The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Leloby, I'd say the volume of dangerous materials is very low when handling spokes and stuff.
I'm a welder by proffesion, and I can tell you now that there's no such thing as an old welder, just dead.
But seriously, if you can imagine how much dangerous material you come into contact with when you're talking about vapour and fumes compared to just handling relatively stable metals like stainless..there's not much to worry about.
Well...maybe for me, but you'll be fine.
I'm a welder by proffesion, and I can tell you now that there's no such thing as an old welder, just dead.
But seriously, if you can imagine how much dangerous material you come into contact with when you're talking about vapour and fumes compared to just handling relatively stable metals like stainless..there's not much to worry about.
Well...maybe for me, but you'll be fine.
Pedalling Law Student.
Cheers.
I am handling 20% Cr spokes day in, day out - just wondered. My kidneys are in bad enough shape without this added threat
Recently I noticed these guys in white suits and respirators behind security fences on the new M77 motorway not too far from here. Turns out the whole place is awash with Cr(VI) but the crazy thing is, only feet away and quite possible downwind from them are people pushing prams and getting on with life completely anaware. Whats the deal there?
Top-tip of the day: Always measure the length of your CX-Rays as sometimes they can measure up to 1.5mm less than they say they are.
And they don't stretch much.
I am handling 20% Cr spokes day in, day out - just wondered. My kidneys are in bad enough shape without this added threat
Recently I noticed these guys in white suits and respirators behind security fences on the new M77 motorway not too far from here. Turns out the whole place is awash with Cr(VI) but the crazy thing is, only feet away and quite possible downwind from them are people pushing prams and getting on with life completely anaware. Whats the deal there?
Top-tip of the day: Always measure the length of your CX-Rays as sometimes they can measure up to 1.5mm less than they say they are.
And they don't stretch much.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
Leloby wrote:Top-tip of the day: Always measure the length of your CX-Rays as sometimes they can measure up to 1.5mm less than they say they are.
Tip of the day should be to always measure all of your components: Rim's from a different batch can have a different ERD, hub manufacturers will make a change to the flange dimensions between runs, and spokes can arrive in boxes of "assorted lengths" depending on where they ship from.
It sucks to waste an hour of your time because you didn't spend 5 mins checking first
Tristan
Wheelworks.co.nz
New Zealand handbuilt wheels
New Zealand handbuilt wheels
I am getting ready to start building a set of Edge 45 clinchers with CX-rays and DT 240 hubs. 20 radial front, 24 2X rear. Edge gives a 30 kg tension range for the various positions. How do you determine where to shoot for in the range?
I posted this in another topic, but might interest you gusy as well:
I have never been a fan of factory built wheels, but a few month ago I got 14 pairs of used Shimano wheelsets (4 different models), thrown away by a continental team. All of them have some kind of a problem: eg. cracked rim, destroyed freehub body, bad bearings, broken/bent spokes. The challenge was to put together as many well-functioning wheels from the 14 sets.
Actually I succeeded in making 8 sets. Out of the original 14, 6 pairs were the new lacing types (not crossed, drive side radial). These have wider spaced flanges, more dish, and even thogh they have 20 spokes, I believe they are structually weaker than the older crossed 16 spoke configuration. Since I was 2 well-functining freewheels/bearings short of the 8 wheelset, I attempted the make use of my NOS Shimano 105 7-speed hubsets - so I installed these on one WH-R560 and one 550 type of wheelsets.
Result: I can install 9 cogs from a 10-speed cassette (12-23 instead of 11-23), the rear wheels are 200% stiffer due to less dish (the rim was moved 5,3 mm to the right), a 105 kg rider was unable to make it come out of true during 3 amateur races + 1500 km training. I think the experiment was successful, maybe other can have a go at it too!
I have never been a fan of factory built wheels, but a few month ago I got 14 pairs of used Shimano wheelsets (4 different models), thrown away by a continental team. All of them have some kind of a problem: eg. cracked rim, destroyed freehub body, bad bearings, broken/bent spokes. The challenge was to put together as many well-functioning wheels from the 14 sets.
Actually I succeeded in making 8 sets. Out of the original 14, 6 pairs were the new lacing types (not crossed, drive side radial). These have wider spaced flanges, more dish, and even thogh they have 20 spokes, I believe they are structually weaker than the older crossed 16 spoke configuration. Since I was 2 well-functining freewheels/bearings short of the 8 wheelset, I attempted the make use of my NOS Shimano 105 7-speed hubsets - so I installed these on one WH-R560 and one 550 type of wheelsets.
Result: I can install 9 cogs from a 10-speed cassette (12-23 instead of 11-23), the rear wheels are 200% stiffer due to less dish (the rim was moved 5,3 mm to the right), a 105 kg rider was unable to make it come out of true during 3 amateur races + 1500 km training. I think the experiment was successful, maybe other can have a go at it too!
I have a dt 240 hub in 28h that I was thinking about building 2x nds and 1x ds (heads in) due to the narrow center to flange measurement of 16.8mm. Thoughts? I've seen builds on the forum where this pattern was used with a 24h wheel but have not seen it with a higher spoke count. Initially I'm hesitant because the smallish flange diameter of the hub and the fact that the spokes will not be very tangential. Also, any problem with rear derailleur/spoke interference? Saw that ergott used a spacer with tune/campy combo but the flange on the dt is narrower. thanks
It really just depends on the spoke length - I don't like this pattern on round spokes on the drive side, it only works well with bladed CX-Rays or Aerolites. You ideally want the flats to cross and not the round section - this is a matter of luck really as you will notice that the round end of the spoke varies in length quite a bit between different lengths of CX-Ray spoke. Sometimes it can be quite long in shorter spoke lengths.
I have used it successfully in 28h with a Cadence Aero 30mm rim and DuraAce hub but I don't think it was any stiffer than 2x both sides.
Do some experimenting and try it out.
I have used it successfully in 28h with a Cadence Aero 30mm rim and DuraAce hub but I don't think it was any stiffer than 2x both sides.
Do some experimenting and try it out.
CTiride wrote:I have a dt 240 hub in 28h that I was thinking about building 2x nds and 1x ds (heads in) due to the narrow center to flange measurement of 16.8mm. Thoughts? I've seen builds on the forum where this pattern was used with a 24h wheel but have not seen it with a higher spoke count. Initially I'm hesitant because the smallish flange diameter of the hub and the fact that the spokes will not be very tangential. Also, any problem with rear derailleur/spoke interference? Saw that ergott used a spacer with tune/campy combo but the flange on the dt is narrower. thanks
I wouldn't do this with a DT hub regardless. If you want a stiffer wheel, use a heavier gauge spoke. The aero losses on a rear wheel is real small and the gained stiffness is better than a lighter wheel that you don't want to ride on.
-Eric
dlight wrote:Has anyone tried and used the four sided spoke wrench from park?
I use a 4 sided Park wrench when the tensions get high. The "loop" needs to be bent back so I have clearance for a spoke holder, and having nipples and spokes that aren't in a straight line... but other than that it is fine.
-
- Shop Owner
- Posts: 1315
- Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 10:28 pm
- Location: Arizona
Any shop that wants to order these needs to call 618-393-2955. That is the distributor for Unior tools.
Top tip: If you aren't in a rush to complete your wheels, leave them to simmer overnight at 50% tension or so and come back to them the next day. It gives them a little rest.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I don't race. I weigh 127 lbs. I currently have a wired powertap pro with all aluminum shell (no Carbon window) laced with 32 spokes. Without skewers it weighs 1379 g. Would it be ok to lace my 32h powertap to my rim which is 16 h Alta aluminum clincher about 27 mm deep. If it is ok, what spokes should I use and how should I lace it? If it's not advisable then what weight savings would I get if I lace it to a 24 hole aluminum clincher such as Kinlin XR-200? Thank you.