The wheelbuilding thread

Wheels, Tires, Tubes, Tubeless, Tubs, Spokes, Hookless, Hubs, and more!

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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.

If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Crescent
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:54 am

by Crescent

No film or shrink wrap, which would have solved one of the problems of the brake surfaces scuffing. If they were all wrapped together they wouldn't move relative to eachother, and if they were individually wrapped, there would be something separating the brake surfaces. As it is, a few rims have scuffing deeper than the machining, which seems like it would cause galling.

They just sort of dumped 8 bare rims in a 10 rim wholesale box and stuffed some not quite adequate paper filler in the corners.

I take it the rims shouldn't even be 1mm out of flat then since you would expect a true wheel to be less than 1mm out of true?

Anyways, thanks, this information is very helpful.

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kavitator
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Location: Slovenia---that forest land

by kavitator

How calculated spoke length for straight pull?

I end with too short spokes

HUbs: DT 350 straight pull road 24h front, 28 h rear
Rim: H + Son Archetype

i use wheelpro spoke calc and get this:
Image

by Weenie


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kavitator
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by kavitator

DT calculator gives for rear hub 301mm

where is a catch ?

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I have found the DT calculator spot on when I do straight pull builds with DT disc brake hubs (man I love these). I have some Miche straight pull hubs to build up and I have used the flange PCD taking the diameter from the base of the hole for the spoke in the "flange". However this may not work. Here is a thread

http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/whe ... 15807.html

ERD of the archetype rim in 593mm by the way. I will investigate some more.

Orfitinho
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2013 3:25 pm

by Orfitinho

The DT straight pull hubs has the spoke holes not even distributed around the circumference of the flange, they are pairwise drilled.
Wheelpro calculator is not able to calculate spokes for these hubs.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

The DT Swiss hubs may use a non interger crossing like 3.8 (that's what I have worked out for a recent build with 350 disc brake hubs and aileron rims) not sure why it's not 3x (but the above post expains why quite neatly) this complicated my forthcoming builds with the miche hubs.

Fortunatley I have a few lengths of staight pulls now so I can simply lace up and guess the correct length.

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kavitator
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Location: Slovenia---that forest land

by kavitator

I will take this as good thing - when built with DT i will use DT calculator.

Thanks for replys guys

Orfitinho
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2013 3:25 pm

by Orfitinho

kavitator wrote:I will take this as good thing - when built with DT i will use DT calculator.

But you should be aware, that the DT calculator wants the ERD measured from nipple seat to nipple seat. Whereas the wheelpro calculator wants the ERD measured from the bottom of the slots of the nipples. This usually makes a 3 mm longer ERD.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Well I use the proper way of measuring ERD (wheel pro way spocalc way) and with the DT Swiss calculator the length come out perfect which says something about the calculator.

djay001
Posts: 89
Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:59 pm

by djay001

Crescent wrote:Thanks, that's what I was thinking. Maybe they ship things different for wholesale, but when I mail order, I usually expect some sort of packaging on every individual item so they can't touch other items, or at least bound together with tape or a zip tie so they can't move, plus filler in a box.

On a glass surface, the rim rocks and lifts up a a few? millimeters when you press one side down, which seems a little excessive to correct with truing to me. I haven't actually gotten a chance to measure it though. Not sure where the cut off between acceptable and unacceptable is without lacing up the wheels and trying to tension them, and since I know this package was damaged, I'm not keen on building up a wheel just to see if it will work, and possibly risk any chance of replacement or refund because I used it.

I have also placed an order after seeing your post on the price of these rim.

I have received my order in the same packaging as you. I was skeptical with the box on hand, because i was hearing the rim touching themself.
But the box was in good condition and the rims seems all fine, no brake track scuff, etc.

I received these on friday and i will get an other box today, i hope that this one will be fine too. If not, paypal is there for you, or the store can probable ship you an other rim for replacement.


I can say that this is not every store that ship rims like that, i have bought lot if rims from BHS and his packing is flawless. Same box type of wheelmfg but a round cardboard is over the rim and all rim are in some bubble wrap individually.

Crescent
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:54 am

by Crescent

Hope your second box arrived safely. My box being hit with something hard enough to crush a rim probably has something to do with the scuffs too. It's unfortunate because if they just took some care in handling their products, it wouldn't turn into a problem. I should be getting a replacement for the crushed rim, but some of the stuff they're saying really leaves a sour taste in my mouth. I don't think I'll be ordering full priced stuff from them, and if I need wheels MFG stuff, I'll order through Amazon or LBS.

epiphanyboz
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2014 4:03 pm
Location: UK

by epiphanyboz

I have just built a light weight fixed rear wheel using a modified Tune King disc front hub. I use a chain tug on the RHS so I can use quick release skewers on my fixie, which made the hub conversion fairly straight forward.

My frame has 120mm frame spacing while the front hub is 100mm. Also, the rear dropouts are for a 10mm diameter axle while the front hub came with 9mm QR fitting. I therefore needed to increase the hub width by 20mm and provide for 10mm QR fittings. My chainline meant the spacers on each side needed to be identical length. However, it would have been easy enough to make one spacer longer and the other shorter to accommodate a different chainline.

The parts are made from 7075 T6 aluminium alloy, which I got as 25mm diameter bar off eBay. The hub itself didn’t need modifying, apart from removing the 9mm QR fittings. These are designed to be removed as the the hub can also be used with a 15mm through axle in a suspension fork. Once the 9mm QR fittings are removed, you are left with a 17mm OD, 15mm ID axle, which is 96mm long. Therefore the spacers need to add 12mm to each side to produce the 120mm frame spacing.

The Tune hub axle is a plain tube and therefore a method is needed to take up any side load and prevent the hub moving along the axle. This is achieved by sliding rings over the Tune axle so they sit between the inner bearing race on the hub and the spacer. In this way, the side load is taken up in the same way as with the original 9mm QR fittings. The Tune website has service instructions for the King hub which shows the hub with 9mm QR fittings removed.

The finished hub and spacers weigh 143g. It is built into a 28-spoke NoTubes Alpha 340 rim (weight with stickers removed = 384g). Spokes are Sapim CX-Ray (131g) with 12mm DT Swiss aluminium nipples (9g) for a total wheel weight of 667g.

I use a ‘disc cog’ sprocket from velosolo in the UK, which mounts directly to the 6-bolt disc mount. I chose the nickel-plated steel version as I use the bike in the winter but they do an aluminium alloy version that will save a few grams. The sprocket is ‘tuned’ by removing excess material with a Dremel. The mounting bolts are M5 x 10mm taper head Titanium. The tuned sprocket and bolts weigh 40g in total. So the total weight of wheel, sprocket and mounting bolts is 707g. It is paired with sub-600g front wheel that uses a Tune Mig road hub, making for a lovely and light pair of fixie wheels.

I have done about 1,000 miles on the wheels so far without any problems and I am very happy with the result. :D I have some photos and a diagram of the parts needed for the hub conversion but as a new forum member, I can’t upload any images. :noidea:

jooo
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am

by jooo

Sounds like a cool bit of work.

Just host your images elsewhere.

aerobikewheels
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 11:00 pm

by aerobikewheels

I am building a rear wheel, with radial lacing NDS and 2x cross drive side.
For the non drive side, can i use heads in lacing?

The hub will work with radial lacing NDS but can't find info on heads in or heads out, i prefer the first one, to make the flange effectively a little wider.
What are your opinions?

by Weenie


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bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Unless you have and NDS flange 32mm from centre in which case buy another hub don't bother. If the flange sits at 38mm from centre the don't do it as NDS tension will drop more making the wheel more likely to go out of true. The only reaon to NDS radial is 1) in triplet lacing 2) if the rim is drilled for it. Other wise don't.

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