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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 12:46 pm 
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Location: Vienna Austria
Looks as if they could be too long, but you won't find out until you tighten them


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Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 12:46 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 2:02 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
tension them spokes do that but straighten out when tensioned.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 12:04 pm 
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Posts: 5
thanks everyone for your responses. I've finished the build now so time to go riding and see if they hold up. They certainly look more normal now but i'm still not 100% convinced i've got them right.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 8:24 am 
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I've just built up some kinlin xr31's with cx rays and i'm having trouble with the final spoke tension. The wheels are true and spoke tensions pretty even in the 125kgf for the ds. Dish is pretty well perfect. This is my first build and the spoke tensions seem way too low by feel. I can move the spokes pretty drastically with my hands and in comparison to other wheels i have (all with different spokes) they just feel so much softer. When i mounted tyres the tension dropped by around 25kgf and the spokes seem allarmingly loose.
When building the wheel i had no trouble with spoke wind up. Is this an indication i'm not there yet with tension? Should i throw my park tm-1 in the garbage?

Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:58 am 
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Location: Vienna Austria
I'd go by feel and just use the TM to equalize the tension.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:09 pm 
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Posts: 110
You will struggle to measure accurately CX-Ray with the Park Tool meter. You need a meter well calibrated for those... ideally the Sapim one.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:17 am 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
struggle the TM1 with CX-rays is useless. you wont even get a reading on the nds from what I remember. your going to be plucking spokes.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 1:21 pm 
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Thanks everyone. Ive gone by feel and my 'gut' is much happier. Time will tell i guess. Thanks very much for the quick replies.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:08 am
Posts: 851
Making a portable tension calibrator is super easy.

All you need is some 2x4 wood, some threaded hooks and other hardware, and a 300kg fish scale. I built one for about $80USD.

If you want to be fancy, weld up some tubular steel. But it's not necessary.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:03 pm 
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Posts: 850
Quick question regarding asymmetrical rims. If you're building a discwheelset with asym. rims, as far as I understand from the below pic, on the rear wheel you need to have the fat side of the rim on the cassette side. How about front rim? Would you build it with a symmetrical rim? Or would you pic asymmetrical rim as well and place the fat side on the disc side?



Image


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:56 pm 
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Location: Vienna Austria
For disc front asym, wider side disc side, yes.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:39 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Except with dynamo disc hubs they are symmetrical.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:37 am 
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Thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:23 pm 
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Posts: 8
Hi, i want to build carbon wheels for my Canyon endurace CF SL 9 disc. I choose a (tubeless) clinchers for a practical reasons. Hubs will be DT swiss 350 straightpull and spokes will be DT aerolite, 24/24h.
I decide between 35mm depth and 45mm depth.
actual wheels: 1810g/set, 460g/rim
a) 45mm wheels: 1585g/set, 470g/rim
b) 35mm wheels: 1530g/set, 435g/rim
How much is noticeable different weight of the rims during acceleration and "out of the saddle" ride? 45mm is moore aero for flats and 35mm is lighter for steep uphills. My training itinerary are lot of flats with steep uphills :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:02 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2017 1:33 pm
Posts: 7
Same width? The weight difference is miniscule but the aero benefit will also be marginal. Honestly I doubt you could realistically perceive a difference between the two rims.

The 45s will look better though. So I'd go with those. =D


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Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:02 pm 


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