The wheelbuilding thread

[Gmuze]

Thanks for the explanation. But can't imagine generating that much power that my spokes go slack. So if I understand this properly, to prevent your NDS spokes from going slack you increase the stiffness on the DS. But I guess this is not necessary if you choose a higher spoke count (stiffer wheel) than necessary.

Any suggestions for which spokes to combine? I guess I could combine Sapim Race (NDS) and Laser (DS), but I'm afraid I might run into issues with spoke twist and complicate my first build.

[pushstart]

Honestly, at your weight and with those spoke counts it won't matter. I weigh 175 lbs and have 15k miles on a set of 28/28 disc wheels with CX-Rays spokes. No maintenance/truing; no issues.

So use Lasers all around. Make little tape flags on the spikes so you can see the wind-up and unwind them as you tension. It is not hard. Or do D-Light spokes (but that will affect budget).

[bm0p700f]

If the wheel is properly tensioned, stress relieved and tensions are even spokes wont go slack on the proposed build. I am alot hevier than and have lower spoke count wheels with thin spokes both sides and spokes dont break, the does not flex either.

To increase lateral stiffness the thicker spokes should go on the nds really as it would have the biggest effect there. The reason for putting the thicker spoke on the drive side is the increase torsional stiffness, radial stiffness and lateral stiffness. The first two are increased more on the ds ( due to the lower bracing angle) so that improves life of all spokes in turn.

You are light a 20f/24r wheel set with the kinlin xr31t or the lighter xr22t will be fine for you if properly built.

[Kristof047]

After truing, repairing and the build of a trekking set, I'm giving it a try for my first road bike wheelset.

Purpose of the build is a cheap, light, somewhat aero aluminium set for going uphill on longer climbs as fast as possible.

So set up:
- Kinlin XR200 24hole front, 28hole rear
- Powerway R13 hubs (24/28)
- Silver Sapim Laser spokes, Sapim Race on DS rear wheel
- Red aluminium nipples
- Yellow Veloplugs
- Continental Supersonic innertubes (these are freaking thin!!)
- Michelin Pro4 Service Course 20mm front, 23mm rear (narrow rim deserve narrow tyre)
- Trivio Quick releases

Front wheel is finished, final weight off 860 gram all inclusive. Looking good so far, but will wait to test ride when the rear is finished.

[mrlobber]

Thinking of a rebuild of my old Zipp 404 Firecrest tubulars with different (more reliable ) hubs.

Since there is a simultaneous opportunity to make the set lighter, I was looking at Tune 45/150 combination, which is available in the required 16/20 drilling for the rims.

Is this a good idea or better simply use DtSwiss or WhiteIndustries? What spoke pattern to tell the builder to use for the rear wheel? (if there even exists other choice than the one Zipp was using)

[addictR1]

My farsport got cooked. Can I reuse the cx ray spokes with the hub and build it on another rim?


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[Marin]

If the rim has the same ERD and spoke hole count, yes.

[whosatthewheel]

Thinking of a rebuild of my old Zipp 404 Firecrest tubulars with different (more reliable ) hubs.

Since there is a simultaneous opportunity to make the set lighter, I was looking at Tune 45/150 combination, which is available in the required 16/20 drilling for the rims.

Is this a good idea or better simply use DtSwiss or WhiteIndustries? What spoke pattern to tell the builder to use for the rear wheel? (if there even exists other choice than the one Zipp was using)

Most likely (if they are old) your rear will have a radial drive side, which is incompatible with any hub on the market, so that will have to change to a 2 cross. The NDS can be radial or 2 cross. I might open a can of worms, but I don't find Tune a step up in reliability. DT Swiss and White Industries are more reliable IMO

[mrlobber]

Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, my Zipps are model year 2011 (a year before Zipp introduced the "Beyond Black" colour scheme).

Why did I consider Tunes? I happen to have 2nd hand Enve 6.7's built on Mig40/Mag150, so far they've been very reliable for me as race and fast training wheels (5000+ km's). Of course, n=1 only

[addictR1]

If the rim has the same ERD and spoke hole count, yes.

What's ERD? And is that specified by rim MFG?

[whosatthewheel]

If the rim has the same ERD and spoke hole count, yes.

What's ERD? And is that specified by rim MFG?

Basically it's the diameter of the rim, from the point where the nipple sits inside the rim to the opposite equivalent. Often manufacturers quote an ERD, but there are so many different ways of measuring it, that rarely the numbers they quote work to calculate the accurate spoke lenght you need. Best thing is to measure it yourself, there is plenty of literature around on how to do it (or ask a reliable source)

[bm0p700f]

wheel builders never trust a printed or published source of ERD's they are often wrong.

[Kristof047]

Finished the Kinlin xr-200 wheels and did a test ride this morning. Very positive surprised about the ride quality! Didn't notice any lack of stiffness as sometimes reported on these rims (more a souplesse climber then a power sprinter and about 70kg so probably that helps).



Question, working on another wheelset (DT Swiss R460, Sapim Race/Laser mix, Miche Reflex/Shimano Tiagra hubs). When lacing the rear wheel I noticed my spokes are oriented a little different then before (re-used the hub from an older wheelset, just needed a freewheel replacement). You can see it on the hub holes where the previous spokes did some cosmetical damage in the other direction. Is this something I should worry about?

[Calnago]

On your second set of wheels you're asking about... personally, I would have laced them in the same pattern as they were originally laced... 3x, pulling spokes heads in and let the new spokes follow the already bedded in lines. I just think you would have ended up with a much nicer looking product and the 3x pattern cuts across much more flange material on this low flange hub, lessening the chance of failure there. Instead it looks like you went 2x with pulling spokes heads out. As long as the areas where the previous spokes have bedded in haven't created an area where the new spokes could possibly move around in and be a bit sloppy you should be ok and hopefully the flanges will hold up over the long term. Curious as to why you changed things up there so much from the original build?


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[Kristof047]

Thanks. Still learning, so mistakes are possible

The Hub is from a system wheel. Went with 2x cross because it is 28 holes. And tought 3x was not possible. Apparently it was 3x cross before indeed. No specific reason for changing the lacing direction of the heads in/out spokes. Just followed my course instructions and only noticed afterwards.

It doesn't seem to interrupt with the bedding of the previous spokes. I think it would when doing cross 2 in the original pulling heads in direction.