
Happy Trails !!!
Yes, I think that 24x28 is better. And about the XR-200 rims, I've read that they are not the strongest, but do the job and are durable. What do you think? I see many people using these rims and not complaining about them. But, if you use them and you are telling me that, I must think about!
SET UP:
2 rims = 770g
52 pokes = 234g
52 nipples = 20g
Front hub = 191g
Rear hub = 66g
52 Veloplugs = 8.1g
Total: 1.289g (Not bad, hmmnn?!)
The Pacenti seems to be a good option, but may be more expensive...
I see that there's a difference between "round holes" and "key holes" in the Bitex hubs. Do you know why? Maybe because of the different between round and aero spokes?
SET UP:
2 rims = 770g
52 pokes = 234g
52 nipples = 20g
Front hub = 191g
Rear hub = 66g
52 Veloplugs = 8.1g
Total: 1.289g (Not bad, hmmnn?!)
The Pacenti seems to be a good option, but may be more expensive...
I see that there's a difference between "round holes" and "key holes" in the Bitex hubs. Do you know why? Maybe because of the different between round and aero spokes?
He's 60kg, guys.....the XR200 will be strong enough for him
Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
Keyhole spoke holes are for bladed aero spokes. They make the flange weaker. If you use aero spokes like CX-rays you don't need them- they'll fit through standard size spoke holes.
Jobst Brandt's book is a good reference for wheel building.
Jobst Brandt's book is a good reference for wheel building.
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I'm 80kg and I have no issues with an 28H XR-200 laced 2x with Sapim Laser on a novatec F482 hub. I think I may be at the sensible weight limit for this rim though. At 60kg XR-200 will be more than fine. A 24H XR-200 however is asking for trouble.
I agree about the points made about triplet lacing, it needs a hub designed for it rather than a hub where less holes are drilled in the NDS flange.
I agree about the points made about triplet lacing, it needs a hub designed for it rather than a hub where less holes are drilled in the NDS flange.
Thanks for all comments. I'm still in doubt, so I won't run with that. I'm feather weight, but I have an aggressive style on the road! I like sprinting uphills, jump small obstacles, escape the peloton at full power, etc... So, as I can see, people have a "50-50" comment about these XR-200 rims. Maybe, I will forget them and choose the XR-270 or the XR19W. They're still inexpensive but stiffer and more durable. Beyond that, I train in some rough roads around my neighborhood. The best option wouldn't be the lightest, but the more versatile pair of wheels. I could use the XR-200 without having problems, but I think I should limit my style. Here's the cover of the book written by Jobst Brandt that was recommended by Eric. Must be excellent!
I'm gonna come with news about my choices soon...
I'm gonna come with news about my choices soon...
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@xis- I would advise to be a skeptic of the XR19W. The low tension capacity and weight makes for a pretty soft hoop.
I like the XR270s- they're reasonably light at around 440g and stiffer than other rims around that weight that I have used, such as Open Pros.
But I have cracked some at the nipple holes for the DS spokes. 120kgf is the limit I have been told, 110kgf is safer (assuming the NDS is high enough). I have tried sapim nipple washers on the DS but that doesn't seem to completely crack proof the rim.
But I have cracked some at the nipple holes for the DS spokes. 120kgf is the limit I have been told, 110kgf is safer (assuming the NDS is high enough). I have tried sapim nipple washers on the DS but that doesn't seem to completely crack proof the rim.
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